Author |
Message |
rv_bass
Junior Username: rv_bass
Post Number: 20 Registered: 8-2014
| Posted on Friday, November 27, 2015 - 6:27 am: | |
Hi, I have an Orion bass and was thinking of removing the tailpiece and bridge for polishing. I was wondering if there are brass threads that the screws screw into? if not, would removing the screws weaken the connection with the wood when the tailpiece and bridge are reconnected. Thanks, Rob |
hammer
Senior Member Username: hammer
Post Number: 800 Registered: 9-2009
| Posted on Friday, November 27, 2015 - 10:30 am: | |
Taking the bridge and tailpiece off for polishing is not a problem and protects the surrounding wood. Please refer to earlier posts regarding the use of Flitz (recommended by Alembic), NeverDull, and other products to make your Alembic shine like new. |
bigredbass
Senior Member Username: bigredbass
Post Number: 2501 Registered: 9-2002
| Posted on Friday, November 27, 2015 - 10:39 am: | |
Rob, the tailpieces are wood-screwed directly into the top, so you may have to do the dowel+glue workaround when you go to re-mount it. Be sure and use the right size Phiilips to turn those screws, as obviously, the screwdriver slipping and skittering across the top of the axe . . . . would ruin your day. Unlike any other hardware on the axe, the tailpieces are clear-coated, so you'll have to get thru that finish to buff it out, and decide whether or not to re-shoot with clear before you put it back. The bridges are riding on threaded studs, so you simply keep raising them in their mounts till they come free. Then you can dis-assemble them for maintenance as you wish. Along with every other brass bit except the tailpiece, they're not clear-coated and you can use your polish on the parts straight away. I always advise the first time you do this to take some digital pics to remember which way it's facing, and also get an idea of where they saddles are sitting along their adjusting rods. If you dis-assemble them completely, you'll unscrew the saddles off them, and to speed up re-assembly, you'll know about where to return them. It's good to do this at new-strings time, and if they're roughly in place to begin with, it will save you time with the strobe tuner. The first time I did this, I took the bridge completely apart, cleaned and lubed every thing, and put it back on the bass . . . . with the saddles facing backwards. So off it came, took it all apart again, re-seated the saddles properly and started over. So some digital pics for their relative positions as well as the height the bridge was sitting at before you started will definitely save some time ! Joey |
bigredbass
Senior Member Username: bigredbass
Post Number: 2502 Registered: 9-2002
| Posted on Friday, November 27, 2015 - 10:41 am: | |
PS: UrHmblEd made an omission: IF you have brass control cavity covers, they are clear coated as well. Joey |
rv_bass
Junior Username: rv_bass
Post Number: 21 Registered: 8-2014
| Posted on Friday, November 27, 2015 - 11:35 am: | |
Thanks very much for the feedback. I have Flitz, so I'll read up on proper use as suggested. Joey, thanks for the details on disassembling and reassembling. I'll start with the bridge and reference photos, I'll think about the tailpiece a little bit to decide if I want to remove or polish in place, and the clear coat factor. Thanks! Rob |
gtrguy
Senior Member Username: gtrguy
Post Number: 970 Registered: 9-2004
| Posted on Tuesday, December 15, 2015 - 7:30 pm: | |
Some recommend replacing the brass screws on the tailpiece with SS ones too. I have done it just in case on older instruments. Brass can weaken with age sometimes. |
sonicus
Senior Member Username: sonicus
Post Number: 4647 Registered: 5-2009
| Posted on Tuesday, December 15, 2015 - 8:18 pm: | |
The Stainless screws are a good idea for the tail piece. I like to use a splinter of wood like a tooth pic and a drop of wood glue in the old screw hole as a refastening procedure when replacing screws that are called upon do do a high tension hold down task as these will be doing . Be sure to use the correct screw specs in size and description as the ones that they will be replacing. Wolf |
rv_bass
Junior Username: rv_bass
Post Number: 36 Registered: 8-2014
| Posted on Wednesday, December 16, 2015 - 5:14 am: | |
gtrguy, thanks for the advice on the SS screws, I'll be sure to use them. Wolf, thanks for the advice on the toothpic and glue method. I recently observed a local luthier applying this method on another instrument, glad to know it works well! I will be sure to include this method. Thanks, Rob |
stephenr
Intermediate Member Username: stephenr
Post Number: 152 Registered: 9-2014
| Posted on Wednesday, December 16, 2015 - 9:27 am: | |
I removed the tailpiece on my 78 Series bass to clean it recently and when I went to reattach it one of the screw holes was stripped. I also did not realize until I removed the tailpiece that one of the brass screws had snapped in half at some point. I wouldn't have found this out if I hadn't removed the tailpiece. Luckily the broken piece protruded slightly into the battery compartment so I was easily able to remove it. Had to glue in dowels before reassembling. Mary at Alembic sent me new stainless steel screws and told me they no longer use brass. Wolf Nice tip on adding the sliver of tooth pic. The only brass part I clear coated after cleaning was the tailpiece so I wouldn't run into the issue of the screw holes stripping during repeated cleanings. The tooth pic would help prevent that being an issue. |
sonicus
Senior Member Username: sonicus
Post Number: 4650 Registered: 5-2009
| Posted on Wednesday, December 16, 2015 - 9:42 am: | |
Hi Rob & Stephen , I am very glad that my little tip was of use to both of you . Thanks for the mentioning of that . Wolf |