| Author | Message | ||
| hb3
Advanced Member Username: hb3 Post Number: 240 Registered: 2-2005 |
I was thinking of installing some on my SC custom. I was looking at the Schallers, then saw some reports of screws not fitting, stripping out, making the holes bigger, etc. Anyone have any experience with installation? | ||
| cozmik_cowboy
Intermediate Member Username: cozmik_cowboy Post Number: 172 Registered: 10-2006 |
About every player I know that uses strap locks uses Schallers. With the pull release (as opposed to most others' push-button type) accidental release is impossible. The channel on the strap cradling the post is belt-and suspenders security. As to the screws, yes, they're a little bigger than most stock strap button screws. I've seen this cure the stock strap button working loose - the stock screw has stripped the hole, but I've never seen nor heard of the Schaller screw coming loose. I wouldn't use anything else. Peter | ||
| chuck
Intermediate Member Username: chuck Post Number: 170 Registered: 3-2005 |
I installed my first set of Shaller strap locks this past saturday.Almost everyone at the N.C. gathering was using them.They are great.Use a little candle wax or bar soap rubbed into the screw hole and on the screw thread if they fit to tight. Chuck (Message edited by chuck on July 22, 2007) (Message edited by chuck on July 22, 2007) | ||
| hb3
Advanced Member Username: hb3 Post Number: 241 Registered: 2-2005 |
Cool. I guess what I specifically read about the Schallers was that somehow the pressure or weight exerted on the screws caused the screwholes to become bigger over time or something. Heh. He said "screwholes".... | ||
| 2400wattman
Senior Member Username: 2400wattman Post Number: 425 Registered: 11-2005 |
If you move a lot and shift your bass around you might want to get some longer screws as the screws that come with the Schallers are about the same length. If not then the stock screws will be fine. Other than bolting the strap directly to the bass, these are the best you can get. I also recommend putting a little carmex or vaseline on the strap button to lubricate it. The friction can work the screw lose. I'm going to stop here.................. | ||
| keurosix
Intermediate Member Username: keurosix Post Number: 190 Registered: 10-2005 |
Hugh, Straplocks are the way to go. There are two types: (Schaller) One has a standard post that attaches to the guitar, with a horse-shoe shaped strap attachment that has a spring-loaded pin you pull up on to release the lock. This is the better design. The other (Dunlop?) has a long strap barrel attached to the guitar, and a large capped strap attachment that inserts into the barrel and locks in place when you push down on the button on top. This design has 4 tiny ball bearings that lock in a groove in the barrel, and retract when the top button is depressed releasing the lock. I have had these fail numerous times, and they wear out quickly because the balls are too small. Also, because the lock releases with a push of the button, you can drop your guitar with a misplaced bump! That'll scare your pants off too! Imagine pulling up your guitar and your pants too! You'll miss more than a few beats! I can also say that any straplock needs to be checked often for loosening hardware: Check the nut on the strap with an adjustable wrench. Leather compresses. Check the screw in the body. Alembics with a mahogany core tend to loosen up on the screws. You can tighten it only so much before you need to add a toothpick. If this works only temporary, you may need to follow the fix in the FAQ section about drilling out the hole, gluing in a hardwood dowel, and redrilling. Sorry, I can't find that post right now, but it it there. I have never had to go this route yet, but it really depends on how much you move around when you play. Kris | ||
| dannobasso
Senior Member Username: dannobasso Post Number: 608 Registered: 3-2004 |
Old trick I use on all my basses (I shift and move around a lot) is to get a wooden toothpick, place it in the hole [sometimes 2 pieces] to really make the fit tight. Very often the Schallers are a smaller diameter screw than other brands. Even with this treatment I still have to tighten up the screws from time to time. I only use schallers on my instruments. | ||
| hb3
Advanced Member Username: hb3 Post Number: 242 Registered: 2-2005 |
I wish I'd spent the bucks on recessed strap locks... | ||
| 2400wattman
Senior Member Username: 2400wattman Post Number: 426 Registered: 11-2005 |
The recessed locks are the Dunlop brand which are of the same design Kris was talking about. I've actually seen the posts break on these things. They're just not very reliable over time and they will break. Schallers are the way to go, or you could check out the DiMarzio ClipLok straps where there is a portion of the strap screwed to the bass(on each end) with a "female" clip end on it and the strap clicks to it. | ||
| adriaan
Senior Member Username: adriaan Post Number: 1558 Registered: 6-2002 |
With the Schallers, don't forget to re-tighten the nut on the strap - it gets loose over time. | ||
| fc_spoiler
Senior Member Username: fc_spoiler Post Number: 582 Registered: 5-2006 |
I use Schallers on all my basses, they're great! Just use the original screws from your bass (not those supplied with the Schallers) The screws on my (ex) Gibson the Ripper did not fit in the strapholders (screwhead too big) so I sanded them down to fit. | ||
| to_81_0190
Member Username: to_81_0190 Post Number: 69 Registered: 5-2006 |
I agree to Adriaan. It's very important point. When I changed strap button to straplocks, I have used original screw for straplocks to prevent the screw hole loose. Then the original screw head was larger than the hole of straplocks, I prepared another set of original screw and ground it's head to fit. Toshiaki | ||
| terryc
Advanced Member Username: terryc Post Number: 216 Registered: 11-2004 |
I have the locks on my MK signature bass and as per usual the holes lost their threads. Use the cocktail/match stick trick but put a few drops of thread locking liquid in the hole, this stuff is used on bolts which are prone to vibration, it doesn't completely glue the screw in but if you have to remove it at sometime use a good quality and tight fitting screwdriver to loosen it. Don't use epoxy because if the screw snaps then its new holes or a very careful drilling job! | ||
| lbpesq
Senior Member Username: lbpesq Post Number: 2547 Registered: 7-2004 |
I also use Schallers on several guitars and have had no problems. I thought about the recessed locks, but decided against it. With the Schaller system, if my strap breaks, or I forget it, a regular old strap will work in a pinch. With the recessed locks, forget or break your strap at a gig and you're SOL. Bill, tgo | ||
| olieoliver
Senior Member Username: olieoliver Post Number: 1480 Registered: 2-2006 |
I used the Schaller many years ago but stopped and went with the Dunlop after I had one come loose during a gig. The nut on the saddle unscrewed. I've use the Dunlop since probably the 80's and have never had one drop. You are right about the recessed locks Bill but I never show up to a gig with just one guitar or strap. Guess my boy scout roots kick in here. LOL Be prepared, Olie  (Message edited by olieoliver on July 23, 2007) | ||
| fc_spoiler
Senior Member Username: fc_spoiler Post Number: 584 Registered: 5-2006 |
Super glue or Loctite ;-) Never had any problems with that... | ||
| olieoliver
Senior Member Username: olieoliver Post Number: 1481 Registered: 2-2006 |
I had loctite on it when it gave loose. Olie | ||
| jacko
Senior Member Username: jacko Post Number: 1269 Registered: 10-2002 |
I've squeezed a drop or two of Evo stick 'no more nails' into the screwholes of my schallers. Never had one loosen up since. Graeme | ||
| jet_powers
Advanced Member Username: jet_powers Post Number: 333 Registered: 2-2003 |
I've used the matchstick method in the past and found it takes about five years for it to stop working. JP | ||
| lbpesq
Senior Member Username: lbpesq Post Number: 2548 Registered: 7-2004 |
I ALWAYS check twice that the nut (holding the clip on the strap) is tight before clicking the strap to the guitar. I LOVE the solid sound and feel when the Schaller locks into place. Bill, tgo | ||
| davehouck
Moderator Username: davehouck Post Number: 5348 Registered: 5-2002 |
The recessed strap locks look great; but there was a thread around here quite some time ago where there were a couple of stories that lead me to believe that Schallers were the way to go. Of course there are negative reports on Schallers too, but I've used them for a long time and I'm happy with them. I can't remember but it seems to me I must have put lock washers on my strap at some point because they no longer seem to get loose. Like Danno, I tighten up the screws from time to time. And I've probably got a piece or two of match stick in the holes. I've often thought of getting some tiny lock washers for the buttons; and I might try Terry's suggestion of thread locking liquid. | ||
| keavin
Senior Member Username: keavin Post Number: 1262 Registered: 12-2002 |
as a safety precaution i've stopped using straplocks & screwed my strap into my Bass which is what stanley clarke does. | ||
| alembickoa
Junior Username: alembickoa Post Number: 46 Registered: 5-2002 |
Well...I have recently been using the ORIGINAL strap locks which work great, are readily available, and economically viable. Ya know those little plastic thingamajigs that come on bread bags? That's what we used before strap locks hit the market. They still work great, don't change the originality of the instrument, don't wear and tear the instrument, and, are a rather unique conversation piece should anyone happen to notice you using them. Just a thought. | ||
| tbrannon
Senior Member Username: tbrannon Post Number: 508 Registered: 11-2004 |
I use Schallers- they've always worked well for me. I check the strap screw once a month or so without any real problems. I've always found that the screw needs to be tightened pretty frequently on a new strap- once the leather is compressed and the strap is broken in I rarely have to tighten them. I too have used the plastic tabs from bread bags. They work. | ||
| jacko
Senior Member Username: jacko Post Number: 1272 Registered: 10-2002 |
Keavin. When I saw Stanley in London recently, he was using straplocks. Just visible in this pic...  Graeme | ||
| benson_murrensun
New Username: benson_murrensun Post Number: 6 Registered: 5-2007 |
It seems that the screws come loose less frequently if you use nylon washers between the strap posts and the guitar. I, too, have used the toothpick-in-the-hole trick; I dip the end of the toothpick section(s) into Elmer's glue first. Not too much glue, please... | ||
| davehouck
Moderator Username: davehouck Post Number: 5353 Registered: 5-2002 |
Interesting angle on the five pin in that picture. | ||
| byoung
Senior Member Username: byoung Post Number: 734 Registered: 12-2004 |
Dave, That's a 1/4" plug. You can see the 5-pin socket next to his middle finger. Bradley | ||
| cozmik_cowboy
Intermediate Member Username: cozmik_cowboy Post Number: 176 Registered: 10-2006 |
And the straplocks appear to be Schallers. Peter | ||
| terryc
Advanced Member Username: terryc Post Number: 220 Registered: 11-2004 |
That plug is a large Neutrik 1/4" jack plug..very robust, almost bullet proof, can be stood on and don't bend | ||
| essenceman
Member Username: essenceman Post Number: 57 Registered: 10-2002 |
I don't think it is a 1/4" jack, Terry. Neutrik do make angled XLR plugs in all flavours (3, 4, 5, 6 & 7 pin). I bought one of these when I was toying with the idea of powering my Essence remotely - it's a beautifully-made plug. I've not seen a Neutrik 1/4" jack in the same casing. Here are a couple of pictures of mine:  Neutrik have updated their products since I bought mine. Here are links to the relevant pages on their site: Angled XLRs http://www.neutrik.com/uk/en/audio/204_997818242/RX_Series_productlist.aspx 1/4" jacks http://www.neutrik.com/uk/en/audio/204_789383662/1_4__Prof._Phone_Plugs,_X-Series_productlist.aspx (Sorry, this wouldn't work as a link, you'll just have to copy and paste it.) Cheers Rob (Message edited by essenceman on July 25, 2007) | ||
| terryc
Advanced Member Username: terryc Post Number: 221 Registered: 11-2004 |
Essenceman, if you look closely it is(byoung verifies it and you can see the 3 pin XLR plate near his finger) and I know because I have one on one of my leads. Same mount casing as XLR but 1/4" pin | ||
| keith_h
Senior Member Username: keith_h Post Number: 817 Registered: 2-2005 |
I'm not surprised he is using batteries in Europe (ie 1/4 inch jack). It probably easier to replace batteries than lug around a DS5 or the different voltage. Keith | ||
| bassdr
Member Username: bassdr Post Number: 97 Registered: 10-2004 |
When the screws holding my Schallers stripped out the holes in the wood I installed threaded bronze inserts into the wood and use machine screws. No more loosening screws. I also check the nuts that secure the strap locks to the leather strap everytime I play to make sure they aren't loose. I don't want to drop Flame Koa Essence! Michael | ||
| essenceman
Member Username: essenceman Post Number: 58 Registered: 10-2002 |
Terry, I stand corrected! Rob | ||
| terryc
Advanced Member Username: terryc Post Number: 222 Registered: 11-2004 |
Bassdr - what a brilliant idea, I am off to the fastners suppliers to get some and do the same, maybe that could be a standard fitment for all Alembics and stop us putting cocktail sticks & matches in the holes | ||
| davehouck
Moderator Username: davehouck Post Number: 5357 Registered: 5-2002 |
Thanks Bradley! | ||
| newuser
Junior Username: newuser Post Number: 36 Registered: 12-2004 |
Hey Bradley, care to share the dimensions of your threaded inserts? Thread count? Source? E-Z LOK makes them and I've ordered some 1/4"s from www.barnhillbolt.com (6-32 and 8-32 which is what they have). Will search for bolts when the inserts arrive. Schaller inner diameter is 1/8", but can be drilled a little larger (I've done this on an Gibson Tobias bass before as its OEM screws had a larger diameter than the Schallers). Alembic has a source for even smaller ones as used for truss rod and control plates, but I found nothing that small on the net. Thanks in advance! | ||
| newuser
Junior Username: newuser Post Number: 37 Registered: 12-2004 |
So the inserts showed up and just in time as this morning I was able to pull the Schaller stub and wood screw out with no effort. The 6-32s are the way to go. Since the bass has a Rogue body shape I had to get a drill that can swivel. Then I took a practice run on a scrap of wood. Next I drilled the 1/4" hole for the insert. Be sure to read Mica's post in the FAQ: (Information Related to All Instruments) Installing threaded inserts Carefully insert the insert ;) I chose not to use Mica's method. I wanted a 'fix' that can be removed w/o drilling an even larger hole (although I imagine you could use a tap and dye set to remove inserts installed the right way). So instead I carefully worked an insert 3/4 of the way in, then backed it out and disposed of it. You guessed it, as careful as I was the slots started to lift and tear. The second insert went all the way in and a little more as per E-Z LOK's instructions (1/16" below the surface). I threaded a small lock washer, then the Schaller stub, then a 1/4" nylon plumbing washer and screwed it all up. Hoorah! All is now well. For the heck of it I used a Q-tip to SPARINGLY put a little ProLink chain lube (a "dry" lube for bicycle chains) on the stub and the U shaped channel. If you try this please be careful, the fumes are not pleasant, I don't think it would do the finish any good (when applying to chains I try not to let it drip on my tires as from experience I believe it causes the kevlar bead to fail prematurely), and you really don't want it to get on the fingerboard or your strap. Check list: Brass Threaded inserts @ 6-32s steel bolts 6-32 1/4" drill bit, swivel head drill if working on Rogue shaped basses right angle ratching screw drivers if working on Rogue shaped basses tiny lock washers 1/4" nylon washer Pics done with cellphone-cam, sorry.  Drill and Bass  First Insert  Right angle ratching screw driver  Inserted  Constituent parts  Done! | ||
| newuser
Junior Username: newuser Post Number: 38 Registered: 12-2004 |
Oops! That should read "ratcheting" not "ratching". | ||
| davehouck
Moderator Username: davehouck Post Number: 5391 Registered: 5-2002 |
With pictures! | ||
| xlrogue6
Intermediate Member Username: xlrogue6 Post Number: 129 Registered: 8-2002 |
I just did the low tech fix on the upper button on my fretted Rogue, this time using plastic epoxy.(I've tried numerous adhesives to hold the dowels in place, best results so far from standard epoxy, which lasted a couple of years.) I'll try Dan's method the next time things loosen up. Good to know there's another 6 string Alembic playing cyclist on the board. Personally, I like Finish Line on my chains... | ||
| valvil
Moderator Username: valvil Post Number: 1030 Registered: 7-2002 |
I just found a new (to me) type of straplock that I really like. Easiest by far to install on a strap and very secure, I'd say way better and safer than Schaller or Dunlop, and better looking and reasonably priced to boot. Zeppelinn ( yes 2 'n's ) is the name of the brand. Couldn't find a website for them but here's a link to a store that carries them. http://www.zzounds.com/item--MUPZSL600 Similar concept to the Dunlop but has a different way of mounting on the strap; also the release happens when you pull on the straplock between the strap and the body of the instrument, so there's no chance of accidentally releasing it. The screw that secures the part that goes on the strap is long and if for some reason it starts loosening, you can rest easy, there's no way you won't notice it ages before it happens. Highly recommended. Valentino | ||
| georgie_boy
Advanced Member Username: georgie_boy Post Number: 278 Registered: 8-2005 |
I've been using the Schallers for years now. When I got my Series 1 some 7 years ago, all I did was remove the Alembic studs, fit the Shallers to the strap, and insert the ORIGINAL screw back into the body of the guitar, with the new strap locks------------so simple! Never had a problem. I do however, like most people, check that the nut on the strap is good and secure. G | ||
| bracheen
Senior Member Username: bracheen Post Number: 1248 Registered: 11-2003 |
I'm another one in the Schaller camp. I have them on two basses and a guitar. The only issue I have is the strap holes tend to be smaller that the threaded lock post and have to be trimmed. More a nuisence than a problem. | ||
| jet_powers
Advanced Member Username: jet_powers Post Number: 338 Registered: 2-2003 |
The only time I have a problem with the Schallers is when using my Exploiter. The rounded thingy you grab to release it sticks into my gut. So I just remove it when playing that bass.... JP | ||
| jacko
Senior Member Username: jacko Post Number: 1280 Registered: 10-2002 |
Sam. Smaller strap holes are a blessing with the Schallers. It means, with a bit of effort, you can screw the threaded post into the strap before fastening the nut on. Gives a little extra security - I'm using Levy's straps. So far I've never had a nut loosen but I've taken the precaution of adding a drop of glue to the screws on the basses. Graeme | ||
| bracheen
Senior Member Username: bracheen Post Number: 1250 Registered: 11-2003 |
You are right with that, Graeme. I use Planet Waves except on my Thumb Bass. I use a Comfort Strapp to counteract the neck dive. I've had no problems with nuts loosening either. Of course my basses don't go through the rigors of gigging. Sam | ||
| 82daion
Member Username: 82daion Post Number: 67 Registered: 5-2005 |
I've used Schallers for some time, and have always had good luck with them, as long as I make sure the nuts on the strap pieces are tight. I've got a set waiting for my Series I when it comes in. | ||
| haddimudd
Advanced Member Username: haddimudd Post Number: 212 Registered: 6-2002 |
Valentino, thanks for that link! I have regular problems with the Schallers on my doubleneck. Maybe they can't handle the extra weight? The problem in my case lies not with screws or nuts but the locking parts: When the strap pulls, it usually orients the lock into a position in which the opening of the slide turns to face downwards, towards where the bass will be able to escape. Only a bit of extra weight/pulling is required and the lock will slide off its counterpart. It seems like the two connecting parts don't have a sufficiently tight grip at each other. I can't see any adjustments for that particular issue. I wish they would not slide on sideways but rather connect from the front. It seems like the Zeppelinn version works that way. I am curious to check them out... Hartmut | ||
| byoung
Senior Member Username: byoung Post Number: 740 Registered: 12-2004 |
Hartmut, I installed a pair last night. I think that you will like them-- they are very sturdy, and definitely seem failsafe. I spent some time fiddling with them, and they have a very satisfying "click" when they seat. One thing, though-- I would not suggest installing them with the screws that they come with (they are substandard). Install them with the Alembic screws (like everything Alembic, they're over-spec'd). You will need to trim some of the head to make them fit, but well worth the hassle. I did mine with a disc sander attached to my drill. Took just a couple of minutes. If I remember, I'll try to post some pictures of them installed on the Epic. | ||
| byoung
Senior Member Username: byoung Post Number: 742 Registered: 12-2004 |
Pictures:   Bradley |
