| Author | Message | ||
| frank
Junior Username: frank Post Number: 45 Registered: 12-2005 |
Whenever I'm stringing my orion I always have one problem. the Tailpiece doesn't hold the string in place. I have to leave it out of the bridge and tailpiece until there is enough tension for the string to stay in the tailpiece. I was wondering if anyone has a good solution to this problem. | ||
| bassman10096
Senior Member Username: bassman10096 Post Number: 1142 Registered: 7-2003 |
I know it's a bit a of a pain, but I kind of like bridges and tailpieces where the string "floats" till tension is on. The reason is that getting the string wrapped around the tuner capstan and getting the slack tightened down always seems to create a bit of twist. Given that, I want the other end to rotate freely (to undo the twist) for as long as possible. Sometimes begs for a third hand, but managable. The payoff is less chance of twisted, dead strings. | ||
| frank
Junior Username: frank Post Number: 46 Registered: 12-2005 |
ya, that does make sense. | ||
| jazzyvee
Senior Member Username: jazzyvee Post Number: 1188 Registered: 6-2002 |
I can tell you from my experience, trying to change a string break on a big gig I was so pleased that I didn't have to find the whole in the back of the guitar to push the string through all the time hoping the broken string wasn't stuck in the whole and blocking the way for the new string. Sotting the string in is much easier in those situations. Especially if you have a whammy bar and the holes are not lined up with the slot in the backplate.... Cursing becomes very fluent. The worst was the parker Fly guitar I had, When a string broke in that it was a nightmare to change as the string locking mechanism in the tuners meant that you could only slide the string in when the hole was in a certain position. On a dark stage it was virtually impossible. it was sacked and sold after that gig. lol I think Alembic have it right. It's something I don't even think about anymore. | ||
| frank
Junior Username: frank Post Number: 47 Registered: 12-2005 |
Those would be problems more associated with string-through-body bridges. I find the bridge on my dads 60s p-bass the easiest to use with regards to stringing. I know my brother, who plays a strat (w/ tremolo) has definitly had the problem with getting broken stings stuck in the the body-through part. I am willing to make the extra-effort stringing to play such a great bass though. plus I love the look of the bridge and tailpiece on my orion. by the way jazzy, I love that orion guitar on your profile...is it baritone? Looks wicked! | ||
| u14steelgtr
Member Username: u14steelgtr Post Number: 85 Registered: 7-2003 |
The trick is detailed in step #5 (below). 1. Put the string throught the tuning machine. 2. Put the ball-end of the string in to the tailpeice and adjust the string length (approximately) by sliding the string in the tuning machine. 3. Make a slight bend in the string where the string passes through the tuning machine. This marks the adjustment in step 2. 4. Remove the ball-end of the string from the tailpeice and make 1 wrap around the tuning machine post, then re-insert the ball-end in to the tailpeice. 5. With one hand pull the string away from the body (to maintain string tension) and use the other hand to operate the knob on the tuning machine until the string is snugly seated in the tailpeice. 6. Bring the string up to pitch. Regards -- Eugene (Message edited by u14steelgtr on June 09, 2008) | ||
| bassman10096
Senior Member Username: bassman10096 Post Number: 1143 Registered: 7-2003 |
Step #5 was the step I meant when I said, "Sometimes begs for a third hand, but managable." The key to avoiding twist is in step #4. Your instructions are foolproof and hopefully will help someone prevent a dead string or two. | ||
| frank
Junior Username: frank Post Number: 48 Registered: 12-2005 |
nice. Thanks. Any tips for measuring how long to make the string before cutting it? I have a 5 string so the machine heads go 3 and t2 on he headstock. I like to have at least 2-3 turns around the post. | ||
| cozmik_cowboy
Advanced Member Username: cozmik_cowboy Post Number: 312 Registered: 10-2006 |
Hey, Frank, here's a tip for your brother - I always keep the ball end of an old low E near the Strat; clip it so there's about 1.5-2" of string on it. When a broken string gets stuck, poke it in from the top. Hasn't failed me yet. Peter | ||
| u14steelgtr
Member Username: u14steelgtr Post Number: 86 Registered: 7-2003 |
If the guess-timated length is long enough that you can "re-insert the ball-end in to the tailpeice" (step 4); the you will get atleast your 2-3 wraps around the post. -E | ||
| u14steelgtr
Member Username: u14steelgtr Post Number: 87 Registered: 7-2003 |
I do not cut the string until it is up to pitch and is holding pitch. -E | ||
| pauldo
Member Username: pauldo Post Number: 53 Registered: 6-2006 |
"Any tips for measuring how long to make the string before cutting it? " It took me several years but I have 'landmarks' that I use on my Distillate - the E* and G strings get cut about a half inch past the end of the A and D tuner pegs. The A and D strings get cut at the bottom of the cloud on the Alembic design. This gives me approximately 3 wraps. *The E string actually gets cut shorter because I have a Hip-Shot D-tuner that has a shorter post and can not fit 3 wraps without doubling up. Try doing something similar with your Orion - it should serve you well. cheers | ||
| keurosix
Advanced Member Username: keurosix Post Number: 326 Registered: 10-2005 |
Frank, This is for basses: I usually insert the ball into the tailpiece, bring the string up to it's tuning post, curl over the top and go past ~ the width of my hand. I cut the string using a heavy wire cutter (only on the silk wrap portion). Keeping the string pulled tight, I insert the cut end into the center of the tuning post, bend down at the slot of the post and wrap at least the first turn around the post by hand. The rest easily wraps up by the tuning key. I always get 3 wraps on the peg using this method, and you can easily unhook the ball to untwist the string once the first wrap is on the post. My advise is to make sure the string you use is a match to the scale length of your guitar, or else you might end up with wrap in the nut or speaking length on the peg, both undesireables. Some strings do not have a silk wrap (DR is one) and I just make sure I do not cut too far into the string. I have not had a problem with the cut end captured inside the center of the tuning peg. It won't unravel since I also put a 90 deg bend in the string as it comes out of the tuning peg slot. Eugene's method of cutting the string after it is at pitch requires you to allow the uncut extra to dangle out of the tuner and cut it as close to the side as you can get. This leaves a rough cut end that can grab onto things and scratch clothes, etc. IMO it looks less clean. Kris | ||
| frank
Junior Username: frank Post Number: 49 Registered: 12-2005 |
sounds like a good technique, but what do you mean by "...curlover the top and go past ~ the width of my hand." | ||
| dannobasso
Senior Member Username: dannobasso Post Number: 758 Registered: 3-2004 |
For me , put ball end in tailpiece, lay string over the nut, (while bass is on my lap) measure the width of 4 fingers past the tuning peg ( the ol' is this knife illegal test) cut the string, put the newly cut end of the string down center hole, wrap around the peghead, ( remember which side of the pegehead it must go on) tension (tune) the string while using right hand to hold tension on the string close to the nut. Bring it to pitch, tug on it roughly, bring to pitch again and repeat as needed. I only change 1 string at a time. For guitars, I use sperzels so no issues there. | ||
| keith_h
Senior Member Username: keith_h Post Number: 1036 Registered: 2-2005 |
I thought the 4 finger test was used to verify the size of a lid of pot. Keith | ||
| keurosix
Advanced Member Username: keurosix Post Number: 328 Registered: 10-2005 |
Frank, What I mean to say is: Once the string is at the tuning post, wrap the string over the top of the post and point it toward the outside of the peghead perpendicular to the neck. Put four fingers adjacent to the tuning post on the side of the exiting string to measure the length to trim the string to. You're right - the curl thing sounds like an exercise machine owner's manual printed in Taiwan to English transcription of. If this is too abstract, I'll have to take some pictures, cuz - Confucius say: "A picture is worth a thousand words". | ||
| keurosix
Advanced Member Username: keurosix Post Number: 329 Registered: 10-2005 |
Oh yeah, one more detail: When I finally get the string on the tuning peg with one wrap, I hold it in tension (like Danno said) and start to turn the tuning key to get 2 more wraps on the peg. I always add wraps working down to the bottom so the string that exits the tuning peg going to the nut is at the bottom of the peg. This keeps it in proper tension between the peg and the nut, and minimizes any tendancy for the string to pop out of the string slot in the nut during aggressive playing. And yes to Dannos method of tugging on the string to pre-tension it. This helps it stay in tune quicker. (Message edited by keurosix on June 10, 2008) | ||
| dannobasso
Senior Member Username: dannobasso Post Number: 760 Registered: 3-2004 |
I thought that the lids were made to fit the pots when you bought them? | ||
| pauldo
Member Username: pauldo Post Number: 54 Registered: 6-2006 |
"I thought the 4 finger test was used to verify the size of a lid of pot." Keith! A lid? You're kinda showing your age using that term..... either that or you're so incredibly hip that you can pull off any era's lingo! :-) | ||
| keith_h
Senior Member Username: keith_h Post Number: 1037 Registered: 2-2005 |
Paul, Lets just say I have more gray hairs than I would like. Keith | ||
| frank
Junior Username: frank Post Number: 50 Registered: 12-2005 |
Thanks everyone. Now If only I could afford to buy new strings. By the way...has anyone heard of R. Coco Strings? I threw them on my orion 2or3 weeks ago andI found that they were way to bright. Sounded good for slap though. I broke the G-string 1st day!! Not cool! Didn't see it coming and It seemed unprovoked. I wasn't playing rough or playing slap at the time. I stretched the string a lttile after stringing too. Weak string or what? | ||
| keurosix
Advanced Member Username: keurosix Post Number: 330 Registered: 10-2005 |
Frank, Did the string break at the bridge? Usually there is a sharp edge on the bridge saddle facing the speaking side of the string. This is for intonation accuracy. You may need to deburr it. Kris | ||
| davehouck
Moderator Username: davehouck Post Number: 6656 Registered: 5-2002 |
I haven't seen my method mentioned yet, so I'll add it to the others. - Line tuner slot parallel to fretboard. - Insert ball-end in tailpiece slot. - Run string through slot in tuner. - At appropriate distance past tuner, take needlenose pliers and make a 90° bend in the string facing down toward the floor (if bass is lying flat on workbench). - About 3/8" past bend, cut excess string. - With the tuner slot still parallel to fretboard, put bent end of string in hole in tuner. - Check ball-end for twisting and snugness and pull taut with right hand above instrument. - Beginning winding with left hand. I've read that three wraps are ideal. Works for me. The theory behind making the 90° bend first and then cutting the excess is that this decreases the possibility of the string wraps becoming loose. The bend also keeps the string in the hole when pulled taut. The right hand is responsible for keeping the string high enough that the silk doesn't grab on the nut while the string is being wrapped around the tuner. | ||
| elwoodblue
Advanced Member Username: elwoodblue Post Number: 345 Registered: 6-2002 |
Frank, I was having that problem with guitar strings, maybe a little more expected...still stings. I use ernie ball super slinky's by the box and every third set or so the high e would unravel or break right at the ball end during a light prestretching. At first I thought it was me pulling too hard until it became a pattern...so there are sucky strings out there. I like the ernie balls for the availability and price ...so I emailed the company and firmly asked for some free strings to make up for all the broken ones...three days later...voila ten free reinforced high e's in my mailbox. If it happens more than twice it's worth asking.'Ernie Ball' appreciated the feedback so it's good for all. | ||
| frank
Member Username: frank Post Number: 51 Registered: 12-2005 |
to be honest I can't remember where the string broke. My brother uses slinky's and buys them buy the case and hasn't had a problem yet. I guess he's just lucky eh. |
