| Author | Message | ||
| jx2638
Junior Username: jx2638 Post Number: 20 Registered: 2-2008 |
Is it possible to purchase wood plates to replace the 3 metal plates on my Tribute? Although it wouldn't be an identical match I still think it would look killer!!! | ||
| bsee
Senior Member Username: bsee Post Number: 2104 Registered: 3-2004 |
The problem is that the metal plates are thinner than either wood or plastic would be. When I realized how heavy the brass was, I wanted to do something about it as well. I was quite disappointed that it wasn't going to work. There might be a way, but I don't know of a good one. -bob | ||
| jx2638
Junior Username: jx2638 Post Number: 26 Registered: 2-2008 |
Thanks Bob...anyone else have any insight? Is this swap doable? Thanks. | ||
| terryc
Senior Member Username: terryc Post Number: 653 Registered: 11-2004 |
Why not make your own, I am sure there are plenty of wood suppliers out there that can almost match your guitar wood or a contrasting wood can be used. Would be a good project, beg/borrow a quality jig saw and a set of fine drills and sandpaper and try it. Don't forget to paint the inner faces with silver paint to prevent RF inductance. Might even have a go myself since my cavity plate is black plastic. | ||
| jx2638
Junior Username: jx2638 Post Number: 27 Registered: 2-2008 |
A wonderfully ambitious thought/venture!! And could trace around existing plate(s). But purchasing from the best would also be a great option! Thanks Terry. | ||
| mica
Moderator Username: mica Post Number: 5728 Registered: 6-2000 |
Bob's right - the metal plates are thinner than the wooden ones, so installed in the existing routes, the plate will protrude from the back of the instrument. If the electronics and the remaining wood allow, you can make the plate shelf deeper to accommodate the thicker plate. The original continuous wood backplates were a veneer applied to a brass plate. This didn't work out well with Coco Bolo and other Rosewoods (cracks!), but did okay most of the time on other woods. You can swap out plastic for wood as far as thickness is concerned. In any case, we need the original plates back here if we're making them to assure a good fit. | ||
| dbc
New Username: dbc Post Number: 1 Registered: 11-2007 |
What is the actual purpose of the cover plate being made of brass? Electronics Shielding,additional mass for sustain, weight added to rear to help with balance reducing a neck heavy scenario? | ||
| jx2638
Junior Username: jx2638 Post Number: 29 Registered: 2-2008 |
Thanks Mica...figured it was a long shot but wanted to make sure nonethelesss. | ||
| white_cloud
Senior Member Username: white_cloud Post Number: 548 Registered: 11-2007 |
Simple solution ; veneer a thin piece of mdf with your wood veneer of choice by using contact adhesive, then cut roughly oversize with your original plate as the template. Now stick the original plate to your new veneered one with double sided sticky tape and simply trim to fit using a flush trim router bit fitted to a power router ....voila - totally perfect fit. Cant find mdf thin enough? Hardboard could be the answer. Take your time and it could really work out. | ||
| jx2638
Junior Username: jx2638 Post Number: 30 Registered: 2-2008 |
Nice!! | ||
| bsee
Senior Member Username: bsee Post Number: 2106 Registered: 3-2004 |
I was thinking you'd have to make a sandwich involving something like a carbon fiber plate to get thin and stiff. Either that, or coat with so many layers of acrylic it might as well be plastic. | ||
| mica
Moderator Username: mica Post Number: 5729 Registered: 6-2000 |
The brass is conveniently conductive for shielding, and can be thin to allow for plenty of room in the electronics cavity for the electronics - important on the Series I and II when the preamp card and harness were on the same side. After that, it's just tradition. You really can't counterbalance with weight on the body end in a meaningful way without making it way too heavy to want to play. |
