| Author | Message | ||
| nachogomez
New Username: nachogomez Post Number: 1 Registered: 3-2008 |
Hello everyone! I have an Orion Bass 6 ordered in December '98 and received in '99. I've been using it moderately in Valencia, Venezuela (hot and humid weather) since then. A few years ago, the back of the neck started feeling sticky, even if I clean it with the Ken Smith Pro Formula it still feels sticky and with the time it has become a little bit annoying to play the bass. I don't know if this is some kind of finish added to protect the wood of the neck from sweat or moisture. Something I've noticed is that this finish can be easily scratched with the fingernail and even it could be removed if scratched enough. Also, the back of the neck is now a little bit yellowish compared to the back of the headstock. I'll try to take a good picture of these parts when I get home. Another thing I've noticed is that you can feel the different laminates in the back of the neck when you sweep your fingers through it, I've read elsewhere (I believe it was in this forum a few years ago) that this use happens around 10 years after manufactured and can be just sanded away by a good luthier or even by Alembic. By the moment I'm just concerned about the stickiness of the back of the neck, is it possible to fix this? or, is it necessary to refinish it? Thanks in advance for any advise/help you can provide me Regards Nacho | ||
| nachogomez
New Username: nachogomez Post Number: 3 Registered: 3-2008 |
Here are the pics of my bass, I didn't realized how difficult is to take a picture that shows the color difference between the back of the neck and the back of the headstock (I'm a lousy photographer)  Here you can see that the neck is yellower that the headstock (Is not different lightning, this is the picture closest to reality that I could have taken)  Another angle of the same part  I've discovered this whitish stains near the 17th fret, I don't know what they are  Full picture of my Bass  A closeup of the wenge top laminate Again, thanks in advance for any help/info you can provide to me... Nacho (Message edited by nachogomez on October 09, 2013) | ||
| groovelines
Senior Member Username: groovelines Post Number: 760 Registered: 4-2003 |
Hi Nacho and welcome to the club. That's a nice Orion. A refinish is always an option. Personally I would first try a different polish. I don't use any of the polishes named in this link, but it may give you some ideas. Ken Smith's polish is described in the article. I had the same experience with the necks of my Alembics. Never bothered me enough to worry about it once I knew it was to be expected as the bass aged. Oddly enough, on one of the basses it became a way for me to tell if my thumb was in the right spot along the length of the neck. It may seem like a drastic idea, but a light sanding with a very fine grit sanding paper might be an other solution. Take care to not expose the wood. If that doesn't satisfy you then visiting a luthier might cure all of your concerns. best of luck, Mike | ||
| lbpesq
Senior Member Username: lbpesq Post Number: 5558 Registered: 7-2004 |
I've given several of my guitars a satin finish on the neck using 0000 steel wool. You should first mask the rest of the instrument as the pickups will attract small pieces of the steel wool. A light rubbing is usually all that's required. You'll will find the satin finished neck to be much faster than a shiny finish. Bill, tgo | ||
| neyman
Intermediate Member Username: neyman Post Number: 130 Registered: 7-2002 |
I had the same problem with my Orion 5 string. A couple of passes with 0000 steel wool and problem solved! | ||
| nachogomez
New Username: nachogomez Post Number: 4 Registered: 3-2008 |
Hey folks, thank you very much for your responses. Mike: Great link about polishes, I didn't know anything about the Ken Smith formula but it seems to be pretty innocuous according to Ken's description, although I'm not sure if the finish of my bass is oil based so maybe in this case is worth trying another type or brand. I'm going to explore the sanding options carefully, I'll let you know what I ended up doing. Bill & Neyman: Good advise, thanks. I think the 0000 steel wool is a good option to start, I think it'll be less abrasive than most sand papers. BTW: Does anyone know what is the standard finish for Alembic's necks? Or at least for Orions? Again, thank you very much for your advices and for sharing your experiences with me. Regards... Nacho | ||
| groovelines
Senior Member Username: groovelines Post Number: 761 Registered: 4-2003 |
There you have it: steel wool would be better than sand paper. My Orion had an all-over satin finish. Faster feel on the neck, as Bill alluded to. The other two had a glossy finish. They did feel slower, more "drag" if you will. Also the drag was more pronounced when the temperature was up and my hands were sweaty. I guess you could call that "sticky". | ||
| mica
Moderator Username: mica Post Number: 8029 Registered: 6-2000 |
I'm more inclined to use the 0000 Scotch Brite as small little shard of the steel can fly everywhere, including your electronics cavity. Just really be careful if you go the steel route. Also, the finish on the Orion from that year is polyurethane all over and VERY thin. It won't take any time at all to bust down to the wood so again, go slowly. On the edge near the 17th fret, is it possible that finish is chipped or worn down to the naturally whiter color of the wood? | ||
| lbpesq
Senior Member Username: lbpesq Post Number: 5560 Registered: 7-2004 |
Mica is right about the little steel wool shards - that's why I mask off the entire body first. I haven't heard of the 0000 Scotch Brite - I'll have to try that next time. Thanks for the tip, Mica! Bill, tgo | ||
| nachogomez
New Username: nachogomez Post Number: 5 Registered: 3-2008 |
Good tips Mica, thanks... I'll try to do that this week end. On the edge near the 17th fret, it is a little bit worn down, I've just realized this is the place where the bass stand touches the neck, I'll have to take special care of this part. Do you have any recommendation to prevent this from getting bigger? By the moment I'll adjust the height of the stand. Thanks, Nacho... (Message edited by nachogomez on October 11, 2013) | ||
| funkyjazzjunky
Senior Member Username: funkyjazzjunky Post Number: 887 Registered: 5-2007 |
What other company has one of the owners help a client with a 15 year old product! Alembic rules | ||
| nachogomez
New Username: nachogomez Post Number: 6 Registered: 3-2008 |
You are completely right Funkyjazzjunky! Alembic has an outstanding support over any other company I've worked with!!! Thank you so much guys!!! | ||
| davehouck
Moderator Username: davehouck Post Number: 11201 Registered: 5-2002 |
I always put a polishing cloth on the stand where it touches the neck. | ||
| nachogomez
New Username: nachogomez Post Number: 7 Registered: 3-2008 |
Mica, Sorry to bother you again, but I'd like to know if these are the pads you've mentioned above and if not, if this will do the job Thanks again! Nacho | ||
| keith_h
Senior Member Username: keith_h Post Number: 1911 Registered: 2-2005 |
Nacho, You are referencing Steel Wool. This would not be recommended as it can leave metal tailings on the pickups. I think Mica is referring to this or something similar. They come in different grits. Here is a chart I found online for the various pads. SCOTCHBRITE GRIT CHART 3M Scotch Brite Nylon Pads: 7445 - White pad, called Light Duty Cleansing - (1000) 1200-1500 grit 7448 - Light Grey, called Ultra Fine Hand - (600-800) 800 grit. 6448 - Green (?), called Light Duty Hand Pad - (600) 600 grit 7447 - Maroon pad, called General Purpose Hand - (320-400) 320 grit 6444 - Brown pad, called Extra Duty Hand - (280-320) 240 grit 7446 - Dark Grey pad, called Blending Pad (180-220) 150 grit 7440 - Tan pad, called Heavy Duty Hand Pad - (120-150) 60(?) Blue Scotch-Brite is considered to be about 1000 grit. (The value inside the parentheses is directly from 3M.) 3M Chart Less Aggressive --------> More Aggressive 7445 7448 6448 7447 6444 7446 7440 Finer Finish --------> Coarser Finish | ||
| nachogomez
New Username: nachogomez Post Number: 8 Registered: 3-2008 |
Hey Keith, thanks for posting Since the picture states it is synthetic steel wool I think it is the same as the 7445 or maybe the 7448 but in different package, maybe the 7445 is a little bit lighter than the one I posted according to this. Also, I've read the customer ratings and they say it doesn't leave particles and shards after use I was looking to buy a smaller package than the box of 20 pads because I think after giving the finish I want to the neck of my Orion the rest of them will be be laying around without much use On another related topic, what is the function of the polyurethane finish on the back of the neck? It is just for aesthetics? or, is it really necessary in order to protect the wood? Again, thanks Keith and all for posting Nacho | ||
| artswork99
Moderator Username: artswork99 Post Number: 1913 Registered: 7-2007 |
Nacho, I saw the same thing on the packaging where it stated Synthetic Steel Wool and waiting for verification. Good find you guys! Art (Message edited by artswork99 on October 17, 2013) | ||
| keith_h
Senior Member Username: keith_h Post Number: 1912 Registered: 2-2005 |
Oops. Missed the synthetic and only saw the "steel wool". Oh well if I could see I wouldn't wear glasses. Keith | ||
| artswork99
Moderator Username: artswork99 Post Number: 1914 Registered: 7-2007 |
8) | ||
| hammer
Senior Member Username: hammer Post Number: 422 Registered: 9-2009 |
Just a heads up if people have not used the 3M Scotchbrite pads before. I've used the stuff for a long time for a wide variety of purposes. Although the shards left are not metal and thus less likely to end up in the electronics cavity, as with any abrasive product they do in fact leave residue (although not of the metal variety) which can end up in places in which one does not want it. | ||
| lbpesq
Senior Member Username: lbpesq Post Number: 5568 Registered: 7-2004 |
Like I said, masking is your friend. Bill, tgo |
