| Author | Message | ||
| sstillwell
Junior Username: sstillwell Post Number: 18 Registered: 2-2003 |
I have been breaking A strings like you would not believe...always the A string...never anything else. Always in the same spot...right at the bridge saddle. They never last more than a couple of weeks of twice-a-week or three times playing. This is an Epic 4-string, 45-65-80-105 gauges, I play with a heavy pick (Dunlop Tortex 1.14mm), and I play hard, but not THAT hard....jeez. I thought maybe it was a burr that was weakening the strings...I could feel one with my fingernail on the flat face of the saddle closest to the pickups. I took it to a VERY reputable repair shop here in town to have them look at it. They filed and polished the groove. Took it out to a gig last night...boing. Broken A string...at the saddle. What is up with this? I use Dean Markley Blue Steel strings...has anybody else had problems with them? It's never been a problem before now. I LOVE Alembic strings, but finding them here in town (Kansas City) is always a problem. Maybe I should just order them online and be done with it. I'm open to suggestions...thanks! Scott Stillwell | ||
| davehouck
Moderator Username: davehouck Post Number: 3822 Registered: 5-2002 |
Do you have a magnifying glass? | ||
| 811952
Senior Member Username: 811952 Post Number: 720 Registered: 10-2003 |
I have been using Blue Steels of late as well, and several months ago I broke an A string. I haven't broken a string in forever, and back in the day only ever broke E strings. Check to see that it's firm in the saddle, as wiggling there makes the windings chafe/nick the core, leading to breakage. Were you using another brand previously that wasn't as prone to breakage? Also, I think Dave is leading up to having you check for burrs and such on the saddle, or evidence that the string is rubbing the back rail of the bridge. There have been a few threads on this topic, so you may want to search a bit on it here. John | ||
| bumhucker
Junior Username: bumhucker Post Number: 18 Registered: 3-2006 |
have you tried an .85 A string? | ||
| smokin_dave
Advanced Member Username: smokin_dave Post Number: 267 Registered: 10-2002 |
You might want to try using a little graphite in the groove on the saddle also. | ||
| sstillwell
Junior Username: sstillwell Post Number: 19 Registered: 2-2003 |
I don't know if I have a glass offhand, but I'll find one somewhere...can always go buy one for cheap...less expensive than strings, that's for sure! I'm wondering if there might be a QC problem with those strings. I'm pretty sure that the bridge was initially grooved for those gauge strings, but I'll check to see if there's more play in the A slot. re: back rail of the bridge...the string is breaking exactly at the saddle...not behind it. I'll do some more searching. In the meantime I'll either drag out my Epic 6 or my trusty old Precision. The Epic will sound better, but my hands are kinda small for the 6...I start to cramp up after a few songs, much less an entire night. | ||
| davehouck
Moderator Username: davehouck Post Number: 3823 Registered: 5-2002 |
Here is a previous thread that may or may not be helpful. The follow up to that thread is that using a large self supported magnifying glass and a needle file, I carefully and thoroughly smoothed the saddle. It turns out that in my case, the problem is that I use light tension small gauge strings and I play hard. But I'm not breaking strings every two weeks like you are. | ||
| sstillwell
Junior Username: sstillwell Post Number: 20 Registered: 2-2003 |
Thanks, but the point to be noted here is that I've already taken the bass to the shop and had that done...and these guys are VERY good. I will get a glass and inspect, but I think I'll also change brands of strings and see what happens. | ||
| haddimudd
Intermediate Member Username: haddimudd Post Number: 153 Registered: 6-2002 |
I had the problem not with an Alembic bass, but many years ago on a Fender Jazz clone and a Squier Jazz respectively when I played Rotosound string. The braking strings where not limited to only the A-string but also a lot of D and G strings due to excessive pulling of slap style playing. I don't remember at which time the brakage stopped but I stopped using Rotosounds for that particular reason and maybe that changed the situation. Anyway, I also changed basses at one point so that also may have helped, but that is surely not your option. | ||
| rami
Senior Member Username: rami Post Number: 552 Registered: 6-2002 |
I've never broken a string ever - on any of my Basses. Frankly, the thought scares the HELL out of me! That .105 E string or .130 B string whipping by. I'm sure that thought has subconsciously influenced the development of my technique. I'm gentle with my Basses so they don't bite back. Good luck - I have no useful advice to offer. Perhaps a set of safety glasses might be in order? Rami | ||
| olieoliver
Advanced Member Username: olieoliver Post Number: 320 Registered: 2-2006 |
Rami,Ive broken several strings (not in a few years though)and have never had a bass string fly at me. I have had guitar strings do this but never a bass string. I assume this is because they are not pulled as tight as a guitar. (Message edited by olieoliver on May 18, 2006) | ||
| davehouck
Moderator Username: davehouck Post Number: 3828 Registered: 5-2002 |
In my case, the string always break at the saddle. It is the wrap that breaks; the core stays intact. Thus, the string always remains in the saddle and doesn't go flying off anywhere. | ||
| olieoliver
Advanced Member Username: olieoliver Post Number: 321 Registered: 2-2006 |
Same here Dave. I've never had one break any place but the saddle. Even on my Kubickis, and the have a very smooth surface at the bridge/tuner. I used to think this was because I played too hard and this may be so, but I've never broke a string that was newer than 3 or 4 weeks old anyway. So I never really worried about too much. | ||
| haddimudd
Intermediate Member Username: haddimudd Post Number: 156 Registered: 6-2002 |
Funny, when my strings broke it was the core, never the wrap. Same here though, they would brake at the saddle. And since the wrap was still intact the string was kept from flying anywhere. Indeed, the effect of braking would show in a sudden loss of tension, not the opposite like a whipping effect. Dave, with the intact core I would guess you could continue playing, couldn't you? In the 80s there was a UK string brand using this concept where the wrap would stop before the saddle so the core alone would lie on the saddle. The result was said to give more of a piano string sound. Mark King was endorsing them at that time. So I guess you would be in good company with your intact unwrapped core... | ||
| olieoliver
Advanced Member Username: olieoliver Post Number: 323 Registered: 2-2006 |
My strings always broke at the saddle like Daves, but mine too was the core not the wrap that broke. | ||
| davehouck
Moderator Username: davehouck Post Number: 3835 Registered: 5-2002 |
Hartmut; now that I think about it, mine probably broke at the core too. That's what I get for trying to rely on my memory. Thanks for setting me straight! | ||
| bigredbass
Senior Member Username: bigredbass Post Number: 785 Registered: 9-2002 |
Back in the day when yours truly frammed the **** out of my basses with Fender heavy picks (this was CERTAINLY before my low-action present day) I'd routinely break Roto and Boomer E's and A's just from the torque I was inputting! They always broke at the saddle, I'm guessing from the side to side slamming they were getting. Nothing ever flew across the room, except the bandleader at me! I did however have a G below middle C break on a baby grand I was playing. It popped at the far end and whipped a chunk out of the music stand and threw the score in my lap. Scared the hell out of me. That really proved the worth of learning to read music! If the stand had been laying flat . . . . You know in the old days when metallurgy was a fairly crude science and before XRay inspection, the harps on pianos would break against the tension. On a concert grand, this totals around 60,000#, and was quite terrifying and even deadly on occasion. J o e y | ||
| davehouck
Moderator Username: davehouck Post Number: 3843 Registered: 5-2002 |
You broke a string playing piano!!!??? Did you have a backup piano with you at the gig? | ||
| bigredbass
Senior Member Username: bigredbass Post Number: 787 Registered: 9-2002 |
I was playing at home when I was a kid. Those of us who remember the CP70/80 portable Yamaha grands remember they ran a close race breaking stings with the Rhodes' breaking tines! J o e y | ||
| sluggo
New Username: sluggo Post Number: 8 Registered: 5-2006 |
In my expirience...strings, as a rule, do tend to break at the saddle. This due to the fact that the saddle is the fulcrum of the lever(string). That is the are a of most strain is, plus ...we are constantly pulling, slapping, picking, thumping, hitting, flicking, striking, plucking, strumming, and delicately finesing the strings nearest that point. It is probably not your bass since you've had it inspected...stuff happens! Take Care SLUGGO | ||
| bsee
Senior Member Username: bsee Post Number: 1161 Registered: 3-2004 |
Scott, I would contact the manufacturer. If you keep buying your strings from the same dealer, particularly if they are a local shop, you could be getting set after set from the same manufacturing lot. If there was any sort of problem with that group, you're just buying faulty string after faulty string. I had a problem with some La Bella strings last year and the company replaced them within a couple weeks. | ||
| keurosix
Junior Username: keurosix Post Number: 47 Registered: 10-2005 |
Scott, I haven't broke an "A" string for decades now. However, when I was real young, stronger, and easily excitable, I broke a bunch. Like the time our band opened for Johnny Winter at Toad's Place in New Haven, CT and I was playing REAL hard! I was pumped! That was a B.C. Rich bass with a similar bridge saddle like the Alembic: A sharp edge to intonate correctly. This sharp edge works like a knife on the string and forces a wedge between wraps. eventually it will weaken the core as you flex the string back and forth. The tension on the string helps to degrade the string quickly too. The more aggressive playing style, the quicker you snap the core. The wrap can break too and usually will because the bridge saddle takes a bite into it. Of all the strings I broke, only one did not break the wrap. It acted like a loose spring and took twice as long to extract through the string hole on the bridge (BC Rich). If only I had the Alembic then. I would have played with a much lighter touch having the electronics to take up where I could not get with my fingers alone. I used to use Dean Markley stst strings, stst Rotos, stst Ken Smith Rock Masters, and now the Alembics. While the Alembic string is not as flexible as a true roundwound stst string, the slightly flattened wrap sounds "refined" and has a depth to it. They seem to last a long time too. Of course with Alembic electronics, even dead strings can singe your nose hairs off! I really believe it is mostly your technique that is breaking strings. I have seen certain aftermarket bridges (ABM, etc,) that have fat saddles front to back which cradle the string and won't allow much lateral movement. I bet that would keep your strings lasting longer. If your bass is an Alembic, see if they can make a special set of "Fat saddles" to try. If it's not an Alembic, sell it - it's the bass' fault! Get you an Alembic NOW! P.S. Bob is right - contact the string manufacturer and they will replace them for you. The cost of one string is far less than a customer who says " I love your strings except for the funky little habit they have of breaking". Keurosix |
