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Intermediate Member
Username: hieronymous

Post Number: 181
Registered: 1-2005
Posted on Monday, September 03, 2007 - 11:41 pm:   Edit Post

Hi everybody, I tried to be good and looked around both in the FAQs and in the forums and searched, but didn't find what I was looking for.

So here's my question: Is there anything I should know about adjusting the bridge saddles on my old Series I? Do I need to loosen the nuts on the pickup side before turning the screw on the tailpiece side? Only when going in one direction? I'm sorry, it's probably a really simple question, but my brain just won't go beyond "righty-tighty lefty loosey" right now!

Here's a picture in case I'm not making sense:
series I bridge

I almost posted this in "troubleshooting" but it's not really a problem, so I thought this area was more appropriate.
Senior Member
Username: adriaan

Post Number: 1592
Registered: 6-2002
Posted on Tuesday, September 04, 2007 - 12:38 am:   Edit Post

As far as I can tell, you just need to turn the bolts, and the saddle will move. The nuts are there only for keeping everything in place.
Advanced Member
Username: terryc

Post Number: 255
Registered: 11-2004
Posted on Tuesday, September 04, 2007 - 6:55 am:   Edit Post

Could do with cleaning all the tarnish off and a good polish!!!!
Advanced Member
Username: serialnumber12

Post Number: 377
Registered: 12-2004
Posted on Tuesday, September 04, 2007 - 7:14 am:   Edit Post

Saddle adjustments has to do with intonation/set-up so you might wanna consider this too.
Intermediate Member
Username: hieronymous

Post Number: 182
Registered: 1-2005
Posted on Tuesday, September 04, 2007 - 8:09 am:   Edit Post

Thanks everybody - I have been working on the intonation just a little bit, but maybe it's time I really go nuts - oil the fretboards, clean the bridge pieces, and do the full setup routine. I've found the "Joey's setup" thread, but I'm going to have to hunt for the brass-cleaning threads...
Advanced Member
Username: terryc

Post Number: 258
Registered: 11-2004
Posted on Tuesday, September 04, 2007 - 8:20 am:   Edit Post

If there is any laquer on the brass this will have to be removed before you can polish the metal, use a paint stripper solution(obviously remove the hardware from the guitar or the consequences would be disasterous) the solution doesn't have be on long, use an old toothbrush to remove the residue - wear rubber/vinyl gloves to avoid contact dermatitis. Rinse in warm soapy water and dry with a soft towel and final dry in a warm oven or drying room(airing cupboard as we call them in the UK)
Once dry use a good quality metal polish wadding, I personally think the wadding is best as it can be molded to get into the small areas but any high quality polish with a soft cloth will do. Brasso/Duraglit in the UK..Flitz in the US of A.
Buff to high lustre with a clean cloth, you could re laquer after this with spray can products but I didn't bother.
I would oil the fretboard if you have it all stripped off too, if it hasn't been done for a while then apply loads and let it soak in, be careful, lemon oil can cause irritation to the skin if you are sensitive to plant oils(as before use gloves) To get rid of the string 'tide marks' on the board you will have to massage the oil into the board.
When you have done all this please post a pic on the forum to show off your hard work
Senior Member
Username: keith_h

Post Number: 845
Registered: 2-2005
Posted on Tuesday, September 04, 2007 - 10:59 am:   Edit Post

Alembic recommends Flitz polish. I've been using it and works well. Here is a link from the FAQ section.

Intermediate Member
Username: hieronymous

Post Number: 183
Registered: 1-2005
Posted on Tuesday, September 04, 2007 - 3:31 pm:   Edit Post

Thanks again. My immediate project is working on my '67 Starfire I which I recently took possession of - gonna change the strings and give it a setup. Then maybe I'll get to work on the doubleneck beyond setting the intonation.

I gotta tell ya though, cleaning the bridge saddles seems a bit intimidating. I'm not the kind of person with a lot of clean, open spaces to lay things down. No tool bench or anything like that. So we'll see. I definitely want to oil the fretboards again though - I did last fall after I got it. So maybe that would be the time to set aside a few hours and do everything - assuming I can make the time!

Does it really look that bad that I need to do it?

series I bridge 2
Senior Member
Username: crgaston

Post Number: 418
Registered: 11-2005
Posted on Tuesday, September 04, 2007 - 4:28 pm:   Edit Post

Heck, no, Harry. It's 30 years old. It's OK if it looks it. It's not like it's all green or anything. And once you break through the coating, you'll have to polish it all the time...

If you like it, leave it. If you want it shiny, polish it. It's your bass.

Advanced Member
Username: chuck

Post Number: 203
Registered: 3-2005
Posted on Tuesday, September 04, 2007 - 4:32 pm:   Edit Post

OK,let me say this about that.Some may be a bit intimadated by taking the bridge apart to do a really good job of this.My suggestion is to take all the brass,tailpeice and truss rod cover also to a jeweler and get them to buff it on the rouge wheel. If you lived near me I would do it for you in about 15 min. Afterwards clean off the residue{wax} with laquer thinner and spray with clear laquer.The best stuff I've found is the type used on trumpets ect.Don't use anything water based.It won't last.
Jewelers also do gold plating at a very reasonable price.

Advanced Member
Username: terryc

Post Number: 259
Registered: 11-2004
Posted on Wednesday, September 05, 2007 - 1:54 am:   Edit Post

You can polish it without taking the whole thing apart it just takes a little longer.
As long as the parts are not corroding then leave it..the choice is yours. Like the idea of the rouge wheel, I have some powered rouge and I used that initially to get the shine back.
I just like things shiny!!!(is that perverse?? LOL)

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