| Author | Message | ||
| sermonator1
Junior Username: sermonator1 Post Number: 11 Registered: 6-2006 |
Hi Dave, Frank Manno here - I hope you are well. I was just curious: is there a thread (or can we create one) that has "quick reference" set up measurements? Sort of like the "charts" that are in Earlwines'(sp?) guitar repair book if you are familiar. I just bought a MK Std and am trying to set it up (this is my first Alembic set up) and I've been looking around the threads for specific relief, PU height, and string height measurements, etc, but can't find anything authoritative or real specific. (Perhaps I didn't look hard enough). If it is there, it would be handy to have it all in one spot for club members to quick reference. Let me know what you think or maybe just point me in the right direction - Let me know if I can do anything to help - All the best, Frank | ||
| richbass939
Senior Member Username: richbass939 Post Number: 750 Registered: 11-2004 |
Joey's setup thread is always a good place to start. http://alembic.com/club/messages/16271/16318.html?1107545767 Rich | ||
| sermonator1
Junior Username: sermonator1 Post Number: 12 Registered: 6-2006 |
Thanks Rich - that is helpful - have a nice weekend | ||
| bigredbass
Senior Member Username: bigredbass Post Number: 1068 Registered: 9-2002 |
Frank, the 'party line' is that they publish no 'factory' specs . . . as their is no factory ! As I've always been quick to point out, I WORE OUT Dan's book to learn setup. ALEMBICs are perfect to learn setup upon, as the feature set just makes it TOO easy to not learn to do it yourself. I'd start at the 'factory' settings for a Fender that Dan lists (though I'd be shocked if a new ALEMBIC wasn't already in that neighborhood), then use that as your starting point to develop your own numbers for your particular bass and style. My Spoiler Five with Markley NPS strings runs out at: --20 to 35/1000ths over the first fret, G to B --a neck relief of around 12 to 15/1000ths (I go to a dead straight neck and let back in just enough relief to kill almost all of the buzz you can hear through the amp). I adjust each truss rod to get to this on both sides of the fingerboard. Anything over 15 I can feel the 'dip', flatter than 10 to 12, it feels too straight. --string height over the last fret at about 1/8", a little less than that for the G, slanting up to a little more than that for the B: This is to compensate the for the larger arc as the strings get bigger, also reflected in the nut heights. --for now the FatBoys are about 1/4" under the unfretted strings, same clearance at all 4 corners: No tilt front-to-back, or side-to-side. . . . so it's a fairly low action with a slight relief. This is what suits me, this bass, and those strings. I also set it along a suggestion from Anthony Jackson I read in an interview: A little higher nut and a bit lower at the last fret. The string feel a little more 'parallel' to the fingerboard, instead of lower to higher, nut to last fret. Also, the BigRedBass is a '92 with deluxe (3 purpleheart strips) laminations. It's old enough to where I check the action once or twice a year, only to find out it really never appreciably moves to any real degree. I've used the same basic guages and brand for years, so between that and its age, it's VERY stable. J o e y | ||
| sermonator1
Junior Username: sermonator1 Post Number: 13 Registered: 6-2006 |
That is really helpful - thanks for taking the time Joey - I can't wait to try it out!! | ||
| davehouck
Moderator Username: davehouck Post Number: 4496 Registered: 5-2002 |
Hi Frank; The "standard" for setups around here is, as Rich pointed out, to send people to Joey's setup post as a starting point. That said, personally I feel that string height, neck relief and pickup height are all a matter of taste. For instance, on my bass I currently have the pickups lowered as far as they will go. You should adjust the heights to where they sound best to you. Of course one consideration to watch for is the strings hitting the pickups. The optimum neck setup is probably going to depend on your playing style. For instance, some folks around here employ Entwistle setups, which wouldn't work for many of the rest of us. Oh, and by the way, before you adjust the pickup heights for the first time, be sure to read the instructions and understand how the system works. Also, for bedtime reading, check out these posts on pickup heights. | ||
| bigredbass
Senior Member Username: bigredbass Post Number: 1071 Registered: 9-2002 |
Yes! There is NO 'right' setup, only what's right for you, whether that be high, low, pickups angled like crazy, etc. . . . The whole point is to teach yourself how to DO IT yourself, so you can perfect what's perfect for you. Every player and every bass is different: My setup works for me, and I posted those numbers as example, inasmuch as I felt you had looked at the 'factory' setup numbers that Dan reproduces in his book. I only wanted others to take advantage of the features built into these magnificent axes if they wanted to, NOT ape my settings as 'the only way to go'. I always get the biggest rush out of how different we all can be on a given topic and learn things I would not have considered, left to my own curmudgeony! As always, THANKS Dave! J o e y | ||
| sermonator1
Junior Username: sermonator1 Post Number: 14 Registered: 6-2006 |
Hey Guys - thanks for being there... I tried setting up my MK Std following various blog guidelines and it came out "OK." I think I may have to take a second pass at it as I feel the action is too hight. On the other hand, my '74 Series 1 just about set itself up! The whole thing took me about an hour. The MK std seems to be a bit more challanging. I can get the action so much lower on the S1 than the MK. I've got a bit to learn about set ups as well as patience! :-) Again, thanks for being there - it's great to be part of this "family." Frank | ||
| davehouck
Moderator Username: davehouck Post Number: 4500 Registered: 5-2002 |
I've already made three or four setup adjustments on my main bass this fall, and I noticed today I need to make another one. This particular bass is pretty "lively" in the spring and fall. Interestingly, what "feels right" to me has tended to change over time as my technique has changed. | ||
| sermonator1
Junior Username: sermonator1 Post Number: 15 Registered: 6-2006 |
Hi Dave - you said that you like to adjust your pups as far away from the strings as possible - why is that and how does it change the tone? Have a good day! Thanks! Frank | ||
| davehouck
Moderator Username: davehouck Post Number: 4501 Registered: 5-2002 |
Bob and Joey address this question in the threads referenced above. I have found that the lower the pickup, the cleaner the tone; and for me that seems to work. Others will prefer the tone produced by having the pickups closer to the strings. I just went back and read through the threads I referenced. Joey says that the closer the pickups are to the vibrating string, the more "excited" the coils become. My guess would have been that the effect on tone had to do with the relationship between the magnet and the vibrating string and how the change in distance affected that relationship. However, Joey's explanation that the change in gain caused by raising the pickups and it's subsequent effect on the coils causes a "hotter" tone seems to make sense to me. I do not have a great understanding of electromagnetic fields, so I don't know how to describe what might be happening to the field generated by the coils. Perhaps someone else around here will notice this thread and post a better explanation. | ||
| sermonator1
Junior Username: sermonator1 Post Number: 16 Registered: 6-2006 |
Thanks - I always heard that in general, the further away from the string the thinner the sound and the closer the warmer. I didn't know if that applied to Alembic pickups as well - thanks as always! | ||
| troy
New Username: troy Post Number: 2 Registered: 7-2002 |
I've been setting up my '83 spoiler just by what seemed right to me and it was turning out okay. It looks like I had the order right... nut, truss, bridge height, intonation... and tune tune tune every step along the way. I think my biggest problem was not leaving enough bow in the neck. I figured the straighter it is the better. Now I just set it up using Joey's numbers as a starting point (including a medium pick's thinkness of bow) and I am *very* pleased with the results. So.. thank you to Joey and everyone else for the great information! | ||
| davehouck
Moderator Username: davehouck Post Number: 5027 Registered: 5-2002 |
Hi Troy; glad it's working for you! | ||
| hankster
Intermediate Member Username: hankster Post Number: 120 Registered: 6-2004 |
I have had such success going back to Joey's post whenever I need to adjust my bass - it's the best. Joey, you have left a legacy. We are all much obliged. Rick | ||
| bigredbass
Senior Member Username: bigredbass Post Number: 1179 Registered: 9-2002 |
I always felt like if I could teach myself to understand and do this, ANYBODY could ! I can not recommend enough the Dan Erlewine book that taught me how: "The Guitar Player Repair Guide", available through www.StewMac.com, as well as Dan's EXCELLENT set of DVD's covering a lot of the subjects in the book. Gary Wills has some great tips in his website as well about setup. I also go to the Fender website to see the Guitar/Bass setup pdf in their manual section (the same book that comes with most new Fender basses) for basic numbers for other basses. I originally plowed into this as most guitar technicians (even VERY good ones) usually had NO clue WHY I'd expect a bass to play as easily as a lead guitar. 'Well, it's gonna rattle that low!' I'm nowhere close to an Entwistle 'behind-the-frets' mode. But I always felt like that if it was set up properly, the rattle was in my technique, my hands. And I got tired of shelling out $$$ and it STILL WASN'T playing the way I wanted. I was right. It just seemd that these basses were the perfect laboratory to teach myself this process. No separate neck, no bolts, no fixed nut, no separate tailpiece saddles. Everything I could do I could UN-do, without having to put on a new nut and start over, re-shim or un-shim the neck, no worries of losing too much wood unscrewing those neck bolts too many times while I was learning. I turned the BRB into a log SEVERAL times at first, till the light came on and I got it. I thought I'd never get a sense of the interplay of nut, relief, and bridge height. You will go through this as well. I'm no guitar tech. You DON'T want me around your axe with a soldering iron. But I GUARANTEE the BRB plays like butter, and yours can, too. Thank You All for the Compliments ! J o e y |
