| Author | Message | ||
| the_mule
Member Username: the_mule Post Number: 87 Registered: 1-2004 |
I sure hope anyone (Mica, Val?) can tell me more about this short scale Series I. Strangely enough I can't seem to find a serial # on it, except for '1937' written with a felt-tipped pen on a pot and another part of the electronics (inside the electronics cavity). The bass has a birdseye maple top and back, is battery powered (behind the round plate at the back) as an alternative to using the external power supply and the trussrod cover has 'Series 1' engraved in it (don't think that's original, but I'm not sure, maybe worth mentioning). I'm very curious about the age, specs etc. of this fine specimen!  BTW: the story of 'how, when and where' and more beautiful pictures than this will follow later! (Message edited by the_mule on June 06, 2004) | ||
| effclef
Intermediate Member Username: effclef Post Number: 178 Registered: 1-2004 |
That LED doesn't look original, and the pickup selector switch has been covered by a plain plate. I know Mica had said that people have done that before - usually when moving the selector to the more current position near the other controls. But the LED doesn't look stock. Can you shoot another photo of the whole body and headstock? Looks like the strap button has been moved further up the neck. So far it looks like a "modified" Alembic, can't say for sure if it's S1 until we see more! EffClef | ||
| bsee
Intermediate Member Username: bsee Post Number: 109 Registered: 3-2004 |
Did you look for a serial number on the top/end of the headstock, or try to flip the truss rod cover to see if it was engraved on the back? | ||
| 811952
Intermediate Member Username: 811952 Post Number: 182 Registered: 10-2003 |
My '81 Series I is #1952, so I would hazard a guess that this bass is from 1981 as well. More info and pictures of the knobses would help a great deal. If it is an '81, then perhaps it's been back to the mothership to have the trussrod cover recessed and the end shaved-off the fingerboard to better accomodate slapping and popping. The serial number would otherwise be found at the end of the fingerboard just beyond the 24th fret. ??? John | ||
| the_mule
Member Username: the_mule Post Number: 88 Registered: 1-2004 |
Here's some better pictures, showing the entire bass...    (Message edited by the_mule on June 06, 2004) | ||
| davehouck
Senior Member Username: davehouck Post Number: 620 Registered: 5-2002 |
A very nice looking bass! The plot does thicken; there is no pickup selector switch. The hum adjustment trims in the brass cavity plate would seem to suggest that it is indeed a Series I. I'm guessing that switching to a volume/pan configuration is not a simple procedure and that the bass must have been sent back to Santa Rosa; perhaps the modification was done when the bass got an electronics upgrade. And perhaps that's when the modifications John pointed out were made. Have you determined what the LED does? The engraving on the truss rod cover looks vaguely familiar; perhaps this bass was listed on Ebay at some point. | ||
| 811952
Intermediate Member Username: 811952 Post Number: 185 Registered: 10-2003 |
The LED looks to be right about where my master volume is. I can see someone having the pickup selector moved if they were an over-the-end-of-the-neck popper, so that would kind of jive with the recessed trussrod cover bit. The plot thickens.. Nice looking bass, by the way... John | ||
| bsee
Intermediate Member Username: bsee Post Number: 110 Registered: 3-2004 |
What if they didn't swap it to volume/pan, but rather just hard-wired it to both pickups always on? I would expect that the filters and Q switches still do what they used to, but I wouldn't count on much more than that at this point. One would hope that major surgery would have been done by capable people, but with the connectors on the electronics, it could have been done privately. Has this bass been plugged in to see what the controls do? Does it sound as good as it looks? | ||
| the_mule
Member Username: the_mule Post Number: 89 Registered: 1-2004 |
Thanks for the interesting and useful comments already! Tomorrow I'll be able to test this baby more elaborately & get back to you about the sound and the controls. The story behind this instrument (short version): I purchased it in a Dutch pawn shop for the equivalent of $1000. There's no external power supply, it seems to have undergone a few modifications during its lifetime, but besides that it's in good condition and you'll agree on this: it looks absolutely wonderful! I seriously consider restoring it, probably with the help of Edwin van Huik, maybe even by temporarily returning it to the mothership. But right now I'm just dying to know what the 'A-files' say... | ||
| mica
Moderator Username: mica Post Number: 1713 Registered: 6-2000 |
Check the fingerboard carefully - I'd expect the serial number to have beens tamped directly on the fingerboard below the 24th fret. It will take some time to try and cross reference the harness checkout number (the handwritten number you found on the pot) to a serial number, and it may not lead us to the serial number in the end. Even if it looks like there's no number, check the board at a very low angle and you may be surprised to find a number there indeed. It will take more than a week to locate the old checkout records and attempt a cross reference. Sorry, no A-files until we know the serial number. | ||
| mica
Moderator Username: mica Post Number: 1714 Registered: 6-2000 |
Uh-oh... I just looked at the photo closely - and it appears when the truss rod cover was installed the end of the board was chopped off! If we did that job, you'll probably find the serial number in the electronics cavity. If we didn't do that, then the serial number may be lost. Let's hope we can cross reference the checkout number! | ||
| the_mule
Member Username: the_mule Post Number: 90 Registered: 1-2004 |
Hi Mica, I will certainly check the fingerboard again, just in case, but you might have noticed that there's hardly any room there at all? I want to thank you beforehand for the effort, please don't let it interfere with more important work, I'll be patiently waiting for some news... Regards, Wilfred | ||
| the_mule
Member Username: the_mule Post Number: 91 Registered: 1-2004 |
Well Mica, strange things happen when there's a time difference involved! I hadn't seen your second message when I posted my reaction to your first. It looks like a neat job, but indeed there isn't much left of the fingerboard below the 24th fret. I'll search again very carefully and make some 'intimate' pictures of the different cavities today. Maybe it'll help to solve the mystery. But indeed: fingers crossed for the cross reference of the checkout number! Thanks again, Wilfred | ||
| adriaan
Advanced Member Username: adriaan Post Number: 254 Registered: 6-2002 |
Wilfred, did you check for any numbers stamped into the side of the top of the peghead? To the left of the point you would see the year, serial nr would be on the right. Bird's eye maple top on mahogany, no accent laminate - that's so very basic and also so very pure. Refined, that's the word. You're serious about the pawn shop? Gatverdakkie - you're one lucky gozer. | ||
| pace
New Username: pace Post Number: 8 Registered: 4-2004 |
That's an amazing bass Mule..... imho perfect in a lot of ways.... enjoy it! | ||
| the_mule
Member Username: the_mule Post Number: 92 Registered: 1-2004 |
Hoi Adriaan, yes, I have looked everywhere, used the reference pages for every possible location, but the serial number seems to be lost because of the modification John and Mica described before. And yes again, I'm very serious about the pawn shop and the price I paid. I was very lucky to hear about it hanging there before anyone else seriously interested AND willing to pay the price (it's dead cheap for a Series I, but still a lot of money for many people) could get a hold of it. I'm not sure about the core wood being mahogany though, in real it looks much more 'chocolate-ish', at least compared with the mahogany body of my Orion.  BTW: here's an 'intimate' picture of the electronics cavity. You can see the number '1937' written in blue/purple. Unfortunately the bridge pickup doesn't work. I have tried the 4-way (?) pickup selector switch that was still lurking in the dept, but no luck there. Some questions for other Series I owners: Does this cavity look reasonably undisturbed to you? Should I be able to solve the problem of the failing bridge pickup without sending the bass to Santa Rosa by the looks of this? I will certainly show it to Edwin van Huik, maybe he's able to locate the problem and solve it quite easily... | ||
| dela217
Advanced Member Username: dela217 Post Number: 384 Registered: 6-2002 |
Just some of my thoughts on this bass...... To me it does not look like your average small standard. It seems that the tailpiece and bridge are further back in the body. This bass could be a long scale, which would explain why the strap button on the back of the bass was moved. There is also a handwritten number on the PF6B circuit card. These numbers are the serial number of the card (I think) and will not be the same as the bass, but in the neighborhood. If you are not using a power supply, this bass may be one of the ones that was wired as stereo and not mono. So, if you plug a standard cable in, you will only get one pickup. A good way to test both pickups is to swap the wires on the circuit board. I would move the connector with the red dot on it to the position of the one with no dot. By the way, the one with no dot on it should have a blue dot on it. It must have been peeled off. I think you just need a power supply. I would but the pickup selector to it's proper position. I think the bass is an 80 or 81. Michael | ||
| the_mule
Member Username: the_mule Post Number: 93 Registered: 1-2004 |
Michael, thanks for your imput, really interesting and very helpful. Maybe the 'damage done' isn't so serious after all! BTW: the number on the circuit card is also '1937'. To me the bass surely feels like a short scale (lower string tension). My Orion is 34", my EvH is 32" and this bass feels really different. But, only the 'A-files' can tell for sure! I already wondered about those red connectors. Should they come off quite easily? I don't want to break anything. To test both pickups, should I switch the red one with the blue one, or just leave the blue one off? Hmmm, a power supply for sale isn't something you see every day. I'll be on the lookout for one of those then... Anyone? | ||
| bsee
Intermediate Member Username: bsee Post Number: 112 Registered: 3-2004 |
A tape measure will tell you the scale as well, no need to rely on the card. | ||
| effclef
Intermediate Member Username: effclef Post Number: 180 Registered: 1-2004 |
Mule - measure from the nut to the 12th fret, and then double it. 34, 32, or 30.5" is probably what you'll come up with. Interesting that the pickup selector is still there, stuffed inside the cavity. The positions should be: off, bridge, both, neck. The connectors are just slip-on ones and should be easy to take off and swap over. The center cord comes from the dummy humcanceller in the middle and that stays where it is. One thing that hadn't been suggested: make sure the trimpots (the screwdriver adjustments which you see on the back plate) for the pickup volumes are up. That could be why one doesn't work, if it is not the pickup itself, or the 1/4" jack being stereo as was suggested. I think that would be the two OUTSIDE adjustments. The two inside ones are for cancelling out the hum. EffClef | ||
| the_mule
Member Username: the_mule Post Number: 94 Registered: 1-2004 |
Just to prevent me from making a mistake: scale lenght = distance between nut and tailpiece? | ||
| the_mule
Member Username: the_mule Post Number: 95 Registered: 1-2004 |
Wow, this topic is really going faster than I can write, sorry about that! | ||
| adriaan
Advanced Member Username: adriaan Post Number: 255 Registered: 6-2002 |
Scale is the length of the string that vibrates, so between nut and bridge. 34" = 86,3 cm 32" = 81,3 cm 30.75" = 78,1 cm Because the bridge saddles are adjusted for intonation, the proper measure is from the nut to the 12th fret (which by definition is halfway) and then you double the outcome. | ||
| adriaan
Advanced Member Username: adriaan Post Number: 256 Registered: 6-2002 |
By the way, mahogany can have different shades. This mahogany is about the same shade that my Epic has. | ||
| the_mule
Member Username: the_mule Post Number: 96 Registered: 1-2004 |
EffClef, how does the adjustment of the trimpots work? Up = out (turning anti-clockwise) or the other way around? | ||
| effclef
Intermediate Member Username: effclef Post Number: 181 Registered: 1-2004 |
I am not sure, but if you stay away from the two toward the middle, you'll be OK for now. They only turn a little less than ONE TURN, not multiple turns. Anyway, with whichever pickup works sounding in the amp, turn one and then the other outside one and you'll find which one matches. I am guessing, however, that it's wired for stereo at the 1/4" jack, and that the real issue is that if you use a mono cord, the long ground shell on the plug is shorting one pickup output to ground when you plug it in. If you have an electronics store nearby, go find an adapter: stereo plug to mono jack. So the end which plugs into the bass will be stereo, and it will tie the proper neck and bridge signals together to make a mono output jack for your mono cable. However, this will only work if the pickup selector switch is in the BOTH position. Turn it all the way clockwise, then back off one notch. At that point, if both pickups are working, you should hear both of them added-together-in-mono. EffClef | ||
| dela217
Advanced Member Username: dela217 Post Number: 385 Registered: 6-2002 |
Another thing to do for diagnostic purposes is that you can plug a set of stereo headphones in the jack and see if you can hear both pickups. One in each ear! | ||
| the_mule
Member Username: the_mule Post Number: 97 Registered: 1-2004 |
Thanks, I know what to do, try & maybe buy this weekend! | ||
| dela217
Advanced Member Username: dela217 Post Number: 387 Registered: 6-2002 |
If you bass is wired stereo, Alembic can supply a schematic to convert it to mono and your troubles are over. But I would still recommend a power supply. The series basses use batteries quickly. | ||
| 811952
Intermediate Member Username: 811952 Post Number: 188 Registered: 10-2003 |
The power supply is a rather simple-to-construct item if you don't *need* to have the real deal. I think it's plus 9 volts and minus 9 volts to the bass, with unbalanced stereo audio back down the cable. I believe I saw a schematic posted here somewhere a few months ago, and I'm sure Dave Houck probably knows which thread. You could build one or have one built to get you by until you could acquire the real thing, and I'm sure Edwin probably knows where to scrounge one on your side of the world. I think these things are only supposed to last a maximum of 35 or 40 hours on a pair of batteries (batteries essentially being for emergencies), so it really is worth getting a power supply. Once again, nice bass. Looks like a mahogany core to me, and short or medium scale at longest. As for the pots on the back, if I recall I run mine (Left to Right) full - centered - centered - full. The center two are for the negative-feedback hum-canceller circuit, and while you will find yourself tweaking them a bit occasionally, mine usually end up pretty nearly dead-center. It appears that they function more like a balance control between the appropriate pickup and the hum-canceller than purely as a hum-canceller level pot. And yes, plug in a pair of stereo headphones and you should hear wonderful, pure, stereo Alembic joy... John | ||
| the_mule
Member Username: the_mule Post Number: 98 Registered: 1-2004 |
A little but important update. Great news, both pickups are in working order, the test with the stereo headphones was a succes! And it's definitely a short scale instrument, the tape measure can't be wrong! And John, your advice about the trim pots on the back proved very useful, and yes indeed, all the tweaking resulted in full - centered - centered - full for me also! I'm very thankful to be part of this great group of people, the support and interest is absolutely mindblowing... | ||
| 811952
Intermediate Member Username: 811952 Post Number: 189 Registered: 10-2003 |
You may find you need to back off the trims for the pickups if you find you're overdriving your preamp. Otherwise, I like keeping the signal relatively hot from the source... John | ||
| davehouck
Senior Member Username: davehouck Post Number: 622 Registered: 5-2002 |
This looks like it: http://alembic.com/club/messages/393/7261.html And this thread looks useful as well: http://alembic.com/club/messages/449/8450.html | ||
| bsee
Intermediate Member Username: bsee Post Number: 114 Registered: 3-2004 |
Looks like you're a stereo/mono adapter cable away from being ready to play for real! Either that, or you need to locate an external power supply and the associated cable. What a fabulous deal you have now that you understand that everything works! Heck, if you decide you don't love the bass, you can easily double your money. | ||
| the_mule
Member Username: the_mule Post Number: 100 Registered: 1-2004 |
Well, the great deal and potential profit is one thing, but I really love this bass. It happens to be almost identical to the custom order I've had in mind for a long time. I like to believe this bass was destined for me to pick it up... | ||
| the_mule
Intermediate Member Username: the_mule Post Number: 101 Registered: 1-2004 |
Another update: after some searching around the local music store made me a 1/4" stereo jack to 1/4" mono jack cable in about two minutes. The pickup selector switch is in the BOTH position, just as EffClef advised, and the result is fabulous! The windows rattled severely when this baby sang for the first time using both its pickups! Now all that's left for me to do is patiently waiting for news from the 'A-files'. In the meantime I'll be looking around for an external power supply, and maybe, just maybe a stereo cable and a second amp to enjoy the bass in stereo...(!) | ||
| effclef
Intermediate Member Username: effclef Post Number: 186 Registered: 1-2004 |
Hey, great. I was going to suggest making a cable but I figured finding an adapter would be easier. Now I guess you can decide whether to leave the selector tucked inside the body (if you find a switch in the normal horn place in the way for slapping and popping). Sounds like you've figured out the hum-cancel trimpots, too, great! Hopefully the factory can track down the serial number from the date codes - if nothing else, to make sure it's not a stolen bass. Enjoy it! EffClef | ||
| the_mule
Intermediate Member Username: the_mule Post Number: 106 Registered: 1-2004 |
This thread has really been a crash course in 'experiencing the Series I' for me. A warm 'thank you' to everyone who contributed! And EffClef, your last remark is bang on. I'm still a bit concerned about it being a stolen bass, although the store in case has a good policy of finding out if there's something wrong with the items they buy and sell. I specifically asked the saleperson about this subject before any money had changed hands. They are located one street away from the local police station actually! But still, as I said, I'll keep my fingers crossed, hoping to hear something from Mica or Val soon... | ||
| effclef
Intermediate Member Username: effclef Post Number: 188 Registered: 1-2004 |
Well I hope it doesn't turn out to be stolen. It must have a very interesting history. The engraved plate - Alembic made special Epic basses for Guitar Center, apparently, with engraved plates, and that's the only time I've seen that (on Ebay). I wonder what the LED is supposed to indicate. Is it on when you plug in the 1/4" cord? The extra strap button hole is a pain but maybe not - since it's already been done, you can try it in both places, I suppose. Even if you have to pay for a new cable and DS-5 or DS-5R, your price from the pawn shop was good enough that you're probably still in "bargain" territory after that. Was there a case? EffClef | ||
| the_mule
Intermediate Member Username: the_mule Post Number: 111 Registered: 1-2004 |
I expect the LED to light when the 5-pin cable is connected and/or the DS5(-R) power supply is turned 'on', but that'll have to wait to be confirmed (still have to find both). No case, but even at more than 3 times the price I paid, it would've been an incredible deal, especially in this part of the world. Mica/Val, please forgive me for asking maybe too soon, but is there any news about harness checkout number '1937' yet? | ||
| the_mule
Intermediate Member Username: the_mule Post Number: 118 Registered: 1-2004 |
No news yet? In a week or two (max) I'd like to take 'Birdy' to Edwin van Huik to treat her (and myself) to a cable, DS5 power supply and a new set of strings. I've looked, searched and asked around myself, and at this moment I'm 99,99% sure that she's not a stolen instrument, but I just hope that'll be confirmed before I invest that kind of money in her. If there's definitely no chance that the serial number will be found, I'd appreciate to hear that also... Thanks & best regards, Wilfred | ||
| the_mule
Intermediate Member Username: the_mule Post Number: 125 Registered: 1-2004 |
Mica, I send you a personal e-mail about this 4/5 days ago. Could you or Val please confirm that '80 1562' or '82 2401' (from the list of stolen Alembics) aren't my bass? - early 80's Short scale Series I - Small standard body, crown peghead - Birdseye maple top and back - Purpleheart (?) neck laminates - Mahogany body - Schaller tuners - Engraved 'Series 1' truss rod cover - Pickup selector switch 'hidden' in the electronics cavity, replaced with plain brass plate I have planned to go shopping next weekend for the DS5, cable and a new set of strings, and if it's not too much trouble, I'd love to hear from you soon! Thanks & kind regards, Wilfred |
