| Author | Message | ||
| gale barchus (gbarchus)
Junior Username: gbarchus Post Number: 21 Registered: 6-2002 |
I'd like to put another straplock on the control side of the omega cutaway, but it doesn't look like there's enough room in the wood before tapping into the control cavity. Has anyone tried this? | ||
| Mica Wickersham (mica)
Moderator Username: mica Post Number: 539 Registered: 6-2000 |
When we've installed a straplock on either side of the omega for a custom order, we don't do anything different in the construction to prepare for it. I suppose since each instrument is different there will be cases where it isn't possible to install an additional straplock. I'd have to see your instrument to help you make that determination. | ||
| gale barchus (gbarchus)
Junior Username: gbarchus Post Number: 22 Registered: 6-2002 |
Thanks for the reply, Mica! If it helps, its a 20th Anniversary model. I realize I should have mentioned it originally. | ||
| Mica Wickersham (mica)
Moderator Username: mica Post Number: 560 Registered: 6-2000 |
Hey, Wayne - didn't you install another straplock on your 20th Anniversary bass? | ||
| Wayne McLemore (wayne)
Junior Username: wayne Post Number: 34 Registered: 5-2002 |
Yep, sure did. My wife ran and hid while I was drilling. ;-)) I didn't have any problem with the control cavity. I got the recessed Dunlops, read the instructions very carefully, then went to the local Home Depot and bought the most expensive, best drill bits available in the right sizes. I also got a good center punch. I put a piece of masking tape over the approximate placement of the new lock. Then I measured the distances from each edge and from the omega to the center of the existing lock. I transferred those measurements to the tape with a pencil. That gave me a nice "X marks the spot". I made sure that the bass was securely clamped to my workbench (with towels protecting the finish) so that it couldn't move in any direction. In the dead center of the X, I used the center punch to get a nice dimple in the wood - better to keep the drill bit from wandering. Once the dimple was punched, I removed the tape. Then came the moment of truth - drilling into a one of a kind $3,500 instrument. Talk about an adrenaline rush. The instructions have you drill a deep pilot hole for the anchor screw and then drill a much larger hole just deep enough for the locking cylinder. I used masking tape to mark the depth on each drill bit, and commenced to drill VERY VERY carefully. I made sure I didn't go too deep on the second bit, and did a test fit of the cylinder. It was easier to drill a little more wood out than to try to put shavings back in. Be sure to stay square to the edge of the bass where you're drilling - remember that it's completely rounded over. Then it's just driving the anchor screw in to hold the cylinder in place. It's just that easy. Don't get in a hurry and be sure you use good, sharp drill bits. If you're too terribly nervous about it, practice on a piece of scrap wood first. Good luck! C-Ya...............wayne | ||
| gale barchus (gbarchus)
Junior Username: gbarchus Post Number: 23 Registered: 6-2002 |
Thanks Mica and Wayne! You inspired me to go for it. Gale | ||
| Paul Lindemans (palembic)
Intermediate Member Username: palembic Post Number: 167 Registered: 9-2002 |
Wooooof... WAYNE! that story reads as a thriller! |
