Author |
Message |
ajdover
Junior Username: ajdover
Post Number: 14 Registered: 11-2003
| Posted on Friday, December 05, 2003 - 5:30 pm: | |
Anyone know where I can get some lemon oil for my fretboard? Thanks, Alan |
mica
Moderator Username: mica
Post Number: 1287 Registered: 6-2000
| Posted on Friday, December 05, 2003 - 5:32 pm: | |
You can get pure lemon oil from most health food stores. |
janriviere
Member Username: janriviere
Post Number: 94 Registered: 5-2002
| Posted on Friday, December 05, 2003 - 9:42 pm: | |
So Mica, I may put the lemon oil I normally use in the kictchen on my fretboard(s) ?
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bob
Member Username: bob
Post Number: 90 Registered: 11-2002
| Posted on Friday, December 05, 2003 - 11:25 pm: | |
Okay, let's get this cleared up... As we know, Jan-the-river-one, you've been hanging out with Paul TBO, who uses extra virgin olive oil on his fretboard, apparently with great success (do a search on "olive"). But some of us think that a bit, well... unusual (though no reason at all to think it's bad, it just never occurred to us). What you've posted here looks to me like lemon-flavored olive oil, if my limited Spanish(?) serves me. There is also what those of us in the US would find, in the furniture polish section of stores, labeled as lemon oil. "Old English" is a popular brand, which I believe is mostly a mineral oil product with some lemon thrown in to make it smell a bit nicer. Another brand here is Jasco, again mostly mineral oil, and maybe a bit better quality, but same idea. Mica has suggested using the pure extract of lemon skin, as you would find in a health foods store. No olives, no "minerals" (oil from a stone?), just the pure oil you would get by squashing the very outer skin, or zest, of a lemon. In some places, certainly here in California, you can also find "pure" lime, orange, and a few other varieties. When Mica talks about these in person, her whole body relaxes, and she wistfully describes the "long-chain turpene molecules" (something like that, I'm not going to research tonight), and how good they are for replenishing wood, perhaps ebony in particular. And at one point, she mentioned how great it was to throw in a few drops of tangerine oil, though that was mostly for the sensation of smell. Personally, so far I've used both Old English and Jasco, but am about to switch to pure lemon when my new instrument arrives. I don't know what all this means, but I do have a sense that the citrus-based extracts may be somehow superior to those from olives or "minerals". If anyone out there can shed some light on this, it would be appreciated. |
palembic
Senior Member Username: palembic
Post Number: 796 Registered: 9-2002
| Posted on Saturday, December 06, 2003 - 2:36 am: | |
I can be mistaken but in my humble stupidiity I thought that the oil is to feed the surface of the fretboard. When it's drying out -it's mostly pure wood exposed to the elements- it need oil to be feeded. IMHO the lemon part is added for colour (lemon oil is lighter) or for cleaning at the same time you feed (I was thinking about the lemon = acid aspect ). I know it sounds extremely dumb but indeed I use olive oil sparsely. I can clean a neck with some cloth and light soapy water but aferwards I use a small brush to "paint" the olive oil over it. let it work for some hours, restart and finally wipe off the excess with dry cloth. I have a neck as a brand new instrument, ask Jan the River one. Paul the bad one |
glocke
New Username: glocke
Post Number: 9 Registered: 9-2002
| Posted on Saturday, December 06, 2003 - 3:50 am: | |
I use bore oil for horns on the fretboards of my jazz basses. I was told my someone fairly knowledgeable about jazz basses that lemon oil can discolor mother of pearl block inlays on my jazz basses. |
ajdover
Junior Username: ajdover
Post Number: 15 Registered: 11-2003
| Posted on Saturday, December 06, 2003 - 8:08 am: | |
Thanks for the info to all. I'll check out a health food store today! Alan |
janriviere
Member Username: janriviere
Post Number: 95 Registered: 5-2002
| Posted on Saturday, December 06, 2003 - 9:08 am: | |
From my part, also a big thank you Bob. You explained it very well, I'll have a look for the Old English and Jasco. Cheers Jan
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dela217
Advanced Member Username: dela217
Post Number: 233 Registered: 6-2002
| Posted on Saturday, December 06, 2003 - 11:47 am: | |
What happens if you do not oil the fingerboard? I have never oiled the fingerboards on my Alembics. Some of these basses I have had for 20 years. I have heard that they could crack. Can that really happen? I have yet to see it, but I live in an area with VERY high humidity. |
davehouck
Advanced Member Username: davehouck
Post Number: 230 Registered: 5-2002
| Posted on Saturday, December 06, 2003 - 11:48 am: | |
Just to add to the choices for your consideration; I'm using Stewart-MacDonald's Fretboard Finishing Oil. [edited to condense URL]
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spliffy
Junior Username: spliffy
Post Number: 19 Registered: 3-2003
| Posted on Monday, December 08, 2003 - 11:59 am: | |
Anyone use or hear about snake oil? I believe it is used for brass instruments, but was told it is effective on wood!!! I dunno???? |
kmh364
Junior Username: kmh364
Post Number: 12 Registered: 9-2003
| Posted on Wednesday, December 10, 2003 - 7:05 am: | |
If you'll allow me to throw my two cents in: I have used "lemon oil" (i.e., Olde English, Formby's, etc. - those with petroleum solvents in addition to "lemon oil") for more than 20 years on my guitar's fingerboards (and wood bridges on acoustics)without a problem. It keeps the wood looking great, and it also smells pleasant. Some Manufacturers say use it, others say no way. Mica says use only pure lemon oil (no solvents). My Guitar repair guy (He's a noted Luthier/Repairman with over 30 years experience, including OEM warrantee repairs - name, address and phone available upon request)says no way to lemon oil of any kind. He uses a catalyzing finishing oil (i.e., tung oil)that hardens within a day or so. He claims that lemon oil never truly dries and only serves to keep the wood "soggy" instead of hardening it, which ruins the tone. Don't believe it? Hit a dried piece of wood against a hard surface and listen to the sound it makes, then hit the same surface with a thoroughly water saturated piece of the same wood and see if you can tell the difference in tone. |
811952
Junior Username: 811952
Post Number: 37 Registered: 10-2003
| Posted on Wednesday, December 10, 2003 - 8:09 am: | |
Tung oil is what I've always used, with good results. |
bob
Member Username: bob
Post Number: 91 Registered: 11-2002
| Posted on Wednesday, December 10, 2003 - 10:36 am: | |
Dave, can you tell us anything more about what's in Steward-MacDonald's Fretboard Finishing Oil? There aren't any details available on their site, maybe something more on the bottle itself? Personally I'm a little skeptical about "hardening" oils, but I'm curious. I've used mostly Old English on my fretless ebony fingerboard for more than 12 years (in fact, on the entire body as well) and if anything, it both looks and sounds better over time - certainly not "waterlogged". |
mica
Moderator Username: mica
Post Number: 1299 Registered: 6-2000
| Posted on Wednesday, December 10, 2003 - 10:37 am: | |
Our standard figerboard is unfinished. Pure tung oil always seems a litle tacky to the touch. Polymerized tung oil like kmh's repairman uses finishes the fingerboard and will feel different from a more raw board. Formby's has wax in it, which won' hurt anything exept the next set of strings you put on your instrument. As Bob stated eariler, we like the lemon oil because it replaces some of the large molecules that evaporate out of the wood as it ages, and leaves the fingerboard unfinished with the nice touch of the natural wood. Cracks in the board start at cells where one of these large heavy turpines has evaporated. The heavy turpines in lemon oil are similar to the ones in ebony, so it's not like soaking it in water, more like ebony juice ;) and just replacing what was lost. I've heard horror stories about lemon oils (the solvent types). A friend of mine hurt his Les Paul after vigorous over oiling with a solvent based lemon oil. He oiled it for months nearly everyday to the point of oversaturation. The fingerboard started to separate from the neck! Now, I suppose the oil may not have been to blame, but it does make one wonder. With the pure lemon oil, you only use a scant amount, it cleans up easy, nourishes the wood, smells nice and makes the ebony a rich wonderful black. Just like most things, there's no one correct way to care for the fingerboard. There's lots of products out there we have no experience with, and unless something will actually hurt the wood, if it works for you, I wouldn't worry. |
kayo
Junior Username: kayo
Post Number: 23 Registered: 10-2002
| Posted on Wednesday, December 10, 2003 - 11:09 am: | |
Bob: This is the response I received from a Stewart Representative to that very question: -----Original Message----- From: Stewart-MacDonald Advice [mailto:info@stewmac.com] Sent: Wednesday, December 10, 2003 6:53 AM To: oscarurcuyo@dochs.org Subject: Re: Stewart-MacDonald: Inquiry (Thread:9642) Oscar, Thank you for your email. There is no warranty with the fretboard finishing oil. If it is applied improperly, we are not responsible. Complete instructions are on the container. If you have concerns about using the product, we suggest taking the guitar to a reputable repair person in your area to have them apply it. The oil is primarily Teak oil with petroleum distillates. You may consider trying the oil out on some scrap to help determine if you will get the desired results. Best Regards, Erick Coleman Technical Department Stewart-MacDonald 1-800-848-2273 www.stewmac.com __________________________ RE: Your Fretboard Finishing Oil..... is there any warranties associated with this product - as in - if it damages my fretboard will you pay for it? What are the ingredients?
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kmh364
Junior Username: kmh364
Post Number: 13 Registered: 9-2003
| Posted on Wednesday, December 10, 2003 - 11:33 am: | |
Mica, since you're a staunch 100% Natural Lemon Oil advocate, have you considered carrying some for retail sale in the Alembic Store? It seems like it would end of a lot of confusion over which products to use on an unfinished Alembic fingerboard if customers could buy a recommended product directly from you. |
eastcoastepic
Junior Username: eastcoastepic
Post Number: 11 Registered: 10-2003
| Posted on Wednesday, December 10, 2003 - 1:07 pm: | |
I picked up some Lemon Oil at the Sam Ash website to clean up my recently purchased used Epic, and it worked rather well. Apply lightly and wipe off excess from board & frets...I've been told by my local luthier that frequent applications may soften the fretboard and loosen the frets, so I treat mine only once a year. [edited to condense URL] |
dnburgess
Intermediate Member Username: dnburgess
Post Number: 146 Registered: 1-2003
| Posted on Wednesday, December 10, 2003 - 2:09 pm: | |
Mica - would pure essential oil be ok? Is there anything special to use for cleaning frets? What about brass work - I presume Brasso is ok? |
davehouck
Advanced Member Username: davehouck
Post Number: 235 Registered: 5-2002
| Posted on Wednesday, December 10, 2003 - 5:22 pm: | |
Bob; For "contents", all the label says is "petroleum distillates". The label also says that it "penetrates the wood and dries hard, unlike linseed or other oil finishes which may become sticky when warm. It will not harm frets or inlays. Not for use on finished maple fretboards." David; Here's what I use for brass: http://store.yahoo.com/alembic/flitmetpol.html |
janriviere
Intermediate Member Username: janriviere
Post Number: 101 Registered: 5-2002
| Posted on Thursday, December 11, 2003 - 1:44 am: | |
I think kmh364 makes a very good suggestion. I am getting more and more confused about which oil I should buy. I have to admit that I have never oiled my fretboard in 13 years, but no problems so far. Alembic already offers a product to clean the body, so why not for the fretboard ? Cheers Jan |
mdrdvp
Member Username: mdrdvp
Post Number: 78 Registered: 7-2002
| Posted on Thursday, December 11, 2003 - 6:14 am: | |
Hi everybody in Belgium and Holland. I'm waiting for a e-mail message from Oil & Vinegar. They have all kinds of exclusive oils and vinegar with all kinds of flavours. I've asked for the pure Lemon Oil and will let you know. Check the website for their locations: http://www.oilvinegar.com/ or http://www.oilvinegar.nl/ Manfred |
s_wood
Member Username: s_wood
Post Number: 77 Registered: 5-2002
| Posted on Thursday, December 11, 2003 - 6:23 am: | |
Heres' another vote for the Stewart-MacDonald's Fretboard Finishing Oil. I've been using it on my fignerboards for several years, and I like it a lot. Tung oil and linseed oil are way too tacky...they leave a sticky residue on the fingerboard which is death to roundwound strings. Lemon oil, which I used to use a lot, seems to dry out the fingerboard. The Stew-Mac stuff, whatever it is, is perfect. I like to put it on when I 'm ready to change strings. With the old strings still on, I apply the oil and let it soak in for no more than 20 minutes before I wipe up the residue. Then, I wait a day and change the strings. Works great. |
mica
Moderator Username: mica
Post Number: 1309 Registered: 6-2000
| Posted on Thursday, December 11, 2003 - 6:24 am: | |
David - pure essential lemon oil is the lemon oil I'm talking about. Just a few drops along the board works great. Brasso should work fine, but the stuff I'm familiar with is in powder form, so it's a little hard to control. The Flitz Dave refers to is a paste and easy to keep off the intonation screws. It's abrasive enough to clean but it doesn't scratch. Any cleaner specifically for brass is appropriate, just be aware that some brass cleaners for very tough jobs may leave scratches that need to be buffed out. These cleaners should never be used on plated hardware or tuning keys. Lemon oil in the online store is in the works. I suspect it will be available during the beginning of next year. |
janriviere
Intermediate Member Username: janriviere
Post Number: 102 Registered: 5-2002
| Posted on Thursday, December 11, 2003 - 6:33 am: | |
Thanks Manfred ! I saw that "Oil & Vinegar" have shops in Belgium (Mechelen and Leuven), so that is good news for me and Paul TBO. Let us know if you receive some more information, that would be great. Steve, Stewart-MacDonald's is not an option for us in Europe, as they won't ship outside the US (Flammable! Cannot ship by air or outside the USA.) Mica, thanks for taking action to get this online at the Alembic e-store. Great intiative ! Cheers Jan |
mdrdvp
Member Username: mdrdvp
Post Number: 79 Registered: 7-2002
| Posted on Thursday, December 11, 2003 - 7:10 am: | |
Well, here's the disappointment. They have everything except Lemon Oil only the olive oil version with lemon. Yamaha and Dunlop seem to have it, so I'll continue my mission here. Sorry. Manfred |
palembic
Senior Member Username: palembic
Post Number: 817 Registered: 9-2002
| Posted on Thursday, December 11, 2003 - 7:18 am: | |
And Antwerp!! But ...Leuven?????? PTBO |
janriviere
Intermediate Member Username: janriviere
Post Number: 103 Registered: 5-2002
| Posted on Thursday, December 11, 2003 - 7:26 am: | |
Leuven is on http://www.oilvinegar.nl/ but not on http://www.oilvinegar.com/ :-) But I guess I'll wait until Mica gets it online.
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palembic
Senior Member Username: palembic
Post Number: 818 Registered: 9-2002
| Posted on Thursday, December 11, 2003 - 7:35 am: | |
Halleluia...this gets messy. I want to take some "conclusions" and PLEASE correct them: 1: Oil feeds. I mean ...the physical characteristics of oil are feeding wood and protects again drying out with f.i. loosening frets as a consequence. 2. there are different sources of oil vegetal and a petroleum distillates 3. Lemon oil is confusing: is it an vegetable oil (olive, corn, ....) where a lemon aspect is added to, or is it an oil taken from lemons (seeds, wood, grapes ...)??? 4. Mica explained that for ebony fingerboard the lemon aspect replaces some by time disappearing characterisctics from the wood. 5. There are "brands" using the name "lemon-oil" but I can't figure out yet what the "brass-instruments" are doing in these threats excpet of being a lubricant for slide trombones for instance. PLEASE conclude with me. Paul the bad one PS: story. You all remember me achieving this Fender Squire JB???? It was not played on for 6 years. The fingerboard (rosewood) had a kind of "hardboard" feel atlhough still nice in figures. I used the olive-oil and it REALLY feeds. Okay ...after a 6 years rest yoghourt could be as good but ...it seems about feeding and about cleaning here. |
mdrdvp
Member Username: mdrdvp
Post Number: 80 Registered: 7-2002
| Posted on Thursday, December 11, 2003 - 7:57 am: | |
http://www.thehouseofmusic.nl/accesoires.htm try this, it's at the bottom of the page. About 6 euro. Manfred |
davehouck
Advanced Member Username: davehouck
Post Number: 236 Registered: 5-2002
| Posted on Thursday, December 11, 2003 - 8:30 am: | |
Paul; regarding your point #3, reread Bob's post above wherein he states that the lemon oil Mica speaks of is "pure extract of lemon skin". |
kmh364
Junior Username: kmh364
Post Number: 14 Registered: 9-2003
| Posted on Thursday, December 11, 2003 - 9:54 am: | |
Thanks, Mica. S Wood: My personal experience with tung oil use on fingerboards (16 or so yrs. ago I used Watco Danish Oil Finish - Natural, no colorant)resulted in a sticky fingerboard and gummy strings. I don't what name brand my repair guy uses, but when I get my guitars back from him the fingerboard is not sticky and the strings are fresh. I think his trick is let the oil harden (dry) sufficiently, then he reinstalls the old strings and plays them in so they absorb any stray oil. When he's done, the guitar is great. He also polishes the fingerboard (wetsands)along with the frets, so the board is shiny, smooth and non-sticky with perfectly dressed frets. I'll ask him specifically what he does, and pass it on to the Collective Alembic Brotherhood as soon as I can. |