| Author | Message | ||
| flaxattack
Junior Username: flaxattack Post Number: 25 Registered: 4-2004 |
(Message edited by flaxattack on May 23, 2004) | ||
| ajdover
Member Username: ajdover Post Number: 61 Registered: 11-2003 |
I use Rotosound RS66LC's on all my basses except the Spyder and the Exploiter. On the Spyder, I'm currently using GHS Boomers, extra long scale, .40-.95, and on my Exploiter, I use RS66M (medium scale, .40-95). I use the GHS on the Spyder because that's what they have at Guitar Center, but I'm going to go on the web and order some RS66's for my Spyder through Just Strings. I've used Rotosounds since I've been playing (over 27 years). There was time that I used DRs (mainly because that's what was available), and they're good strings as well. I prefer Rotosound, however, since I'm a big John Entwistle, Chris Squire, Geddy Lee, Greg Lake, etc. fan, and I need that kind of sound. I've found that the Rotosounds give that to me reliably. I like the lighter gauge strings. Standard gauge strings seem like telephone poles to me, but hey, to each his own. The lighter gauge allows me to bend the string easier, makes popping and slapping easier, and are just better for me when playing a four set gig. Alan | ||
| flaxattack
Junior Username: flaxattack Post Number: 26 Registered: 4-2004 |
(Message edited by flaxattack on May 23, 2004) | ||
| alemboid
Member Username: alemboid Post Number: 58 Registered: 5-2003 |
I use Daddario Prisms. They are a steel round wound with a tapered B string for 5's and regular core for 4's. I've tried about every other option in manufacturers, and I found that the Prisms last longer, REALLY bring out the Alembic sound, are even in tone string to string, are reliable (can't tell you how many sets I've purchased by other brands that had a dead E, A, B or D string- only to ruin the set), and they are easy on the frets/fingers. Personally, I found that the coated strings like Elixers, Black Diamonds, Rotosounds, Fenders, DRs, La Bellas and so on seem to at least subtly affect the true tone of the instrument. After trying so many, Prisms are right for me. Only you know what really works for you. Now, if I could only have the money back that I wasted to find out the long, hard way! Bryant | ||
| palembic
Senior Member Username: palembic Post Number: 1318 Registered: 9-2002 |
I'm on Ernie Ball's "slinky" roundwounds for Bonnie. 2,5 years ...about 3 sets. They are OK to me. Oh ...I will change once but ...let's say ...not in the near future. PTBO | ||
| jseitang
Junior Username: jseitang Post Number: 19 Registered: 6-2002 |
flatwounds dadarios | ||
| frank_orlando
Junior Username: frank_orlando Post Number: 29 Registered: 8-2002 |
I am using GHS Boomers .045-.105 on my two short scales. I like the sound and feel. I didn't use Rotos even though they sounded great because they ate my frets...BUT... now that Rotosound makes a nickle plated Swing Bass String I am going to give them a try. Frank | ||
| ox_junior
Junior Username: ox_junior Post Number: 47 Registered: 3-2004 |
I use Rotosound RS66s on all my basses. Nothing else gives me the sound I need. Can't wait to put them on my new Spyder....that'll make it "official" then! Mike Bisch | ||
| keavin
Advanced Member Username: keavin Post Number: 320 Registered: 12-2002 |
old alembic (#12)just loves those "DR high beams," those strings just seems to bring out that good ole ripe age "alembic tone" in my old bass!!!, | ||
| flaxattack
Junior Username: flaxattack Post Number: 27 Registered: 4-2004 |
(Message edited by flaxattack on May 23, 2004) | ||
| rogertvr
Advanced Member Username: rogertvr Post Number: 231 Registered: 1-2003 |
The Dragon's Wing came fitted with Alembic strings - CX-3 (45 gauge, I think). Mica - where are the Elites I sent you?????? Anyway - didn't like the Alembic strings within about two nanoseconds of playing them. Too heavy and sounded like they were dead. I like a string with some ring in it, and CX-3 ain't it. So, I put some 35 gauge Elites on the DW pretty much a day or so after I'd got it home and decided that, in my own familiar environment, CX-3 weren't for me. The Elites are roundcore stainless steel roundwound. Do they ring and sustain? Oh yes! A couple of days ago I put some Status Hotwires on my 4001. Roundcore stainless steel roundwound precision hand-wound strings. They're lovely - best strings I've ever played. I consigned Rotosound to the bin (under protest, the bin had never actually done anything to offend me THAT much) years ago! Sorry to the Rotosound fans in here, but we're all entitled to our opinion. Anyway, on the 4001, the Status strings have given it something it's never had - midrange. It now has a firm and round bottom end, even more so than the Elites. One my criticisms of the Elites has been that the top can be harsh. The Status strings address that, whilst giving more sustain and balancing the midrange at the same time. I'll be fitting a set to the DW once the Elites have passed their useful life. I'll report back if anyone is interested. Cheers, Rog | ||
| flaxattack
Junior Username: flaxattack Post Number: 37 Registered: 4-2004 |
(Message edited by flaxattack on May 23, 2004) | ||
| xlrogue6
Member Username: xlrogue6 Post Number: 63 Registered: 8-2002 |
There you have it--the result of the WalMartization of retail. All the more reason to buy from guys who know their stuff (the Alembic "Authorized Dealers" list is a good place to start!) and can actually have an informed discussion about strings. They'll also know exactly where they are on the wall. | ||
| flaxattack
Junior Username: flaxattack Post Number: 42 Registered: 4-2004 |
my new british alembic buddy is ranty about stratus hotwires...33$ delivered to the states gonna give em try too | ||
| frank_orlando
Junior Username: frank_orlando Post Number: 31 Registered: 8-2002 |
Questions for those who are using Rotosound RS66s (and other stainless steel roundwounds)... Do you have to dress your frets periodically? Have you had to re-fret? If so can you comment on how long your frets lasted? Have you tried the new nickle plated version of the Rotos? Can you comment on the sound difference? Thanks, Frank | ||
| ox_junior
Junior Username: ox_junior Post Number: 48 Registered: 3-2004 |
Frank, I have only had to replace the frets on one of my basses after using Rotos, my '62 reissue Fender Jazz, a bass I've had for about 13 years. I haven't had a problem on my Alembic but I've only had it for less than a year. Haven't tried the nickle-plated version. Hope this helps. Mike | ||
| flaxattack
Junior Username: flaxattack Post Number: 44 Registered: 4-2004 |
thats the only bad rap on rotos- i dont know if its true or an attempt o make you buy something else but i wont risk it- there are soooo mnay strings out there... www.status-graphite.com i am gonna try the roundwires for $40 delivered- roger smith swear buy them and for a shot- how bad could it be wil plug in phil tonight and check out the ken smiths i put in and report back | ||
| gbarchus
Member Username: gbarchus Post Number: 62 Registered: 6-2002 |
With roundwounds, I think it depends on how much force you play with your left (fretting) hand. I play very forcefully and bend (vibrato) the strings a lot. With Rotosounds I was repeatedly dressing my frets. Now that I use flatwounds, the problem has all but disappeared. | ||
| gbarchus
Member Username: gbarchus Post Number: 63 Registered: 6-2002 |
By the way, when the fingerboard on my '66 Precision got so scalloped that it couldn't be re-fretted, I went fretless. | ||
| ox_junior
Member Username: ox_junior Post Number: 56 Registered: 3-2004 |
I don't play that hard with my left hand, perhaps that's what makes the difference for me. I hit fairly hard with my right hand, either picking or finger style. gbarchus - clever solution! | ||
| frank_orlando
Junior Username: frank_orlando Post Number: 32 Registered: 8-2002 |
Thanks... I am going to invest a few bucks and do some testing. I'll post my opinions when I'm done. Frank | ||
| dfung60
Junior Username: dfung60 Post Number: 38 Registered: 5-2002 |
With regard to Rotosounds (RS66 is my favorite 4-string set)... Rotosound Swing Bass was the very first stainless steel roundwound. Stainless is harder than nickel plated high-carbon steel and much harder than pure nickel winding wraps. That hardness is what gave them the super-bright tone when they were first introduced back in the late 60's. They retained that sound a little longer since fretting wouldn't deform the harder windings, too. The windings were less prone to corrosion from handling which helped keep the bright tone too. The problem is that the additional string hardness could cause more wear on the softer nickel-silver (which is really mostly nickel and no silver) fretwire. One of the popular combinations in the early 70's was Rotosounds on Rickenbacker 4001s which would be somewhat disasterous. The Rick had very small frets to start with and they normally came from the factory with flatwounds, so it would be hard to find a worse combination. I was the original owner of a 1973 Rick 4001, I used Rotosounds and did find that playing seemed to cut more grooves into the tops of frets than any other bass I've ever played them on, so perhaps their fret wire was a little softer too. I used them on a really bad Fender P-bass around that time too and didn't really see any signficant wear (of course, the action was so poor on that bass I probably wasn't strong enough to fully fret the strings!). These days, I doubt that Rotosound is any better or worse than any other stainless roundwound. I prefer the less bright sound of nickel-plated wraps myself, but I doubt that there would be much difference in wear there. Pure nickel wraps would defintely have less fretware, and these days they've become common again for guitar (and are awesome!), but pretty rare for bass (Fender seems to have a set which I've never tried). The funny thing about Rotosounds are that the classic RS66 are stainless steel but to me behave more like a nickel-plated steel string. When you first put them on, they have an amazingly open, grand-piano tone. That bright edge goes away for me after just a day or two even if you only play a little. The less bright sound that it degrades to stays that way for quite a while. Other stainless strings I've played - Markley Blue Steels and DRs seem to be bright when you put them on and basically never change their tone. I think this is why most basses come with stainless steel strings as original equipment - they will maintain most of their sound for the life of the time on the dealer's wall. The behavior of the Rotos is much more like nickel-plated rounds like GHS Boomers. | ||
| frank_orlando
Junior Username: frank_orlando Post Number: 35 Registered: 8-2002 |
Well, I started my string testing adventure by trying to locate the model numbers for the brands I wanted to try. I play short scale Alembics which require medium scale length strings. I wanted a roundwound, about .045-.105 that was bright but wouldn't eat my frets. I called each manufacturer below and found that: -Elixer doesn't make a medium scale. -Hot Wire doesn't make a medium scale. -Ernie Ball doesn't make a medium scale. -Sit only makes it in .040-.095. -Roto doesn't make their nickle plated RS66 in a medium scale(I won't use their other "fret eaters"). -DR DOES make strings meeting my needs (Hi-Beams and Lo Riders). Wow... that was a cheap and easy. I either like the DR's or stick with my GHS Boomers. I am going to try their Hi-Beams since they are the brighter ones and even though they are not nickle plated they are NOT supposed to eat frets. I'll let you know. Here are some links to string reviews and comparisons that I found along the way: http://www.bgra.net/reviews/string-index.html http://www.bgra.net/features/strings.html http://www.bassinside.com/2003/january/strings.htm Frank | ||
| flaxattack
Junior Username: flaxattack Post Number: 46 Registered: 4-2004 |
(Message edited by flaxattack on May 23, 2004) | ||
| flaxattack
Member Username: flaxattack Post Number: 54 Registered: 4-2004 |
the ken smiths- well...... mixed review... they do sound good.. clean, good sustain, abit brighter than the elixirs my beef? and again- remember that i play out through headphones- but this is a new concern the b string- .130 dia- is just too frkn overpowering. now my front pickup is set way down low on the b side- if i just touched the b string, it is just way too fat and loud- if i lower the bass control- then i lose the fullness on the other stings. if i dare to smack the string?- rutroh- distortion- i may just throw on the elixir b string and leave the rest on. so either i adjust the pickups again or move on- i dontt hink i will use these again for those who lie the dr hi beams? i found this site- so fare the chepeast $25 for the strings and they have light and medium guage http://store.yahoo.com/stringthis/index.html | ||
| effclef
Intermediate Member Username: effclef Post Number: 156 Registered: 1-2004 |
Frank, I wonder if there could be a hardware solution to the short scale string problem. Seems to me I saw an Alembic on Ebay which had been modified so it took normal 34" scale strings. Someone had moved the tailpiece further from the bridge. Now, wouldn't that work out for a custom build? The scale length wouldn't change, but moving the tailpiece means the extra length of string out of the package hangs over the bridge instead of hanging over the nut and winding on the pegs. I wonder what the difference in outer winding length for a maker's 30" vs 34" string is. Bet the tailpiece would only have to be an inch or two away to make it fit. EffClef | ||
| davehouck
Senior Member Username: davehouck Post Number: 557 Registered: 5-2002 |
Moving the tailpiece would change the degree of angle where the string passes over the saddle; which might not be a good thing to do. | ||
| effclef
Intermediate Member Username: effclef Post Number: 161 Registered: 1-2004 |
Dave - OOPS - you are right. I wonder by how much. Simple trigonometry to figure out, but it seems nobody publishes string measurements that include winding length. EffClef | ||
| dfung60
Junior Username: dfung60 Post Number: 40 Registered: 5-2002 |
With regard to moving out the tailpiece... You do want to maintain the string "break" angle over the bridge saddles or you may find that you have intonation problems or buzzing. But if you really want to move the tailpiece out, you can do so by adding the equivalent of a headpiece string tree in the location where the tailpiece was (hey, you've got screw holes there already!). I would think that a simple brass rod or strip on standoffs with enough clearance underneath to pass the strings through would do the trick for cheap. Not many basses where you have the option of moving the tailpiece out another 2" or more! David Fung | ||
| bob
Advanced Member Username: bob Post Number: 219 Registered: 11-2002 |
David's solution is great, especially since you have to do something with those holes anyway. Another possibility might be to recess the tailpiece into the body, or at least shave down the bottom, because you probably have more there than you really need. Break angle is important, but I don't think you should assume that what you have today is necessarily at a critical or optimum point - style, looks, and available space all factor in to this to some extent. If you're intent on this approach, draw some pictures, do a little math, and maybe just try it, before you get into exotic solutions. Might turn out to be easier than you think. -Bob | ||
| thebass
Intermediate Member Username: thebass Post Number: 134 Registered: 3-2003 |
Just my 2 eurocents here: I think the gauge of the strings is more important than the brand. I just got the Rotosound Funkmaster (90-70-50-30) on my MK Std for about a month and think I found my perfect string setting after using various other sets. The light gauge and lower tension allows lightning fast licks and takes out a little bit of punch yet enhances the highs and lows. It sounds perfect for me. | ||
| frank_orlando
Junior Username: frank_orlando Post Number: 37 Registered: 8-2002 |
Well I received my DR Hi-Beams in shortscale (DR-SMR-45)and the sound is very bright and livlier than my GHS Boomers. They sound superb playing alone in my studio. I need to play with my band this week to really test them so the jury is still out. They have a very growly and bright "piano" tone. They feel nice too. I'll spill more after I rehearse. Frank | ||
| flaxattack
Member Username: flaxattack Post Number: 58 Registered: 4-2004 |
got my dr hi beams- medium scale .045-.125 excellent sound , clean ,crisp, nice warm tones, good bottom end. i like em a lot- i also recieved my status hot wires .040,.060,.080.100.125- they will go on after i use up the d.r.s - but for now- the d.r's are a real winner. was able to play through my line6 pod direct output- with no effects beautifully | ||
| flaxattack
Member Username: flaxattack Post Number: 59 Registered: 4-2004 |
bestprice on the d.r's? $25+shipping www.stringthis.com anyone find better? | ||
| rklisme
Junior Username: rklisme Post Number: 22 Registered: 5-2004 |
Just to add my two cents, I use DR's as well. Medium gauge on my Essence, light on my Jazz Bass and light on my Ken Smith basses. I have used High Beams for over ten years and love them! Rory | ||
| kayo
Junior Username: kayo Post Number: 34 Registered: 10-2002 |
I pay $21.50 for DR's at Guitar Center in SF........ If I buy 6 or more packs I get them for $20 a set. | ||
| son_of_magni
Junior Username: son_of_magni Post Number: 40 Registered: 1-2004 |
I'm surprised not to hear anything from Thomastic Jazz Flat users. But this thread has convinced me to replace the Alembics that came on my 6-string fretless with a set of DR High Beam's that I've had laying around for a couple of years. SoM | ||
| bob
Advanced Member Username: bob Post Number: 225 Registered: 11-2002 |
Perhaps those of us using TI Jazz Flats are just being polite :-) Besides, you already know that many of us are fanatics, and we'd just be repeating ourselves. Also, I think (can't tell anymore) that there was something in the original question suggesting a playing style or tonal preference that might have favored something a bit brighter, and cost seems to be popping up a lot in this thread (though the flats last practically forever, they have pure nickel wraps, they aren't going to do much to your frets... well, I didn't mean to get started). It did strike me that the nearly unanimous vote for the DR High Beams was a bit unbalanced, but there have been plenty of other threads where different brands have their supporters. All depends on what you like. There are lots of factors, and I think this is an area where our vocabulary probably isn't very consistent. Experimenting - hopefully with some useful advice from your friends - is the only way to find out. -Bob | ||
| flaxattack
Member Username: flaxattack Post Number: 61 Registered: 4-2004 |
kayo-$21 for dr hi beam 5 strings>? dont think so... i did delete some of my earlier posts- i like a crisp but not overly bright sound and a tight bottom with a nice rumble- so far the d.r med guage seems to give me the best overall sound and the most for lack of a better expression manueverable sound using the tone controls on my orion 5- this past week i got"that" sound i was looking for- but i am gonna throw on the status hotwires this week for a test run. since they offer by far the widest selection of roundwire guages, i am probably going to inquire if they will assemble a custom order of 6 sets of possibly .050,.065,085,100,120- what i find is that my low string neck pickup is so powerful on "phil" that right now it is as low as i can set it on the b string side and it still overpowers the higher strings. so perhaps using lighter guages on the e and b will allow me to raise the pickup a little and fill out the sound  | ||
| flaxattack
Member Username: flaxattack Post Number: 62 Registered: 4-2004 |
fyi- status graphite will let you custom order guages if you order 6 sets and the price for 6 is fairly reasonable- comes to $29 per set which is fair i think to get exactly what you want- string range is .025 through .130 will post review saturday- but these strings came highly recommended www.status-graphite.com | ||
| son_of_magni
Junior Username: son_of_magni Post Number: 45 Registered: 1-2004 |
A couple nights ago I put the DR High Beams on my MK 6-string fretless. After adjusting the crossover and tone controls I was able to get a pretty nice sound but still sounded a bit thin compared to the Alembic strings that came on it. So I ordered a set of the TI Jazz Flats. I'm really looking for a sound with the richness of the Alembic strings but with more meat at the bottom. And since right now I have the horn turned almost all the way down I'm not too worried about the flats killing the high end. We'll see. SoM | ||
| bob
Advanced Member Username: bob Post Number: 235 Registered: 11-2002 |
SoM, Here are a couple of tips on the Jazz Flats (don't think I've seen them posted here before): - Before you put them on, wipe them down thoroughly with alcohol. They come with a fair amount of (machining?) oil, which will leave gray streaks on your fingers, and also smells somewhat unpleasant. Use a light colored cloth so you can see when it's mostly gone, and of course be careful not to kink the skinny ones - i.e., don't rub back and forth. - The fatter ones feel a little funny for the first few days; some people describe it as 'kind of sticky'. This seems to be because of the gaps they leave between the windings (for flexibility), and probably gets better as you deposit some skin cells and oils of your own... - They need some break in time to sound warm, rich, and mellow. I haven't tried to quantify this yet, but I'd guess it's on the order of 10-20 hours before they really settle in. Initially, they sound a bit brighter and don't have as much harmonic complexity, so don't make a snap judgement. Bob | ||
| davehouck
Senior Member Username: davehouck Post Number: 617 Registered: 5-2002 |
Bob; that's interesting that the Flats need to be wiped down. I haven't tried a set yet, but have been thinking of ordering a set for my fretless. Thanks for the tips. | ||
| gbarchus
Member Username: gbarchus Post Number: 70 Registered: 6-2002 |
Did I forget to mention in my earlier post that the flatwound strings I use on ALL my basses are TI Jazz Flats? With a tube amp and 15" JBLs they have a fat, but holding-down-the-bottom, growly sound. I have had bass players in the audience ask me what kind of strings I use. | ||
| adriaan
Advanced Member Username: adriaan Post Number: 251 Registered: 6-2002 |
Could it be the California climate that brings out the "oil"? I put on a fresh set of TI Flats a few weeks back, but didn't play much. Will check tonight - see if the Dutch summer can have the same effect on strings as its California counterpart. TI Jazz Flats are absolutely heaven on fretless. Haven't tried a fresh set on a fretted yet - because (1) they're expensive even in Europe, and Alembics are an expensive hobby anyway, and (2) the shop where I go do have TI guitar strings in stock, but it takes several months for bass strings to be delivered. | ||
| palembic
Senior Member Username: palembic Post Number: 1366 Registered: 9-2002 |
I didn't found TI Jazz flats yet in Belgium, OTOH I'm not THAT looking. Yesterday I ended up in the Leuven store where I usually go and the ONLY flats they had were Ernie Ball 105 - 50. So I decided to invest a bit in "Broomstick" and give it flats. As you know Bonnie has Slinky Ernie Ball 5 string on her and to be honest ....I really like those. So I thoughtabout those flats ...what the heck (I had 'd Addario flats once) and I went for the Ernie Ball flats. I put then on and ...well ...Broomstick is still that good ol' Broomstick put DEFINITELY sounding more "stick" than "broom". Well ....fatter ...presenter ... I dunno. The strings are relatively high tensioned I think so I was able to improve Broomsticks action so ...well ...what a neck ....playing a womans leg!!! Paul the bad one | ||
| son_of_magni
Junior Username: son_of_magni Post Number: 47 Registered: 1-2004 |
Wiping down the strings... this is something I make sure to check when stringing an upright. I'm not sure why though because cello and violin strings are always clean. But since TI makes strings for bowed instruments they may use some of the same processes for their electric bass strings. Anyways, from what I read in the last few posts, I can't wait to put them on. Besides the tone, I'm hoping they will reduce left hand finger noise. Something I haven't heard mentioned is how they respond when playing harmonics??? SoM | ||
| adriaan
Advanced Member Username: adriaan Post Number: 253 Registered: 6-2002 |
SoM, there's little finger noise with flatwounds, especially on a fretless - perhaps if you let them slip, or don't mute when letting the string come loose off the fingerboard. Or are you talking about the 'fret clicks' we've been discussing elsewhere? (Message edited by adriaan on June 03, 2004) | ||
| son_of_magni
Junior Username: son_of_magni Post Number: 48 Registered: 1-2004 |
Actually I was refering to the squeeks that you get if you slide along the string without lifting your finger completely off the string. You often hear it a lot on acoustic guitar. Ha, fret clicks, I don't seem to have that problem ;) I wonder if anyone still makes half rounds? I always used D'Adario half rounds on my fretless Fender P bass... | ||
| dadabass2001
Intermediate Member Username: dadabass2001 Post Number: 162 Registered: 6-2002 |
My first experience with TI Jazz Flats was this last weekend, and there was almost NO fretting finger noise. I was surprised how clean my slides sounded. I didn't see an increase in harmonics, although it seemed on stage that my G string fretted at 10th fret (F) was trying to take off ala Jack and/or Phil from the old "feedback as a musical choice" days. Mike | ||
| son_of_magni
Junior Username: son_of_magni Post Number: 49 Registered: 1-2004 |
received the TI JF's today... put them on... um, wow... | ||
| dadabass2001
Intermediate Member Username: dadabass2001 Post Number: 163 Registered: 6-2002 |
Yeah! That's what I'm talking about! Talk to you again in 6 - 24 hours (whenever you remember that the rest of the world still exists) Mike | ||
| bob
Advanced Member Username: bob Post Number: 236 Registered: 11-2002 |
Welcome to the club, SoM :-) Perhaps in another day or two, once you get past the speechless phase, you can give us a slightly more articulate review - what you like most about them, how they compare to the High Beams and Alembics, etc. Be nice to hear some first impressions, while the comparisons are fresh in your mind. | ||
| flaxattack
Member Username: flaxattack Post Number: 64 Registered: 4-2004 |
where does one buy the t1's? and what are the guages? | ||
| flaxattack
Member Username: flaxattack Post Number: 65 Registered: 4-2004 |
where does one buy the t1's? and what are the guages? | ||
| davehouck
Senior Member Username: davehouck Post Number: 652 Registered: 5-2002 |
Flax; here is the site for info on TI strings: http://www.thomastik.com/guitars/index.html For bass, they come in three styles, Jazz Flats, Jazz Rounds and Power Bass. There is a limited selection of each. For instance, there is only one set of Jazz Flats for a 34" Five String; the gauges are .043, .056, .070, .100, .136. I get my TI's from Steve Barr: http://p219.ezboard.com/fthedudepitfrm18.showMessage?topicID=218.topic You get also get them from JustStrings: http://www.juststrings.com/thomastikinfeldelectricbassguitar.html They are not inexpensive. So far I've only used the Jazz Rounds and only on a four string; but in my experience they maintain a good sound for a long time. For me at this point in time, the durability, feel and tone make the price worth it. | ||
| son_of_magni
Member Username: son_of_magni Post Number: 53 Registered: 1-2004 |
Ok guys, I've been playing the jazz flats now for 10 days or so. It's time to give a more verbose appraisal. I only play fretless, and I only play with my fingers. And I don't pluck the strings, I strike them like upright bass technique. I also play upright and cello. I play jazz, funk, blues, fusion... First off I should say that I didn't think that flatwounds could sound like this. Secondly it should be noted that they don't put out as high a harmonic content as roundwounds. But with the Alembic pickups it doesn't matter. I like a bright sounding bass, and I solo a lot. But with roundwounds I had the horn in my SWR cab turned down to about 1. Now with the TI's I have it up to 5 (halfway up). Lows: Nice solid sound at the bottom, I feel like my 18 finally has something to do. Still has warmth but has twice as much thump as the roundwounds. Very good sustain. Highs: Not as 'in your face' as roundwounds, but still a full rich sound. Very good sustain. Chords sound really sweet, especially with vibrato. It's definately easier to play cleanly without any string noise. But when I dig in I can still get that crackling attack. In general they sound sort of like roundwounds except with a fat solid bottom and without the very top edge of the bite on the highs. Also moving my hand up and down the neck is really effortless (and silent). Another thing that I noticed right away, and surprised me a bit, is there is less drag on my right hand fingers striking the strings, seems to increase control somewhat. I hope this helps anyone who might be considering shelling out the $$$ SoM | ||
| davehouck
Senior Member Username: davehouck Post Number: 653 Registered: 5-2002 |
Thanks SoM; I'm planning on ordering a set of flats for my fretless, just as soon as I get a few other projects out of the way. | ||
| flaxattack
Member Username: flaxattack Post Number: 66 Registered: 4-2004 |
well i tell ya... i looked at the t1s an d i dont like the quage offerinjd/ .136 is way too heavy for my liking and .119 is too light and the price seems high/ i love the dr high beams and i liked the overall sound of the status hotwires, but did not like the light guage of .040-.120. but you can order custom guage sets and at $27 ea for 6sets delivered to U.S. i think i would do this - www.status-graphite.com | ||
| bigredbass
Advanced Member Username: bigredbass Post Number: 244 Registered: 9-2002 |
Strings, strings, strings . . . the eternal quest/question. In a perfect world, I really like the T-I's. However, even here in Nashville, crawling with music stores, I can never find them. Even in this recording environment where tone is everything, I can't find them. It's just as well as they're just too expensive, despite how much I like them. So, I always gravitate back to Boomers. They're reasonably priced, very even from set to set, and you can find 'em at any Mom+Pop music store out in Iowa when you're on the road. I have a soft spot for Rotos, but several weeks transit over the salt water on a container ship makes them real inconsistent for me. Some sets last, some don't; some sets just roar tone-wise, some are dead before I'm even through re-stringing. A real shame, but I don't run into this coming from Battle Creek, MI, where GHS is headquartered. J o e y | ||
| bob
Advanced Member Username: bob Post Number: 255 Registered: 11-2002 |
Joey! Welcome back! Even if you're just dropping in for a brief visit, nice to know you're okay. Yeah, looks like you could get two and a half or three sets of Boomers for the price of one set of Jazz Flats (how long do the Boomers last for you?), and I have yet to see a set of Jazz Flats in a store, 'even here' in the SF Bay area. But Steve Barr is great for price, plus having them in stock and usually getting them in the mail the same day. I've got two spare sets sitting on my dining room table, works for me. SoM - thanks for getting back with your observations. I think you're right on in saying "I didn't think that flatwounds could sound like this". My first set of TI's were the Jazz Rounds, and they were just way better than anything I'd played before, sort of a whole 'nother level. Then a couple of people, who I was starting to trust, told me that you really don't lose much (brightness, clarity, expressiveness, "interest") going to the flats, so I decided to try them. I've still got a spare set of rounds (34" 5 string) laying around, that I should probably offer up here at some point, because they're just going to waste... Anyway, Joey, you were gone just long enough for me to catch up on posts :-) But the really curious thing was that today someone mentioned those bass cabs with a bunch of 5" drivers, that you pointed out to me shortly before you disappeared, so I was thinking about you. -Bob | ||
| palembic
Senior Member Username: palembic Post Number: 1389 Registered: 9-2002 |
BROTHER JOEY, you are back!!!! Man ...call me sentimental but that's a great feeling. I am SO glad you are OK. To the "younger" brothers and sisters between us: brother Joey is the one who gave us the flawless precise method to set-up an Alembic properly (no offence meant to you all Alembicians in Santa Rosa). Joey did you read the post where I ste up the Alembic basses of my Dutch friend Jan-Willem. He was amazed "I am going home with TWO NEW basses" were his own words. I said I was not to thank but you in fact. Anyway ...welcome back!!!! Paul the bad one | ||
| bigredbass
Advanced Member Username: bigredbass Post Number: 245 Registered: 9-2002 |
Well, it's always nice to be missed ! After my previous computer went to cyber heaven, it took me a while to decide what to replace it with . . . I finally wised up and bought a friend's computer, rather than wasting any more time on specs, bus speeds, Gb's. Have had quite some changes in my life since I was here last, both wonderful and terrifying. But I've donned 'My Brave Face' to quote one of my favorite Mc tunes, and it's good to be with you all again, Bob and Paul. The really funny thing about those Phil Jones 5" cabinets: He makes an amp that uses Soviet radio station broadcast tubes (the size of beer bottles!) that makes a zillion watts for about 10 or 20 grand. I need to find that website again, because it's just beyond bizarre. J o e y | ||
| dnburgess
Advanced Member Username: dnburgess Post Number: 290 Registered: 1-2003 |
Joey - is this what you're looking for: http://www.philjonesbass.com/PRODUCTS/AMP/T-500.htm | ||
| dnburgess
Advanced Member Username: dnburgess Post Number: 291 Registered: 1-2003 |
Joey - is this what you're looking for: http://www.philjonesbass.com/PRODUCTS/AMP/T-500.htm | ||
| gbarchus
Member Username: gbarchus Post Number: 76 Registered: 6-2002 |
Just a note on the cost of TI Jazz Flats. I have had a set on one of my basses for over two years of weekly if not daily use. I wipe them down everytime I use them and they don't seem to wear out. As far as brightness goes, for me, they sound like round wounds after a few days of use, but the quality doesn't degrade over time. I have backup sets, but haven't had the need to change them (Many of the old players only changed flatwounds when they broke!). Also, as Mica once told me, using flatwounds allows you to "open up" [my words] the EQ on an Alembic. I was a bit apprehensive about switching to a 100 E string, but the TI Flats are "bassier" than many 105s and the lower tension brings some relief to my tired, old hands. Gale | ||
| gbarchus
Member Username: gbarchus Post Number: 77 Registered: 6-2002 |
Another note about TI Flats: I was a big Yes fan in the 70s ("Fragile" is still one of my favorite albums) and I loved the sound I got from Rotosound round wounds on my Rickenbacker (even though I had to change them every week to keep the brightness!). After hearing the Dead I put some Rotosound flats on that Rick and started using a pick. Last weekend, I was listing to a live recording of my current band and on one tune where I was using a pick with my TI Flats (on a Fender Jazz 62 Reissue) there was a tone reminiscent of that ol' Ricky. | ||
| effclef
Intermediate Member Username: effclef Post Number: 198 Registered: 1-2004 |
OH MY GOSH...that Jones bass amp uses 813s! That's an RF (shortwave) transmitter tube from the pre-WWII era I think. Yes: 1938. http://faculty.frostburg.edu/phys/latta/ee/wing813amp/813.html Amazing. Ten thousand dollars? I don't know about that. If you were handy with a soldering iron and could put together an amp, you could probably do it for $1000 even if you bought a new power transformer from Peter Dahl and got new tubes and sockets and didn't take apart old aircraft transmitters. As for strings, after all this talk about TI Jazz Flats I just ordered a set and will definitely like to give them a workout. The strings I have tried and liked the best have been DR Sunbeams, the nickel coated roundwound, 45-65-85-105. http://www.drstrings.com/sunbeams.htm I did try their Marcus Miller Fatbeams (stainless round core if I remember right) and Lo Riders (nickel hex core...also available in stainless) which I didn't like as much as the Sunbeams. I think Sunbeams would be my "desert island" string set. EffClef | ||
| adriaan
Advanced Member Username: adriaan Post Number: 259 Registered: 6-2002 |
Okay, I'm still a big TI Jazz Flats fan BUT the new set I put on my fretless has a dull A string. As always, the rest of the set is a bit trebly, but that will wear off before long. I'm pretty sure the set will become more balanced after a while, but a dull A string at that price? I just put a set of D'Addario Slowounds 45-100 on my 32" Spoiler, which had a lighter set (Vinci? 40-90?) on it from the place where I bought it. The heavier gauge certainly helps A WHOLE BIG LOT in terms of lows and sustain, so anyone looking for more lows and sustain? check your string gauges. But they're kind of stiff - though after a few days they are starting to grow a bit gentler on the fingers. For sound and feel, in the past, I liked DR LoRiders a lot. Around here you can only get those or HiBeams, which I think have a bit of distortion built into them. I'd be interested in those Sunbeams, if only I could find them. (Message edited by adriaan on June 24, 2004) | ||
| bob
Advanced Member Username: bob Post Number: 258 Registered: 11-2002 |
adriaan, There was an issue earlier this year with some A strings in the Jazz Flats. I don't recall the details, and I'm sort of pressed for time right now, but you could read more about it at Steve Barr's site (there's a link earlier in this thread). He and Kevin (from Connelly, the TI distributor here in the US) were pretty intense on tracking down this issue, so you may wish to get in touch with them. According to Steve, they found no problems with the JF-365 sets, but there were three or four reported cases with the JF-344's (no info on the 345's). These guys care, and will take care of you - in fact, I've seen Steve offer a replacement string to someone who didn't buy the set from him - not that you should take advantage of it. But anyway, if you have a bad one, let someone know. | ||
| adriaan
Advanced Member Username: adriaan Post Number: 260 Registered: 6-2002 |
Bob, Thanks for letting me know about the issue with the A strings, I'll check Steve's site. My own retailer orders directly from the factory but still the strings take months to arrive, so not sure if they can do anything. * Didn't find anything relevant on Steve's site - okay I did not check every single thread, but it must be under some nondescript header (a what?). (Message edited by Adriaan on June 25, 2004) | ||
| 811952
Advanced Member Username: 811952 Post Number: 216 Registered: 10-2003 |
I just bit the bullet and ordered 2 sets of Thomastik jazz flats from juststrings.com. We shall see how this goes.... John | ||
| bsee
Intermediate Member Username: bsee Post Number: 124 Registered: 3-2004 |
Isn't a .136 "B" string pretty enormous, though? I think the .125 on my DR set is pretty fat, so I can't imagine a .136 fitting in there. Do people have to make adjustments to the nut and bridge saddle when they switch to these strings? | ||
| frank_orlando
Junior Username: frank_orlando Post Number: 48 Registered: 8-2002 |
I'll add some info here for those who like that piano brightness coming out of the speakers. Back on May 1 I wrote that all I used were GHS Boomers 045-105 on my short scale 4-strings. On May 16 I put a set of DR Hi-Beams on my Essence and I love the sound. Very bright with nice overall tone and not too hard on the fingers. Today my GHS Super Steels came from Just Strings and I put them on my Custom (Fender-lembic) Wow! What a bright growly tone with nice bottom and sustain. And the volume is unreal. I actually had to lower my volume setting on the amp a whole number. 044-106 roundwound stainless steel. I have not played with the band with them yet but for about $17 I am impressed with the overall sound. I need to see if I have any flesh left on my fingers after a few 45 minute sets. I also want to see how long the excellent sound lasts. More to come. | ||
| bob
Advanced Member Username: bob Post Number: 259 Registered: 11-2002 |
Bob (TOB, The Other Bob???) - Yes, .136 is enormous, especially considering it's flat wound - and it's just wonderful. I happen to be a sailor, and this thing is bigger than some 1/8 inch lines we have on the boat, which I often get a kick out of (awkward grammer, that). Anyway, yes - you will probably need to widen your nut and bridge saddle to accommodate. If you're a careful and patient chap, you can do this yourself. Of course, the question arises, what happens if you don't like them and go back to a smaller gauge? Well, I suppose that could happen... my sense is that by the time you're up over .120 or so, you can live with being oversized by .008 - .010. It's not optimal, and I had a new nut cut when a few of the slots were over by about .008, but then I tend to finicky about this stuff, and I'm not convinced it really made any difference. You should look at your nut and bridge saddle slots. Some may be more V shaped, others more U shaped (V is more accomodating, U sounds better if fit closely). It's all so complicated... -Bob | ||
| smokin_dave
Intermediate Member Username: smokin_dave Post Number: 127 Registered: 10-2002 |
Black Diamond recently sent me a few sets of they're new black coated strings and I really like them so far.I've been using a set I put on about three weeks ago and they still sound as good as the day I put them on.I play my Rogue every day for at least an hour or so and these strings have withstood the test of time.I usually swap out sets a couple of times a week depending on what and how many shows I'm doing but these are hanging right in there.I use a really heavy gauge(50-130)so I can get a big sound without having to play my fingers off.Give 'em a try.Before Black Diamonds,I used DR low riders since at that time I felt they were the best string for big tone and longevity. | ||
| jacko
New Username: jacko Post Number: 3 Registered: 10-2002 |
I've just fitted a set of DR marcus miller fat beams (45 - 125) to my epic 5 and i can honestly say they're the best sounding strings I've had. Previously I've used fender, elites, rotosound and daddario but i've always found the sound to be lacking that 'certain something'. Just waiting to see how long they last as they're pretty expensive here (scotland) | ||
| gare
New Username: gare Post Number: 8 Registered: 11-2003 |
Has anyone had experience with D'Adarrio half rounds ? Interesting concept,but I haven't gotten around to trying them. The previous discussion about Rotosonds,I've used them on my Rickenbacker since '71 and dont show excessive wear. Maybe I just have a light touch. It's time start experimenting, the TI's and DR's see m worth exploring. G | ||
| son_of_magni
Member Username: son_of_magni Post Number: 64 Registered: 1-2004 |
I always used half rounds on my fretless Fender P. Loved the sound and they didn't dig up the neck. But I really haven't played that bass in the last 15 years (since I bought a Pedulla, am I allowed to say that here?). Now the Pedulla has taken a back seat to my Alembic. At this point I still do wonder what the half rounds would sound like on the Alembic but since I just put TI's on it'll be a while before I try it. My recollection is that they do have most of the round wound sound found when you pound round wounds... ok getting a little carried away here. Point is they sound like round wounds but they are shaved flat so they are easier on the neck and the fingers. The wrap wire is shaved a bit less than half way through, so your fingers will detect a little crack between the windings which feels funny at first, but either you get used to it or they smooth off as they break in. Another way to think about it is they sound more like round wounds than the TI flats do. The TI flats sound more like really amazing flat wounds. | ||
| gare
New Username: gare Post Number: 9 Registered: 11-2003 |
SoM..thx for the info, gonna have to give them a try too. You know guys, this really is a great forum, an amazing wealth of information. (and a real time/money saver) One thing that would be very useful in these discussions is a brief description of the type of sound you're going after. As an example,I've always gone after a Squire/Lake type of sound, someone else may be looking for the Jaco sound, etc. This info would make it easier for others to narrow down their choices. Gare | ||
| flaxattack
Member Username: flaxattack Post Number: 86 Registered: 4-2004 |
just got my status graphit roundwound custom guage order... 1 set- $40.00 del 6 sets $29 each del .050,070,085,105,125 very fair price... wil review saturday | ||
| son_of_magni
Member Username: son_of_magni Post Number: 65 Registered: 1-2004 |
Gare, that's a fair question. I hope you accept this as a fair answer. There was a time when I would try to sould like another bass player, like Jaco for instance. But I've long since given up trying to sound like anyone but myself. In fact my wife recently said to me "You have really developed your own style, you don't sound like any other bass player." I'm very happy to have come to a place where I'm completely comfortable just playing like me. Given that, I think I would like any sound that lets me play the way I want and express my musical intent. So, now you have me thinking, what are those characteristics? Without writing a thesis here I think start with three biggies... Tone: The tone should be consistant over the range of the instrument. If the B string sounds weak or dead it'll never be heard, same goes for the C string. They all need to have a full rich sound. Response: I need to be able to play in a wide dynamic range and also be able to vary the amount of attack. The strings must be able to give a soft mellow sound or a crackling crisp percussive sound on demand. Feel: Of course the way your strings feel to your fingers, and the consistanct of that feel, will effect the way you play, and your ability to play well. Any of this make sense? | ||
| flaxattack
Member Username: flaxattack Post Number: 88 Registered: 4-2004 |
i lean twds a lesh kind of sound but i agree with gare- its my own at this point | ||
| goatfoot
Member Username: goatfoot Post Number: 52 Registered: 12-2003 |
Gare said: "You know guys, this really is a great forum, an amazing wealth of information. (and a real time/money saver)" Heh, heh. That's funny! I can just hear myself say to my wife, "Yeah, honey, I know looking at all of those beautiful basses on the Alemic Club site gave me GAS to order that new Custom ... but look at all of the money I saved by not shopping around for strings!" Ha! Kevin | ||
| the_mule
Intermediate Member Username: the_mule Post Number: 153 Registered: 1-2004 |
My short scale Series I really growls and sings with medium scale (!) 100-40 DR HiBeams. The tone is much more focused (especially with the low E) than with the light(er) short scale strings she carried when I purchased her. Wilfred | ||
| flaxattack
Member Username: flaxattack Post Number: 92 Registered: 4-2004 |
i tried the status hotwires friday. had to do a fair amount of pick up adjusting to get my sound right. also i noticed that my right hand fingers were dirty from residue on the strings. the sound was pretty good after messin with the bass settings. i want to take another spin on these before making a final decision. i did like the 050,070 g and d strings but at this pints its still the dr hi beams .045, elixirs and status in that order | ||
| rogertvr
Advanced Member Username: rogertvr Post Number: 234 Registered: 1-2003 |
When I first put Hotwires on the Dragon's Wing, it took me literally hours of pick-up adjusting to get the sound right. But once it is right - the sound is awesome. I find the bottom-end to be warm and full, the mid-range is very punchy and the top is crystal clear. An interesting comment that, about the residue. Of the sets I've used, I've not had any residue on any of them. Cheers, Rog | ||
| bsee
Intermediate Member Username: bsee Post Number: 129 Registered: 3-2004 |
I am about to try a set of La Bella Slappers on my Persuader 5. I had a problem in that the set came with taper wound B/E strings, contrary to what I was told when making the purchase. I contacted La Bella, and they asked me to send in the strings, so it sounds like they're going to replace them. I got one string on and tuned up to see how they sounded before I realized the bass strings were tapered, and they had a bit more tonal range than the strings that came on my bass. I look forward to getting this set loaded on. Anybody have experience with these strings? | ||
| gare
Junior Username: gare Post Number: 12 Registered: 11-2003 |
SoM...Yes,a very fair answer and it makes perfect sense,to me anyway. I think we all have our bass heros that we probably started to base our sound or technique on. Especially if you have mutliple heros. A little piece of this,a little of that,and it becomes the basis of your playing or sound. Not to say that originality doesnt play a major role,but we all have to start somewhere. But unless your using the exact setup, instrument,strings,amp,speakers,etc.,it sort of becomes your sound. So many variables. Playing a Stanley Clark piece on P-Bass isnt exact,but thats the beauty of making it more your own style and sound. Having laid off playing for a few years I'm in the process of redeveloping all these things. And this forum has been a great help in formulating new thoughts. Kev..its like that commercial,but I saved,thought that meant something to you ! Gare | ||
| somatic
New Username: somatic Post Number: 7 Registered: 11-2003 |
The really funny thing about those Phil Jones 5" cabinets: He makes an amp that uses Soviet radio station broadcast tubes (the size of beer bottles!) that makes a zillion watts for about 10 or 20 grand. I need to find that website again, because it's just beyond bizarre. Joey - is this what you're looking for: http://www.philjonesbass.com/PRODUCTS/AMP/T-500.htm Just beyond bizarre.....? Not sure whether I should be complimented or offended, as I've been using 813's in my home stereo amps for years, getting about 50W class A (triode) from a pair. They last forever, look really cool and the US made ones are a lot better sounding than the Russians. I'd never seen that amp before, so thanks for the link. I don't feel quite so far out on the fringe any more. When I get some time I might have to build a bass head using some, at least for home. Due to the very long filaments and the ease with which they can be broken, I don't think I'd take a head like this on the road. | ||
| son_of_magni
Member Username: son_of_magni Post Number: 71 Registered: 1-2004 |
Brett, I'd love to see a picture of your amps. My mono block output tubes are EL509's, and I thought they were big. They run 700 volts on the plates. An 813 based stereo must really look cool. My SC150's (with ST70 for the rear speakers):   (Message edited by son_of_magni on July 09, 2004) | ||
| somatic
New Username: somatic Post Number: 8 Registered: 11-2003 |
I'd love to see a picture of your amps. I'll see what I can dig up. Currently I'm living in another state for a work contract and had to put my vinyl/tubes/horns system into storage. The amps are huge (6 chassis), mainly because the powersupply uses oversized transformers, tube rectification (6CJ3), DC heaters, choke input and polypropylene caps. The top chassis for each channel is a simple Jarrah wood box with a brass plate top and 2 813's and 2 6H30's on it. The 813's throw enough light that you can easily read by them, and enough heat that I prefer not to use them in summer.  And here's a pic I found of a pair of 813's alight from Robert Wills page to give you some idea of what they look like at night. http://homepages.ihug.co.nz/~rwillis/alex/813s_aglow.jpg My mono block output tubes are EL509's I like the EL509's; great tubes, and one of the types I'd like to experiment with further when I move back home. And any tube with a topcap is cool in my books. My SC150's (with ST70 for the rear speakers) Nice amps! I'm a big fan of the late David Hafler's ST70. (Message edited by Somatic on July 09, 2004) |
