| Author | Message | ||
| neurotictim
Junior Username: neurotictim Post Number: 22 Registered: 1-2008 |
So, as I've said in previous posts, I spent a bunch of time yesterday cleaning my new (to me) Epic, which spent the last couple of years in storage. Check this out:  The neck had all these salt deposits on it from not getting the tender care Alembics deserve, so I settled in with some elbow grease and a couple of helpers...  My neighbor (who is also a bass player) suggested picking up the Watco stuff and a toothbrush for heavy-duty, non-destructive cleaning. Best advice ever, so far, on cleaning stuff. Good for the wood, good for cleaning at the same time. The toothbrush got a lot of use, but in the end:  This pic is not quite the same angle, but you can tell how remarkable the difference is. In fairness, the camera brought out the worst in the first pic, but a little elbow grease, a toothbrush, and the rejuvenating oil (with a rub in the Dr. Stringfellow lemon treatment, which I've used for years, afterwards) makes this fretboard look brand new. BTW, the pic was taken after I gave the fretboard time to dry... That's how it looks now. | ||
| bassjigga
Advanced Member Username: bassjigga Post Number: 288 Registered: 8-2005 |
Wow what a difference! | ||
| neurotictim
Junior Username: neurotictim Post Number: 23 Registered: 1-2008 |
Yeah, one more pic. Someone here suggested I take pics of the bridge, to help with re-assembly. Thank you very much, I wouldn't have thought of it, and it was helpful indeed. (I tried searching for the post, I don't remember who said it, but anyway...) A little Brasso, another toothbrush, and here's what it looked like all taken apart on my coffee table:  Fairly complicated, and even with the pictures I managed to put the saddles on backwards... then took them off, went outside to smoke, and came back in and put the right back on... backwards! I did eventually get it right, though, and now she's preeetttty. (BTW, those aren't dings on the side, near the top horn and up near the toothbrush - they're dots from the Brasso that came flying off of the toothbrush - and they wiped right off.) | ||
| tbrannon
Senior Member Username: tbrannon Post Number: 623 Registered: 11-2004 |
Tim, It was me that suggested you use the digital camera- it wasn't my own revelation... somebody else here gave me the tip when I got my bass. I was very happy they suggested it once I had all those little pieces laying on the table! Looks like you did a bang up job on the fretboard. Post some more pictures once you have it all back together~ Toby | ||
| neurotictim
Junior Username: neurotictim Post Number: 25 Registered: 1-2008 |
Yep, I'm happy. I'm glad you passed that little tidbit along, thanks. I'll wait for the neck to settle, put the truss rod cover back on, and try to get some good shots tomorrow. | ||
| funkyjazzjunky
Junior Username: funkyjazzjunky Post Number: 42 Registered: 5-2007 |
Thank you for the tips | ||
| bigredbass
Senior Member Username: bigredbass Post Number: 1276 Registered: 9-2002 |
I'll pass along my 'Hints from Heloise' list of chemical sundries to keep around for Bass Cleaning Day: 1) BreakFree CLP. This is under the category of good for guns, good for basses! BF is one of these 'wonder lubes' full of all manner of unpronounceable petroleum distallates, teflon, etc. This is perfect for the saddle screws, any moving parts. It's totally inert as far as finishes, electronics, etc. A little dab and no moving part will ever sweat shut again. This is THE s**t for Floyds. Most proper firearm stores have it, as well as W**-***t. 2) REALLY good car wax (Mother's, Zymol, Meguiar's, etc.) is great, obviously for gloss finish axes. But it's really good for plated parts. Ever get a used axe with gold or chrome keys and you just can't get the fingerprints out of the button on the tuning key? This will. It also polishes the crap out of brass! 3) Alberto VO5, the cream hairdressing in the toothpaste tube. After you polish/wax your plated or brass parts, a very thin film of this (think of the very light coat of gun oil you'd leave on the Beretta or H+K after you clean it) will keep that stuff shiny a LOT longer. It's completely organic and harmless to anything on a bass. Oh yeah: We ALL put the saddles on backwards the first time! You're really part of The Club now ! J o e y | ||
| jake
Member Username: jake Post Number: 56 Registered: 3-2003 |
Alberto V05? that's a new one. | ||
| adriaan
Senior Member Username: adriaan Post Number: 1768 Registered: 6-2002 |
Actually, VO5 has been mentioned numerous times on this board. Not sure what it is called in Europe. | ||
| jacko
Senior Member Username: jacko Post Number: 1594 Registered: 10-2002 |
it's called V05 over here too;-) graeme | ||
| pauldo
Junior Username: pauldo Post Number: 28 Registered: 6-2006 |
Does the hardware (bridge, etc) have threaded inserts in the body? I would love to strip down my distillate but would be afraid of stripping the threads in the body. Anyone ever strip a Distillate down? | ||
| jake
Member Username: jake Post Number: 57 Registered: 3-2003 |
It should be fine unless you overtorque them. They're a lot less likely to strip than wood screws. | ||
| neurotictim
Junior Username: neurotictim Post Number: 30 Registered: 1-2008 |
Nope, not on mine. I second Jake's opinion, though. Just tighten them up enough, you don't have to wrench on them. | ||
| byoung
Senior Member Username: byoung Post Number: 940 Registered: 12-2004 |
Paul, Pretty much everything on an Alembic (notable exception: strap locks) has threaded inserts. I don't know if this goes all the way back, but my '98 Epic certainly has them. Bradley | ||
| dannobasso
Senior Member Username: dannobasso Post Number: 698 Registered: 3-2004 |
My 83 spoiler lacks inserts for the truss rod cover and plate on the back. | ||
| pauldo
Junior Username: pauldo Post Number: 29 Registered: 6-2006 |
My 84 Distillate has threaded inserts for the back cover - not sure about anything else... Any of the Alembic employee's have insight? thanks! | ||
| lbpesq
Senior Member Username: lbpesq Post Number: 2923 Registered: 7-2004 |
Threaded inserts were not originally on Alembics, but are often added to the old ones when they go home for a visit. Bill, tgo | ||
| davehouck
Moderator Username: davehouck Post Number: 6132 Registered: 5-2002 |
The tailpiece has wood screws. | ||
| pauldo
Junior Username: pauldo Post Number: 30 Registered: 6-2006 |
Dave - should I be afraid? The idea of what Timothy did (at the beginning of this post) is something that I would love to do. But I am afraid. . . this is my main squeeze - the one I come home to at night - the catalyst to my emotional release - my muse....... what if she is never the same again ? !!!! | ||
| terryc
Senior Member Username: terryc Post Number: 440 Registered: 11-2004 |
Pauldo--when I bought my MK Signature from Rudy Music Stop and brought it home to the UK it was in good condition but the laquer on the brass hardware had broken down and the brass was tarnished. I stripped the whole lot down, everyting came off, tuners, bridge, tail piece, the pu's and electronics along with the controls. I removed the old laquer, oiled the board, cleaned and polished everything BUT it took time, not 1 day or 2 but over a week. It can be done because they are designed like that, just take your time. Use a digital camera to take pics prior to disassembly as a reference guide. The effort will be worth it | ||
| davehouck
Moderator Username: davehouck Post Number: 6142 Registered: 5-2002 |
Generally, I think doing maintenance and caring for your Alembic yourself is a good thing. I think you should read everything you can here on the site about whatever it is you want to do. For instance, until they've read it here, most folks probably wouldn't know that brass polisher should only be used on the bridge and not on the plated surfaces like the tailpiece. And knowing how to treat the fretboard is another example. I've never completely stripped a bass all at once. I have removed a tailpiece; I took my time and did it carefully. It's not something that happens often, so if you're careful, it shouldn't be a problem. But yes, I'm not inclined to remove the tailpiece unless I have to; I figure everytime you do, it loosens that connection a little. Everytime I've disassembled a bridge for cleaning, oiling and polishing, it's taken me a couple of days. My fingers get fatigued polishing all the little parts. Always be careful removing the truss rod cover; it's easily scratched. If it's stuck, resist the urge to pry it up with a screwdriver. In fact, anytime you're working with a screwdriver on your bass, you should focus and take your time; it's easy to slip and scratch the instrument somewhere. When removing the knobs, know what you are doing before hand. The different styles require different methods. If you need to tighten the nut that holds the control to the body, do so carefully, mindful not to scratch the body. So, think through what it is you want to do; run searches and post questions. | ||
| pauldo
Junior Username: pauldo Post Number: 31 Registered: 6-2006 |
Terry / Dave Thanks for the input - I feel my confidence growing. I need to find when I will have an appropriate amount of down time to do the job carefully and without rushing. A camera is a great idea - I have used that on my other 'baby' - my 93 YJ (jeep wrangler):-) Only difference is sometimes I need to use a BFH (big friggin' hammer). :-D |
