Author |
Message |
lyla53
Junior Username: lyla53
Post Number: 15 Registered: 12-2012
| Posted on Tuesday, July 09, 2013 - 6:38 am: | |
Here's my baby and daily player - I need some advice on securing the upper strap lock (Schaller) male fitting attaching screw. Recently I've noticed the screw starting to loosen and back out after a week or so of play. The screw tightens fine and is not stripped. LocTite perhaps? If so which formula? Thanks p.s. LOOOOOOOVE this bass!!! |
lyla53
Junior Username: lyla53
Post Number: 16 Registered: 12-2012
| Posted on Tuesday, July 09, 2013 - 6:43 am: | |
I guess a little reading helps before one posts...Just found this from a recent thread... "Toby's procedure is correct if the hole is enlarged or stripped. If the screw just periodically loosens or works its way out, you can add a drop or two of red Loctite 242 to the treads before inserting and tightening the screw and it will hold indefinitely." |
811952
Senior Member Username: 811952
Post Number: 2327 Registered: 10-2003
| Posted on Tuesday, July 09, 2013 - 6:52 am: | |
That's a gorgeous bass. John |
pierreyves
Senior Member Username: pierreyves
Post Number: 1165 Registered: 11-2006
| Posted on Tuesday, July 09, 2013 - 6:55 am: | |
with loctite, add a little piece of wood (alumette) in the hole and rescrew after |
tbrannon
Senior Member Username: tbrannon
Post Number: 1574 Registered: 11-2004
| Posted on Tuesday, July 09, 2013 - 8:05 am: | |
Man, that top is out of this world beautiful. Doesn't seem possible that it could even be wood. Looks like marble or something! Enjoy that bass- seems like this bass (or one with a similar 'mutant maple' top has changed hands numerous times in the past couple years. Hopefully it's found a permanent home. Same bass? http://alembic.com/club/messages/411/78333.html?1338764141 (Message edited by tbrannon on July 09, 2013) (Message edited by tbrannon on July 09, 2013) |
wylie_j
Junior Username: wylie_j
Post Number: 16 Registered: 8-2005
| Posted on Tuesday, July 09, 2013 - 6:11 pm: | |
What A Beauty......Hope u get many year's of entertainment frm...her/him! U should give a name......they seem to love u back more with a name.....ha ha ha! |
wylie_j
Junior Username: wylie_j
Post Number: 17 Registered: 8-2005
| Posted on Tuesday, July 09, 2013 - 6:11 pm: | |
What A Beauty......Hope u get many year's of entertainment frm...her/him! U should give a name......they seem to love u back more with a name.....ha ha ha! |
lyla53
Junior Username: lyla53
Post Number: 17 Registered: 12-2012
| Posted on Thursday, July 11, 2013 - 9:34 pm: | |
Thanks guys...It's just a stunning instrument and is in such perfect condition given the many owners it's had...Mica called the top "Mutant Maple" custom built in 93. I actual stumbled across the original owner (who is still an active member of this forum) just a few days after I picked her up....I could still hear love in his words when he found out I had it... I love playing it daily for hours...Stereo rig with bass pu going thru an SVTll (non pro) treble thru a V4BH - SVT and Ashdown ABM cabs. Pyramid Flats I'm really baffled as to why it's moved around so much. Plays fantastic. It's very conformable for extended play and sounds amazing. I've owned her roughly 4 or 5 months. You are right she needs a name - I'll get on that immediately! |
gtrguy
Senior Member Username: gtrguy
Post Number: 622 Registered: 9-2004
| Posted on Friday, July 12, 2013 - 10:08 am: | |
Here's what the pros do! They stuff a toothpick in the hole (pointy end facing up) and break it off and then put the screw back in. |
mario_farufyno
Senior Member Username: mario_farufyno
Post Number: 990 Registered: 9-2008
| Posted on Saturday, July 13, 2013 - 6:09 pm: | |
velvet maple! |
mica
Moderator Username: mica
Post Number: 8001 Registered: 6-2000
| Posted on Monday, July 15, 2013 - 6:05 pm: | |
The cells of the wood compress under the pressure of the straplock (or any other anchored item like the tuning key nuts, the tailpiece screws). You notice it on the straplocks first though - as the wood cells compress, the wood screw wiggles. If you catch it early enough, you can just tighten it up again. Maybe another 2-3 times and most of the compression that's going to happen is done. Problem is, is that the whole notion of the straplock makes folks sorta forget about the anchor point. Once it's super wiggly, you have to so as David suggests and fill the hole then remount. My suggestion is that if you have straplocks, to check the wood screw connection at least once a month. If it has any give, tighten that puppy up. BTW, I rather like the name Velvet Maple - very fitting! |
lyla53
Junior Username: lyla53
Post Number: 18 Registered: 12-2012
| Posted on Sunday, July 21, 2013 - 9:29 am: | |
Well, I'm getting pretty religious about checking the screw. It currently gets loose after about 20 hours of play (6 to 10 days) BTW I use a Moody 4" strap. So I'm understanding, the toothpick fix is preferable to Loctite?? Velvet Maple.....I LIKE it! |
sonicus
Senior Member Username: sonicus
Post Number: 2987 Registered: 5-2009
| Posted on Sunday, July 21, 2013 - 10:23 am: | |
I would use a small hardwood dowel and "wood glue". Wood glue such as "Titebond" That's how a wood worker would do it . |
sonicus
Senior Member Username: sonicus
Post Number: 2988 Registered: 5-2009
| Posted on Sunday, July 21, 2013 - 12:04 pm: | |
I use the Loctite on the actual nut threads that holds the strap clip to the strap. I use BLUE loctite where it is desirable to remove the mechanical assembly and RED Loctite where a more permanent application is in order. Be aware of the difference. |
dfung60
Senior Member Username: dfung60
Post Number: 587 Registered: 5-2002
| Posted on Sunday, July 21, 2013 - 8:38 pm: | |
I think you'll have the best luck when you glue a piece of toothpick in with Titebond or Elmer's white glue. The screw that's holding the straplock in is (usually) a wood screw, so putting the toothpick in gives it addition wood to bite into. Loctite is intended to hold metal-to-metal threads together (e.g., nut and bolt or bolt into insert). The wood is porous relative to the kind of metal surface it was designed for, so it won't give you as much grip. When the strap button works a little loose in the hole, the screw moves around in it's hole which enlarges it. That allows it to move around more and enlarge more, until you can't effectively tighten it. On some instruments (old Warwicks come to mind), especially with Schaller straplocks, there's a threaded insert set into the body, and the screw is a machine bolt, so you get a really solid connection (and you can lock it down with blue Loctite). This is a nice touch that you might consider. The hole in the Schaller strap button is small (much smaller than on the Duncan-style Straplok), so the screw is narrower and more likely to loosen up. I like the Schaller system better myself, even though you're screwed if you forget your strap. David Fung |
cozmik_cowboy
Senior Member Username: cozmik_cowboy
Post Number: 1529 Registered: 10-2006
| Posted on Monday, July 22, 2013 - 8:01 pm: | |
I put Schallers on all my electrics, and in my roadie days on every one I cared for; except for my MII garage-sale rescue Tele, the Schaller screw has been bigger every time. Also, I put them on my son's Strat, but he's a bit of a beanbag about keeping track of stuff & lost the strap; used the Schaller buttons like regular ones for years. Peter |
smuprof
Advanced Member Username: smuprof
Post Number: 208 Registered: 12-2003
| Posted on Friday, July 26, 2013 - 4:58 pm: | |
Ralph - Had the same issue, dug around in a tray of electronics screws and hardware and found a small split lock washer that fit the screw shaft but was no bigger than the head of the screw so it fit down inside the Schaller strap lock. Works perfectly, no modifications to the original screw hole from Alembic, and completely reversible. |
lyla53
Junior Username: lyla53
Post Number: 19 Registered: 12-2012
| Posted on Wednesday, July 31, 2013 - 7:00 am: | |
Thanks all....great help! |