| Author | Message | ||
| 82daion
Intermediate Member Username: 82daion Post Number: 143 Registered: 5-2005 |
Would it be possible to replace the 2-prong cord of my old DS5 with a 3-prong cord? The current power cord is extremely dried out, and I'd like to refresh it with something new, but I'm not sure what I need to buy. | ||
| edwin
Advanced Member Username: edwin Post Number: 335 Registered: 5-2002 |
Shouldn't be too hard. A lot of times when I need a new line cord, I'll just cut the end off an IEC cable, as I seem to have tons of those lying around. The third wire is a ground and it should be pretty obvious if you open up the power supply where this goes. One thing, in what country are you located? Edwin | ||
| davehouck
Moderator Username: davehouck Post Number: 6527 Registered: 5-2002 |
Edwin; Chris is in Ohio. | ||
| edwin
Advanced Member Username: edwin Post Number: 338 Registered: 5-2002 |
OK, being in the US myself, I didn't know if there were other issues in other countries, so I didn't want to offer advice that might get someone electrocuted. I've built a few of these, but I don't recall off the top of my head exactly where I put the ground wire from the line cord, but as I said, it should be obvious where the main ground is once you get in there. I think it also wouldn't be a problem to replace it with another two wire cord. Good grounding is obviously better, but you should be fine either way. Edwin | ||
| 82daion
Intermediate Member Username: 82daion Post Number: 147 Registered: 5-2005 |
Hmmm. Well, that certainly works as far as sourcing the cord, although I can afford to go a little fancier than that. ;-) I guess my real question is-how should I wire it? Looking at the innards, there's no ground immediately apparent-just two wires from the primary side of the transformer, wired to the cord with wire nuts, and bridged with another thicker wire. From the secondary of the transformer, there's a green wire and a red wire going to the caps, and a yellow one going to the "Bass/Mono" jack. | ||
| terryc
Senior Member Username: terryc Post Number: 489 Registered: 11-2004 |
Without seeing the inside, I would guess at attaching the earth(ground) to the chassis with a fixing lug, basically if some component or wire touches the chassis it will go to ground rather than you. I always back everything up with a RCB anyway | ||
| lbpesq
Senior Member Username: lbpesq Post Number: 3078 Registered: 7-2004 |
"RCB"? Royal Canadian Beer? Really Crazy Bush? Red Cocobolo Bass? Radical Cocaine Buyer? O.K., I'll bite. Bill, tgo | ||
| terryc
Senior Member Username: terryc Post Number: 492 Registered: 11-2004 |
Bill Residual Current Breaker, as we know them over here in the UK Mind you all of the above are okay | ||
| adriaan
Senior Member Username: adriaan Post Number: 1866 Registered: 6-2002 |
Hm, sounds like an aardlekschakelaar to me. No house should be without one (unless its a defective one). | ||
| lbpesq
Senior Member Username: lbpesq Post Number: 3080 Registered: 7-2004 |
Is this the same as a GFI (ground fault interrupt)? And if not, what is it? Should I have one? Am I born with it, or do I need to run out and buy one? HELLLLLLPPPPPP!!!!! Hey, is this just another way of saying "circuit breaker" like the ones built into my power strips? I GOTTA KNOW!!!!!!! Bill, tgo | ||
| adriaan
Senior Member Username: adriaan Post Number: 1867 Registered: 6-2002 |
Device that measures the incoming and outgoing current (in this case, for your entire house). If there's a big difference, there must be a short-circuit, and the device cuts off electricity instantly. | ||
| lbpesq
Senior Member Username: lbpesq Post Number: 3081 Registered: 7-2004 |
Do we have such a device in the U.S.? What's it called? Bill, tgo | ||
| tbrannon
Senior Member Username: tbrannon Post Number: 739 Registered: 11-2004 |
Bill, RCB's are the same thing as our circuit breakers. | ||
| keith_h
Senior Member Username: keith_h Post Number: 1010 Registered: 2-2005 |
Bill, We call them GFCI or GFI breakers/outlets in North America. Keith | ||
| 82daion
Intermediate Member Username: 82daion Post Number: 148 Registered: 5-2005 |
 Here's the innards. If I understand correctly, then, the ground simply needs to be affixed to the chassis? | ||
| terryc
Senior Member Username: terryc Post Number: 493 Registered: 11-2004 |
Looks that way, all electrical equipment(in the UK) is earthed(grounded) to the metal chassis as I said usually by a fixing lug. You could fix the ground wire to that screw holding the capacitor clamp | ||
| rjw
Intermediate Member Username: rjw Post Number: 194 Registered: 11-1995 |
yes, connect the green safety ground to the chassis. the UL requirements for a ground is to use a separate bolt for the ground (as opposed to a mounting bolt since it's more likely for vibration to loosen the nut due to the mass of the component). of course we use Keps nuts and if they are properly tightened they don't loosen, but requirements don't take that into consideration. you could also strip the cord longer and take the safety ground to the same lug where the yellow transformer wire connects, and this wouldn't require drilling a hole and getting a solder lug, etc. the device in series with one side of the primary winding (with the thick wire leads) is a thermal protector that opens if the transformer starts heating up due to an overload, disconnecting the power before the temperature would rise enough to destroy the insulation. wire nuts are used since the heat of a soldering iron causes the thermal protector to fail instantly. installing a three-wire cordset won't cause a GFI or RCB to trip, so works in all situations. the transformer with two wires was an off-the-shelf Stancor model TP-2 and works only on 115 VAC. we had custom transformers made that are identical in size that had two primary windings so you connect them in parallel for 115 VAC or in series for 230 VAC. (just a note in case someone reads this and finds their transformer has four wires on the primary side). | ||
| 82daion
Intermediate Member Username: 82daion Post Number: 149 Registered: 5-2005 |
Thanks for the information, Ron, and thanks for taking the time to respond. This is what I needed to know-when I have a little more time on my hands, I'll go ahead and replace the cord. | ||
| terryc
Senior Member Username: terryc Post Number: 494 Registered: 11-2004 |
well there you have it, you could not get better advice than from the man himself | ||
| davehouck
Moderator Username: davehouck Post Number: 6543 Registered: 5-2002 |
Cool! | ||
| 82daion
Intermediate Member Username: 82daion Post Number: 151 Registered: 5-2005 |
Well, I replaced the cord, and everything seems to work-there's nothing electrified that shouldn't be, and power is getting to the bass just fine. However, I don't have an amp to test things here with me, so the jury's out on the success of the operation until tomorrow. | ||
| 82daion
Intermediate Member Username: 82daion Post Number: 152 Registered: 5-2005 |
It works! *does jig* I know that this was a simple operation, but I'm pleased that it turned out well, considering my relative inexperience with electronics repair. | ||
| davehouck
Moderator Username: davehouck Post Number: 6558 Registered: 5-2002 |
Congrats!! | ||
| freefuzz
Junior Username: freefuzz Post Number: 15 Registered: 2-2008 |
no hum? | ||
| 82daion
Intermediate Member Username: 82daion Post Number: 154 Registered: 5-2005 |
The hum/noise is no better or worse than with the original cable. This was done more as a means of protecting myself from questionable wiring in venues, since I'm going to start singing backups in my band. |
