| Author | Message | ||
| fungke
Junior Username: fungke Post Number: 44 Registered: 7-2004 |
Hi guys, I've kinda interested in a early Series One that up for grabs on eBay. However, I'm not entirely convinced that it's genuine. Can someone help me out? Here's some pictures that the chap very kindly sent me. What concerns me is that is bass seems to have a different bridge design and only a single trust rod.    It also appears that the bass doesn't come with a power supply or instrument cable. Can I still use the bass, via the 1/4 inch jack, without the supply? Also, in terms of sound, how does this differ with the later series basses. Are the earlier models just as versatile? One last question, probably more for Mica or Val, can the hardware (bridge and nut) be updated? Thanks and Regards, Andy. | ||
| poor_nigel
Intermediate Member Username: poor_nigel Post Number: 157 Registered: 7-2003 |
Hey Andy. Looks genuine to me. Old bridges were different than modern ones. They also came with a single truss rod. I do find a second truss rod an important enhancement over a single. Using batteries on a series model will be costly, from what I have heard, as they use a lot of power. I only put batteries in mine for the convenience of using the tuner, or similar circumstances, without having to turn on my whole setup. See the threads on upgrading to modern electronics, unless you live in a rural setting, to let you know that this bass could cost you $1,500+ to use hum free. Something you need to consider, if it would be used professionally. Adjustable blank nuts are @ $35 and I am sure you can buy a new bridge, but then it takes away from it being a 'vintage' Alembic. However, I am quite curious at the price of a new bridge, so I will look for to an answer on this one. Note, to have Alembic do the nut, it will probably cost @ $250+ for the nut, shipping, and labor. You can look up threads for making your own five-pin cable, and if you are moderately proficient in building electronics, you can build your own power supply. Members and staff have supplied 'blue prints' for these. Otherwise, cords are $195 and power supplies (Rackmountable) are over $400 now ($425, I think). Other expenses you need to consider in the purchase of this bass. I am not trying to talk you out of the bass, just trying to give you an idea of the final price you may be looking at, depending on how the bass is used. Bottom line - Something is only worth what someone is willing to pay for it. I hope this helped a bit, and others can give you more definitive answers, I am sure. (Message edited by poor_nigel on September 06, 2004) | ||
| davehouck
Senior Member Username: davehouck Post Number: 821 Registered: 5-2002 |
Andy; '76 models only had the single truss rod; and the bridge in the picture looks typical for a '76. And yes, you can play a Series bass without the cable and power supply; however, they do run through batteries pretty quickly. Also, I believe the '76 basically has the same electronics as the later years; so yes, it would be just as versatile. edit> Whoops, I got tied up on the telephone and didn't realize that Nigel had aleady answered everything. (Message edited by davehouck on September 06, 2004) | ||
| mrben
Junior Username: mrben Post Number: 13 Registered: 6-2004 |
Just some minor observations but the bass looks very curiously set-up, with the D and G strings wound the wrong way around the tuners and the bridge wildly angled to give presumably a monstrously high action on the lower strings. I can't believe the seller is a serious player. On a different note I can vouch for the fact that both the 5 pin XLR lead and the PSU are both very simple to make if you have a little ability with a soldering iron... I've made leads and completely rebuilt an early Series 1 power supply. Neither cost more than a modest amount to make if you're prepared to do the elbow work. Oh, and unless you own shares in Duracell regular use of the 9V batteries could become an unsustainable habit! A small health warning, if you're not certain about your electronic skills you might not want to subject the circuits of a newly acquired S1 to your early experiments in soldering.... | ||
| fungke
Junior Username: fungke Post Number: 45 Registered: 7-2004 |
Hi guys, Thanks for all your advice, I really appreciate it. I might just wait for the right one to come along. If I was to find a good example late seventies model, what sort of money should I expect to pay for an complete, good condition example (original case, power supply and cord)? I'm thinking sorta £800 - £900 ($1400 - $1600) ball park? There's one on eBay at the moment which is going for about £1500 ($2600). It was owned by James LoMenzo. I don't think it's worth that and it's not the nicest looking thing. Thanks and Regards, Andy. P.S. I noticed the weird set-up. Something smells fishy about this one. I'll think i'll leave it alone. | ||
| bsee
Advanced Member Username: bsee Post Number: 251 Registered: 3-2004 |
I think you'll be waiting a very long time if you're looking to pay that money for one. I doubt you'll ever see one in nice shape for under £1500. I haven't seen one in good shape go for under $2K US, and $2500 is a more typical price range. For some reason, they are significantly more expensive on your side of the Atlantic. The difference is usually about the difference in exchange rate, so there must be some serious tariffs involved in addition to the shipping costs. If you're looking for a bargain, your best bet is going to be the mobilization of the European Alembic club team to look for instruments at local dealers and pawn shops. I think that's where you might be able to locate the kind of deal you're looking for. I guess what I am saying is that it's nice to have a price goal, but that you shouldn't let a great player's bass that fits you go by for a couple hundred in price difference. There aren't that many, and you could easily wait a year trying to find one at the price you want to pay. Good luck!!! -Bob |
