| Author | Message | ||
| hammer
Senior Member Username: hammer Post Number: 578 Registered: 9-2009 |
I've used flitz metal polish on my brass bridges and other brass parts for years. Do people also use it on their frets? I recently purchased a 6-string Europa that is quite dirty. | ||
| sonicus
Senior Member Username: sonicus Post Number: 3658 Registered: 5-2009 |
I love Flitz !!! __However ___ I would stay away from using Flitz from any large open wood surface that is not sealed by a finish! I personally would not use it on my frets . I have used Flitz on my metallic side dots (silver/brass/aluminum) But with caution and great skill with ONLY less then a drop on the end of a Q-TIp. I then used the lemon oil treatment on the entire finger board afterward. I make the usual disclaimers . Results may very as to your technique. | ||
| lbpesq
Senior Member Username: lbpesq Post Number: 5837 Registered: 7-2004 |
I'd mask off the fingerboard with painters tape first. Then the Flitz should do the job without any getting on the wood. Bill, tgo | ||
| sonicus
Senior Member Username: sonicus Post Number: 3659 Registered: 5-2009 |
Yes , what Bill wrote also crossed my mind . If you do that regular masking tape would not be ideal however. It comes in different grades . The BLUE tape with the lowest mastic rating or the highest performance and safest GREEN 3M 401+ MAY be OK. http://solutions.3m.com/wps/portal/3M/en_US/Adhesives/Tapes/Products/~/3M-High-Performance-Green-Masking-Tape-401-?N=5471778+3294262915&rt=rud DO this at your own risk. Usual disclaimers. | ||
| sonicus
Senior Member Username: sonicus Post Number: 3660 Registered: 5-2009 |
That link did not paste correctly on this server but you can select 401+ in the 3M menu search , or just google 3M green tape 401+ (Message edited by sonicus on October 04, 2014) | ||
| sonicus
Senior Member Username: sonicus Post Number: 3661 Registered: 5-2009 |
In my opinion I would just use a soft cloth and lemon oil and rub the frets with precision finger pressure. In my own personal experience that has been very effective to beautify a sadly neglected situation of even a high degree. My single pickup Distillate was a dirty bird when she flew to me with tarnished frets and tarnished everything. Lemon oil with finger pressure worked swell on nasty frets and she now sings like a pretty bird ! all proud and clean ___ You can cover the fingerboard as per tape protection suggestions but you will HAVE to do a VERY precise job or you risk undesirable consequences and it will take up a bit of time to do it right. DOES the bass need a fret dressing ? That opens up another set of variables for when that is done ! | ||
| pauldo
Senior Member Username: pauldo Post Number: 1286 Registered: 6-2006 |
Would using 600 - 800 grit emery paper (with judicious care) and lemon oil, very lightly on the frets be bad? | ||
| keith_h
Senior Member Username: keith_h Post Number: 2093 Registered: 2-2005 |
I would try using the white Scotch Brite pads with some lemon oil. Keith | ||
| hammer
Senior Member Username: hammer Post Number: 579 Registered: 9-2009 |
Thanks for the suggestions. The frets do not need any dressing per say, they just appear as is the finger was never wiped off after playing. I've always been a take the least aggressive route first kind of guy so I think ill do the following. 1) Tape off finger board with 3m painters tape (I get it free because I'm friends with one of the 3m chemical engineers who developed it). 2) lemon oil and finger rubbing 3) if #2 fails to work, lemon oil and white scotch brite pads (free given #1 connection. 4) if #3 fails, flitz liquid polish with taped off finger board. I've found the liquid to be a lot less abrasive than the paste 5) Emory paper. I'll let everyone know how far I needed to go to get good results. | ||
| sonicus
Senior Member Username: sonicus Post Number: 3662 Registered: 5-2009 |
When I did the lemon oil and precise finger pressure bit , I did not cover the frets. All went well with that. Just want to mention that to you . Congratulations on the new Bass . | ||
| lbpesq
Senior Member Username: lbpesq Post Number: 5839 Registered: 7-2004 |
Another method is to use Nevr-Dull. It's a type of wadding infused with polish. Works great on cars and most metal parts, including guitar hardware. It's sort of like cotton candy. You pull a little out of the can and rub stuff with it. I've used it on frets, after masking, and obtained great results. And it's very controllable. Bill, tgo (Message edited by Lbpesq on October 04, 2014) | ||
| sonicus
Senior Member Username: sonicus Post Number: 3663 Registered: 5-2009 |
I have also used Nevr-Dull on various metal items. It is indeed very controllable as Bill writes above. I have used it on various metal items. This product has been around for a long time ! Good one Bill ! | ||
| gtrguy
Senior Member Username: gtrguy Post Number: 793 Registered: 9-2004 |
Here is the esay way that I have done for decades and used on many an vintage instrument: Get a can of WD40 and spray some on a rag and clean the frets with it, then get a clean rag and wipe it off. It works and it does not harm anything. | ||
| edwin
Senior Member Username: edwin Post Number: 1842 Registered: 5-2002 |
I don't think I want Flitz or WD40 on my fingerboard. But I do use Flitz on my headlights. Polishes them right up. | ||
| gtrguy
Senior Member Username: gtrguy Post Number: 794 Registered: 9-2004 |
Been doing WD40 on vintage guitar fretboards that I have for over 40 years now with no problems. I always get people who don't like the idea. It will clean the frets and remove gunk from the wood. You just have to put it on the cloth and wipe it all off the guitar when done. | ||
| bigredbass
Senior Member Username: bigredbass Post Number: 2247 Registered: 9-2002 |
I'd suppose once a year, I'll mask off the fingerboard between the frets (and down the sides of the fingerboard where, essentially you only see the frets poking out of all this blue tape) and I'll go at the frets with fine steelwool. They go right back to really bright really fast. I typically don't develop 'ruts' in the frets, but the ever-so-slight amounts of metal I'm removing would head it off, anyway. Then I'll pull all the tape, and since the fingerboard is string-less at this point, then, it's lemon oil time. I've used the Nev'r Dull on the brass bits, never tried the frets. Great stuff, but you have to keep wiping the black residue off the brass bits for a while to get it all off. Would not be inclined to use Flitz for frets, as I have rotten luck with paste-y compounds finding all kinds of grain pores that until then I never knew were there . . . I'd bring up something else. Usually as part of the lemon oil routine, I'll run a toothpick under each side of each fret to remove the residue of God-Knows-What that tends to build up there. Usually can't find toothpicks that stand up to ebony and steel, so I use those bamboo skewers they sell at the grocery stores. Much stronger, holds their point way better, I've used them to 'refill' the screw holes on guitars with them and Gorilla Glue to re-start a new screw. Like I said, much stronger. J o e y | ||
| sonicus
Senior Member Username: sonicus Post Number: 3664 Registered: 5-2009 |
Here is the MSDS(material safety data sheet ) for WD40 http://www.wd40company.com/files/pdf/msds-wd494716385.pdf | ||
| growlypants
Intermediate Member Username: growlypants Post Number: 103 Registered: 3-2011 |
As an aside, once I sneezed while playing, and the next day...a stain on the 22nd fret wire!! Lemon oil, over time, removed the NaCl!! | ||
| lbpesq
Senior Member Username: lbpesq Post Number: 5842 Registered: 7-2004 |
Nuclear snot! hehehehe Bill, tgo | ||
| sonicus
Senior Member Username: sonicus Post Number: 3665 Registered: 5-2009 |
HI Dan (growlypants)____ Salty sneezing ? As per NaCl ? ( Sodium Chloride AKA table salt) | ||
| hammer
Senior Member Username: hammer Post Number: 583 Registered: 9-2009 |
After removing the strings from my recently purchased Europa the frets appeared even more dirty than I initially thought with a bit of rust thrown in. Lemon oil alone didn't work that well nor did the scotch-brite pads. However, Wolf and Bill's suggestion to use Nevr-Dull was right on. Easy to use and extremely controllable. Frets shined so brite I got a load of crap from keyboardist at yesterdays practice about the lights shining off the frets blinding him. The bridge cleaned up quite well with some Flitz I had hanging around. However, I did notice that both the tailpiece and brass block appeared pitted and no amount of rubbing had any impact . I don't mind the block since one doesn't see it but I'm open to suggestions regarding what to try next with the tailpiece or what people think would be the cost of a replacement. | ||
| mica
Moderator Username: mica Post Number: 8295 Registered: 6-2000 |
The tailpiece and block probably have a clear polyester coat on them. It looks great for about ten years. You can remove them from the bass and sand off the coating then polish them up real nice and shiny. | ||
| hammer
Senior Member Username: hammer Post Number: 584 Registered: 9-2009 |
Thanks Mica! Any suggestions as to what to use as far a sanding grit? | ||
| growlypants
Intermediate Member Username: growlypants Post Number: 104 Registered: 3-2011 |
Sonicus - (Regarding my salty snot...) Hey, it was clear when it went on, I guess!! But the next day, I had this milky white mark on the fret wire which did NOT wipe right off!! I assume it was due to salt corrosion of some sort, but again - it eventually disappeared as I'd lemon oil the neck periodically. Now, if I sneeze, I do it my elbow! | ||
| lbpesq
Senior Member Username: lbpesq Post Number: 5843 Registered: 7-2004 |
I've restored an Alembic tailpiece that was in terrible shape - looked like it had spent a few months at the bottom of the ocean! I used Flitz with a dremel tool. After I polish any brass parts, I rub on a very thin coating of Alberto VO5, an old hair care product that was big in the 60's. I apply with my fingers and wipe off with a soft cloth. I really helps the brass stay shiney longer. Bill, tgo | ||
| 5a_quilt_top
Advanced Member Username: 5a_quilt_top Post Number: 374 Registered: 6-2012 |
+ 1 for Nevr-Dull (didn't know that was the product name, BTW). I've had a wad of that stuff in my instrument care tool box for years. A small piece rubbed using a light touch works amazingly well for polishing frets. Now I know its name - thanks Bill! Also, I've seen special gloves made of lightly abrasive material that are used for polishing jewelry, one of these might also work. | ||
| hammer
Senior Member Username: hammer Post Number: 586 Registered: 9-2009 |
What did you use on the dremel tool? and did you use this to take off the clear coat or with the Flitz to remove the tarnish (P.S. I think this bass may have been a companion to your at the bottom of the ocean). | ||
| lbpesq
Senior Member Username: lbpesq Post Number: 5844 Registered: 7-2004 |
I used polishing brushes and lots of Flitz. I think the clear coat was long gone. When I did the bridge, I took everything apart and did each piece individually. I got new screws from Alembic. It took a while, but it worked. Here's a thread - pics at the bottom: Epic clean-up Bill, tgo | ||
| hammer
Senior Member Username: hammer Post Number: 587 Registered: 9-2009 |
Okay. Mine doesn't look half that bad. From now on Ill never again question whether you are exaggerating anything. |
