| Author | Message | ||
| hieronymous
Intermediate Member Username: hieronymous Post Number: 181 Registered: 1-2005 |
Hi everybody, I tried to be good and looked around both in the FAQs and in the forums and searched, but didn't find what I was looking for. So here's my question: Is there anything I should know about adjusting the bridge saddles on my old Series I? Do I need to loosen the nuts on the pickup side before turning the screw on the tailpiece side? Only when going in one direction? I'm sorry, it's probably a really simple question, but my brain just won't go beyond "righty-tighty lefty loosey" right now! Here's a picture in case I'm not making sense:  I almost posted this in "troubleshooting" but it's not really a problem, so I thought this area was more appropriate. | ||
| adriaan
Senior Member Username: adriaan Post Number: 1592 Registered: 6-2002 |
As far as I can tell, you just need to turn the bolts, and the saddle will move. The nuts are there only for keeping everything in place. | ||
| terryc
Advanced Member Username: terryc Post Number: 255 Registered: 11-2004 |
Could do with cleaning all the tarnish off and a good polish!!!! | ||
| serialnumber12
Advanced Member Username: serialnumber12 Post Number: 377 Registered: 12-2004 |
Saddle adjustments has to do with intonation/set-up so you might wanna consider this too. | ||
| hieronymous
Intermediate Member Username: hieronymous Post Number: 182 Registered: 1-2005 |
Thanks everybody - I have been working on the intonation just a little bit, but maybe it's time I really go nuts - oil the fretboards, clean the bridge pieces, and do the full setup routine. I've found the "Joey's setup" thread, but I'm going to have to hunt for the brass-cleaning threads... | ||
| terryc
Advanced Member Username: terryc Post Number: 258 Registered: 11-2004 |
If there is any laquer on the brass this will have to be removed before you can polish the metal, use a paint stripper solution(obviously remove the hardware from the guitar or the consequences would be disasterous) the solution doesn't have be on long, use an old toothbrush to remove the residue - wear rubber/vinyl gloves to avoid contact dermatitis. Rinse in warm soapy water and dry with a soft towel and final dry in a warm oven or drying room(airing cupboard as we call them in the UK) Once dry use a good quality metal polish wadding, I personally think the wadding is best as it can be molded to get into the small areas but any high quality polish with a soft cloth will do. Brasso/Duraglit in the UK..Flitz in the US of A. Buff to high lustre with a clean cloth, you could re laquer after this with spray can products but I didn't bother. I would oil the fretboard if you have it all stripped off too, if it hasn't been done for a while then apply loads and let it soak in, be careful, lemon oil can cause irritation to the skin if you are sensitive to plant oils(as before use gloves) To get rid of the string 'tide marks' on the board you will have to massage the oil into the board. When you have done all this please post a pic on the forum to show off your hard work | ||
| keith_h
Senior Member Username: keith_h Post Number: 845 Registered: 2-2005 |
Alembic recommends Flitz polish. I've been using it and works well. Here is a link from the FAQ section. Keith | ||
| hieronymous
Intermediate Member Username: hieronymous Post Number: 183 Registered: 1-2005 |
Thanks again. My immediate project is working on my '67 Starfire I which I recently took possession of - gonna change the strings and give it a setup. Then maybe I'll get to work on the doubleneck beyond setting the intonation. I gotta tell ya though, cleaning the bridge saddles seems a bit intimidating. I'm not the kind of person with a lot of clean, open spaces to lay things down. No tool bench or anything like that. So we'll see. I definitely want to oil the fretboards again though - I did last fall after I got it. So maybe that would be the time to set aside a few hours and do everything - assuming I can make the time! Does it really look that bad that I need to do it?  | ||
| crgaston
Senior Member Username: crgaston Post Number: 418 Registered: 11-2005 |
Heck, no, Harry. It's 30 years old. It's OK if it looks it. It's not like it's all green or anything. And once you break through the coating, you'll have to polish it all the time... If you like it, leave it. If you want it shiny, polish it. It's your bass. Charles | ||
| chuck
Advanced Member Username: chuck Post Number: 203 Registered: 3-2005 |
OK,let me say this about that.Some may be a bit intimadated by taking the bridge apart to do a really good job of this.My suggestion is to take all the brass,tailpeice and truss rod cover also to a jeweler and get them to buff it on the rouge wheel. If you lived near me I would do it for you in about 15 min. Afterwards clean off the residue{wax} with laquer thinner and spray with clear laquer.The best stuff I've found is the type used on trumpets ect.Don't use anything water based.It won't last. Jewelers also do gold plating at a very reasonable price. Chuck | ||
| terryc
Advanced Member Username: terryc Post Number: 259 Registered: 11-2004 |
You can polish it without taking the whole thing apart it just takes a little longer. As long as the parts are not corroding then leave it..the choice is yours. Like the idea of the rouge wheel, I have some powered rouge and I used that initially to get the shine back. I just like things shiny!!!(is that perverse?? LOL) |
