Model?wiring diagram? Log Out | Topics | Search
Moderators | Register | Edit Profile

Alembic Club » Owning an Alembic » Troubleshooting » Archive through December 18, 2006 » Model?wiring diagram? « Previous Next »

Author Message
staan
New
Username: staan

Post Number: 1
Registered: 9-2006
Posted on Thursday, September 21, 2006 - 1:17 am:   Edit Post

Hi folks,

I'm about to buy a used alembic bass that has also a 4-pin swichcraft connector for the piezo pickup but there is no cable and i don't know how to test it.
I don't know what model this is or how old it is.
It's a 4string and the serial is: 86 4202 USA
staan
New
Username: staan

Post Number: 2
Registered: 9-2006
Posted on Thursday, September 21, 2006 - 1:40 am:   Edit Post

Hi again,

I just found out that it's a 1986 series 1.
So... is there a special power supply required?
Can i get the wiring diagram so i can let someone to build one?

Thank's
keavin
Senior Member
Username: keavin

Post Number: 936
Registered: 12-2002
Posted on Thursday, September 21, 2006 - 4:51 am:   Edit Post

Are you sure it's a 5Pin & not 4Pin Connection,,,,,,,what you might wanna do is install two batteries into the cavity (the bass will work w/ 2 9Volt batteries) until you can get your hands on a power supply cable.........so test it first w/batteries,& maybe later you can order a cable from alembic or one of us club members.
lbpesq
Senior Member
Username: lbpesq

Post Number: 1638
Registered: 7-2004
Posted on Thursday, September 21, 2006 - 7:24 am:   Edit Post

Stan:

Welcome to the club and congrats on your Alembic. Piezos? Are you sure? Alembics aren't generally built with piezos. The only exception I've seen is custom guitars where a Roland GK pickup is installed to run a synth. Keavin's correct - the Alembic power cable is a 5 pin. If you test it with batteries, don't be surprised if only the neck pickup works. Older Alembics were wired this way. On newer ones both pickups work with batteries and the older ones can easily be modded to do so also.

Bill, the guitar one
effclef
Senior Member
Username: effclef

Post Number: 433
Registered: 1-2004
Posted on Thursday, September 21, 2006 - 7:26 am:   Edit Post

Staan, can you post a photo of it?

I wonder if he thinks the humcanceller on the Series 1 is a piezo?

EffClef
811952
Senior Member
Username: 811952

Post Number: 821
Registered: 10-2003
Posted on Thursday, September 21, 2006 - 7:39 am:   Edit Post

Stan,

Actually, if you test it with batteries both pickups will work if you plug stereo headphones into the 1/4" jack, no mod required. Neck pickup will be in one ear and bridge pickup in the other. Also, if the bass has LEDs on the neck, they probably won't work without the power supply. The power supply feeds +9vdc and -9vdc to the bass, and audio returns unbalanced stereo through the cable. I'm sure there is a schematic on the site somewhere that has the pin-out information, and either Keavin or Dave will probably post a link to it. The Alembic power supply has the audio breakouts (Neck, Bridge, Both) and is an elegant unit.

John
staan
New
Username: staan

Post Number: 3
Registered: 9-2006
Posted on Thursday, September 21, 2006 - 1:09 pm:   Edit Post

Thank's all of you...
First of all , i installed two 9Volt batteries and then pluged it with a mono 1/4"jack in a Amek preamp i use in studio.Only the neck pickup worked.
Then i pluged a stereo 1/4" jack and both pickups are working.Every pickup has its own volume,-frequency- and (frequency)gain- Knob.So 3Knobs for every pickup, a Master volume and a switch with 4positions (bridge,both,neck...and?????..mute)
Regarding piezo i thought it might be one because of the four adjustment knobs on the back of the body (those ones you adjust with the screwdriver)
I wonder what signal i can get from that connector?
811952
Senior Member
Username: 811952

Post Number: 824
Registered: 10-2003
Posted on Thursday, September 21, 2006 - 1:24 pm:   Edit Post

The four adjustment screws on the back are:

neck pu gain
humcancel
humcancel
bridge pu gain

The output is adjustable up to about 1 volt (line level), and will drive a set of headphones quite nicely. Even though there are not very many controls, you will discover that you have one of the most tone-flexible instruments on the planet. Enjoy!

John
keith_h
Senior Member
Username: keith_h

Post Number: 561
Registered: 2-2005
Posted on Thursday, September 21, 2006 - 1:58 pm:   Edit Post

You say that you have 3 knobs for each pickup? This would make the bass a Series 2. The controls would be volume, low pass filter frequency and CVQ .

" I wonder what signal i can get from that connector?"
The 5-pin connector will give you the same output as the stereo 1/4 " jack and it will replace the batteries. If the bass has LED's in the neck it will also light those. To use the 5-pin connector you will need a chord and the power supply (a blue colored box).

Keith
staan
New
Username: staan

Post Number: 4
Registered: 9-2006
Posted on Thursday, September 21, 2006 - 2:28 pm:   Edit Post

Here some pictures.......
86 series 1
4
5
2
...what are those knobs?
...and what about the 4-th position of the switch
in the picture below...?
000

Thank's, Stan
staan
New
Username: staan

Post Number: 5
Registered: 9-2006
Posted on Thursday, September 21, 2006 - 2:33 pm:   Edit Post

...Thank's John....

so now i know what those screws are for...

And what about the model....
Is it a series 1?
I thought so because there is no letter in the serial... It's "86 4202"

Stan
olieoliver
Senior Member
Username: olieoliver

Post Number: 731
Registered: 2-2006
Posted on Thursday, September 21, 2006 - 2:41 pm:   Edit Post

Look like a Series II to me.
lbpesq
Senior Member
Username: lbpesq

Post Number: 1640
Registered: 7-2004
Posted on Thursday, September 21, 2006 - 3:02 pm:   Edit Post

Stan:

It's either a Series II or a Seies I with Series II elecronics. I'm sure someone around here will shortly be by to give the definitive ruling. The trio of knobs for each pickup is a gain (volume); a low pass filter (filters out frequencies above where it is set); and a CVQ - continuously variable Q swith. This adds a boost at the frequeny cut-off point as set by the Low Pass Filter. On a Series II I believe it is variable from 0 to 15db boost. As for the 4th position on the pickup selector switch, in the words of Ed McMahon "You are correct sir"! The 4th position is, inded, a mute. Don't confuse this with an on-off switch. Even in mute the batteries will drain if you are running without the power supply. The batteries are turned on and off by plugging and unplugging the 1/4 jack. Don't expect a lot of time with the batteries. If you search around this site you'll probably find claims of 10-40 hours battery life. This is a top-o-the-line instrument. Enjoy it.

Bill, tgo
staan
New
Username: staan

Post Number: 6
Registered: 9-2006
Posted on Thursday, September 21, 2006 - 3:16 pm:   Edit Post

Thank's Bill,and also to Keith and Oliver.

About the serial,(86 4202) i guess it still means it's a 1986 model,even if it's a series 2....or not?
Otherwise i think finding out what year it was made could be difficult....

Stan
dadabass2001
Senior Member
Username: dadabass2001

Post Number: 679
Registered: 6-2002
Posted on Thursday, September 21, 2006 - 5:06 pm:   Edit Post

Hello Staan,
You are right about the ID number as well, the instrument was made in 86, based on your read of the serial number. It appears your top wood is Zebrawood.
Also check this part of the FAQ section on this board for info on adjusting the trim pots on the back of the bass if they need it.
Mike
811952
Senior Member
Username: 811952

Post Number: 825
Registered: 10-2003
Posted on Thursday, September 21, 2006 - 6:54 pm:   Edit Post

Old Series II. Sweet. Correct number of neck laminates for that period, and the *standard* omega. Nice bass!

The 4-position rotary switch is off, bridge, both, neck. The pointy knobs between the volume and filter knobs are the continuously variable Q for the filter (tuneable high pass, with the Q knobs giving a mild-to-pronounced boost at whatever frequency the filter is set). Also, it looks like the bridge pickup is a replacement from the late 80s or early 90s.

John

Oops. The filters are low-pass, not high-pass!!

(Message edited by 811952 on September 22, 2006)
staan
New
Username: staan

Post Number: 8
Registered: 9-2006
Posted on Friday, September 22, 2006 - 1:24 am:   Edit Post

..aammmm...sorry for being a novice..but i did not understand what you mean:
"Correct number of neck laminates for that period, and the *standard* omega."

....the bridge pickup is the same as the neck pickup...
it only appears different in the photo.....

Stan
staan
New
Username: staan

Post Number: 9
Registered: 9-2006
Posted on Friday, September 22, 2006 - 1:27 am:   Edit Post

0000
tbrannon
Intermediate Member
Username: tbrannon

Post Number: 158
Registered: 11-2004
Posted on Friday, September 22, 2006 - 2:27 am:   Edit Post

hmmm- it appears as though the neck pickup has been flipped upside down- I haven't the foggiest about why or what it might indicate, but it certainly looks as though the Alembic logo on the neck pickup is in that upper left hand corner and is upside down.

Whatever the case, it's a beautiful bass!
lbpesq
Senior Member
Username: lbpesq

Post Number: 1641
Registered: 7-2004
Posted on Friday, September 22, 2006 - 7:03 am:   Edit Post

Stan:

"Correct number of neck laminates" refers to the "stripes" in the neck. The way the (in your case) 7 pieces of wood are glued together to make your neck. The "standard omega" is the round cut out below the bridge. And as for the serial number, "86 4202", the 86 means 1986, the lack of any letters following the 86 means it is a Series I or Series II, and "4202" means it is the 4202nd instrument ever built by Alembic.

Bill, tgo

Topics | Last Day | Last Week | Tree View | Search | Help/Instructions | Program Credits Administration