| Author | Message | ||
| pizzareah
New Username: pizzareah Post Number: 1 Registered: 12-2005 |
Hi all I just purchased a 1994 Essence 5 (my first Alembic - hurray!). I'm pretty comfortable doing setups, but one thing has me a little confused. Since I don't know what adjustments have been made to the truss rods over the years, I was wondering if there was a 'neutral' position from which I can start. Thanks! | ||
| richbass939
Senior Member Username: richbass939 Post Number: 494 Registered: 11-2004 |
Gregory, welcome to the club and congrats on getting your first Alembic. There is some really good setup info in the FAQ/Must Read section of the club (top of the first screen). Rich | ||
| pizzareah
New Username: pizzareah Post Number: 2 Registered: 12-2005 |
Hi Rich - Thanks for the suggestion. I did go through all of the FAQ's and Must Reads prior to posting, but I didn't see anything that addresses this. My biggest concern is that I'll somehow strip/break a truss rod that's been maladjusted previously. I'm unclear as to the starting point, or conversely, the truss rod adjustment stopping point before the possibility of something breaking. Also, how does one tell if you do have a truss rod problem - rattles (non-string related), spinning adjustment nut, etc.? I haven't tried anything yet - I want to baby my new baby. :-) Thanks again. (Message edited by pizzareah on December 07, 2005) (Message edited by pizzareah on December 07, 2005) | ||
| marcky
Member Username: marcky Post Number: 56 Registered: 11-2005 |
When you look down the neck from the bottom down the fretboard towards the nut you can see if you neck needs adjustment. Be sure it is strung up and in tune for the right amount of tension. If the fretboard looks flat and there are no buzz or rattle problems keep the neck like this. If it bends a bit forward (the headstock bends away from you when strapped on) and it still plays ok keep it like that. If it is bend to much forward so the strings are far of the fingerboard with the bridge fairly low tighten the trussrods a little bit. If the neck bowes back(headstock bends towards you when bass strapped on) loosen the trussrods a bit until the board is flat. Do not turn more then 1/4 at once. If you don't feel safe with what you are doing let a qualified luthier do it for you. Good luck Marc | ||
| s_wood
Intermediate Member Username: s_wood Post Number: 165 Registered: 5-2002 |
Rich: If the truss rod turns easily enough that you don't have to strain to move it you can't do any permanent damage. Try turning the truss rods 1/4 of a turn at a time, and then stop and check your neck to see how much movement you have caused, and in which direction. Here's a link to a very good sight that will explain the basics for you: http://www.garywillis.com/pages/bass/bassmanual/trussrod.html Good luck! | ||
| bigredbass
Senior Member Username: bigredbass Post Number: 507 Registered: 9-2002 |
Well you won't strip it loosening, and if you tighten far enough to where you begin to hear that popping sound, S T O P ! Remember, truss rod adjustments are done in small fractions of a complete turn. Think watch making, not auto mechanics. Incidentally, when I get a new (to me) previously owned bass, I usually back the nut off and put a drop of your preferred lube on the threads (I like BreakFree CLP) so it will always be nice and smooth. When I get a used bass, I take off the old strings, clean the fretboard/frets/bridge/nut, and restring with my usual set. Always check it AFTER you put your preferred strings on there as this is the tension this bass is going to live with. Always do your adjustments tuned to pitch, and NEVER lying on its back: Check this with the bass on it's side (usually in my lap) in playing position. I then check the string clearance over the first and last fret, and fix if necessary. I then check the relief. If it's fine, I'm done. If not, I'll back the nut(s) off to loose, then retighten to where they just begin to get snug. I'll leave it overnight to take a set with my strings, then finish it off tomorrow. If it was a big adjustment, you'll probably chase it for a few days till it all settles down. With the variables of the different wood from bass to bass, different tension with different strings, etc., the only 'neutral' spot I've found is to start from loose and work my way in. That way you KNOW it wan't too tight to begin with. J o e y | ||
| pizzareah
New Username: pizzareah Post Number: 3 Registered: 12-2005 |
Thanks everyone - I appreciate all the insight. The previous owner PLAYED this bass and it looks like it was always put away wet, so it needs some spiffing up. I'll post pics once I've got it looking gooood (shouldn't be too hard to do with a 5A Quilted Maple top, and some brass cleaner and Alembic polish). Gregory | ||
| davehouck
Moderator Username: davehouck Post Number: 2730 Registered: 5-2002 |
Hi Gregory; welcome to the group and congrats on the Essence! | ||
| dadabass2001
Senior Member Username: dadabass2001 Post Number: 493 Registered: 6-2002 |
Welcome Gregory, Don't forget to register your new baby, if you haven't already done so. Enjoy your new sweet music machine. Mike | ||
| cosmic
Junior Username: cosmic Post Number: 44 Registered: 5-2005 |
Gregory, best thing to do is follow the advice up above. What I do is checkk the neck as per above, then make a 1/4 turn -- no more than 1/2 -- and let it settle. Give it a day or two and then check it again. Again, make only a small turn of the rod. Wait a few days and check again. Just remember, if it is hard to turn or if it makes a dreadful noise, you probably have too much tension on it and may need to back off or take it to a luthier to check out. I have never had that problem, but always fear it. | ||
| bigredbass
Senior Member Username: bigredbass Post Number: 512 Registered: 9-2002 |
Good for you that you're going to detail this bass! A few tricks I learned over the years: After I polish the brass, I wipe just the thinnest film of Alberto VO5 (yes, the old school hair cream in the gold toothpaste tube) over it. VO5 is totally organic and harmless to the finish, electronics, etc., but will keep the brass shiny a lot longer between cleanings. It should feel smooth to touch; if it's greasy, you need to wipe a little more off. For the truss rod nuts, the bridge saddle threaded rods, the bridge height screws, the nut screws, etc., I use BreakFree CLP. This is one of those space age wonderlubes. It's mil-spec, used for every shooting iron from Berettas to howitzers in Uncle Sam's armory. It's also harmless to finishes and electronics, and it really armor plates these parts to sweat, beer, etc. A little goes a long way and it lasts forever, and it's great to have around the house. Dose the door locks in your car or home and they'll never freeze up during this winter weather. J o e y | ||
| bigredbass
Senior Member Username: bigredbass Post Number: 513 Registered: 9-2002 |
Good for you that you're going to detail this bass! A few tricks I learned over the years: After I polish the brass, I wipe just the thinnest film of Alberto VO5 (yes, the old school hair cream in the gold toothpaste tube) over it. VO5 is totally organic and harmless to the finish, electronics, etc., but will keep the brass shiny a lot longer between cleanings. It should feel smooth to touch; if it's greasy, you need to wipe a little more off. For the truss rod nuts, the bridge saddle threaded rods, the bridge height screws, the nut screws, etc., I use BreakFree CLP. This is one of those space age wonderlubes. It's mil-spec, used for every shooting iron from Berettas to howitzers in Uncle Sam's armory. It's also harmless to finishes and electronics, and it really armor plates these parts to sweat, beer, etc. A little goes a long way and it lasts forever, and it's great to have around the house. Dose the door locks in your car or home and they'll never freeze up during this winter weather. You can get both of these at WalMart, or you can usually find BreakFree at any good firearms store. J o e y |
