| Author | Message | ||
| cshepguy
New Username: cshepguy Post Number: 4 Registered: 9-2004 |
Hi, I am selling my alembic distillate bass on ebay, but I would love to get as much information on it as I could beforehand. The serial number is 82D2233. | ||
| bsee
Advanced Member Username: bsee Post Number: 310 Registered: 3-2004 |
I don't understand. You had three bids, and your auction ended three days ago with a winner. Isn't the bass already sold? -Bob | ||
| keavin
Senior Member Username: keavin Post Number: 479 Registered: 12-2002 |
Also can i get a birthdate on 72-12 please? | ||
| cshepguy
New Username: cshepguy Post Number: 5 Registered: 9-2004 |
Top bidder would only pay paypal, second bidder never responded to second chance offer. | ||
| valvil
Moderator Username: valvil Post Number: 548 Registered: 7-2002 |
Hello there, this is what we have on file for this bass: 1982 4 string medium scale distillate bass Walnut top maple/purpleheart neck ebony fretboard mother of pearl oval inlays Schaller tuners Neck width custom ordered 1/16th of an inch narrower than standard taper. Completed 9/21/82 That's it. Sorry Keavin, but the competion date for the early instruments was rarely kept, and there is none for yours. I can tell you, however that it was probably in the late part of the year, since #19 is from 1973. Valentino | ||
| bsee
Advanced Member Username: bsee Post Number: 312 Registered: 3-2004 |
Hmm, that sounds interesting. Too bad about the cracks. Still, I might like to get in touch with you locally to examine the bass and maybe make you a cash offer or a trade if you're looking for something different. I have an early Euro Spector 4 that's in pretty good shape that I never play anymore because I prefer the shorter scale. I think it's value is in the same range as you got on eBay for your Distillate. I live about 10 minutes south of Worcester, so a meet could be convenient. -Bob | ||
| bsee
Advanced Member Username: bsee Post Number: 313 Registered: 3-2004 |
Well, I visited with this bass for a few minutes today. The bass is owned by a pawn shop, not a private party. If it were in perfect shape, I'd pay $1500 for it. As it is, I wouldn't pay anything without a half hour to go at it with my toolkit. Unfortunately, they won't let me touch it until the current eBay auction is over, and it will probably sell this time around, so it's a moot point. If anyone out there is interested, here's what I saw: The headstock appears to have been just about broken off, though the top veneers either held or were replaced. The crack on the body runs right to the volume pot, but appears to be solid. The body seems smaller and lighter than my Persuader, almost like a 3/4 size. It is thin front-to-back and pretty flat at the bottom. I haven't seen a Distillate before to know if this is standard. The neck is extremely comfortable and should be quite playable if it will take a proper setup. For setup, the nut has been deeply cut and raised. It looks like it needs replacing. More important than that, the neck is straight on the bass side and has a back bow on the treble side. I would want to make sure that the truss rod is at least operational to attemp to correct this before making a purchase. Electronically, the volume pot spins freely with almost no resistance. Something is definitely wrong there, and it may have taken damage in the body cracking incident. I would want to open up the back and see what's up there, maybe that's an aftermarket pot? If the neck setup can be repaired and the electronics are really okay, then I'd pay the $795 for the bass, but probably not any more than that, especially without knowing what it would cost to repair the things that are definitely broken. Does anyone know the cost of a replacement nut and/or replacement volume pot? -Bob | ||
| poor_nigel
Advanced Member Username: poor_nigel Post Number: 250 Registered: 7-2003 |
I paid $35 for a blank 5-string nut. Note: They come blank, as each is finished to the particular neck it is used on and then grooved to suit that neck and which ever strings the buyer has specified (I believe). So be prepared for at least a couple of hours of work to cut it to size, file in the grooves, round up the sharp corners, and buff it out. I did this with my Dremel and a set of files that cost more than the nut did. I have no ideas about replacement pots. | ||
| bsee
Advanced Member Username: bsee Post Number: 314 Registered: 3-2004 |
I would probably want to send the original or a tracing of the original to Alembic and have them cut it. I don't know, but I doubt they would charge too much for the basic cutting. I would have no problem creating the string grooves, but I would prefer the basic size, shape, and height-adjuster holes to be done for me. But it really doesn't matter, because I doubt they will let me examine the bass closely enough to feel comfortable about making a purchase. | ||
| poor_nigel
Advanced Member Username: poor_nigel Post Number: 251 Registered: 7-2003 |
"height-adjuster holes" I'm sorry Bob, I was not very clear. The 'blank' has the adjuster holes done and has the screws in it. I believe I was quoted $90 for a finished nut, when I was inquiring about sending in a bass for a new fretboard and nut. Info on such matters is always useful down the road, so this is not a waste of time. Honestly Bob, I think you are better off waiting until the right one comes along. The few hundred you get off for the bass being messed up, is usually thousands to get it fixed up proper. Best to find one in dandy condition and pay the right price for it. The market is always flooded with something, until you start looking for one, eh? I waited three years until the right S II went on eBay. Glad I waited. | ||
| bsee
Advanced Member Username: bsee Post Number: 316 Registered: 3-2004 |
If I were looking for the ultimate bas to have and love, I'd agree with you. I am just looking for a four that fits me and sounds pretty good to decide whether I want to invest in a souped up custom four or five. As such, a bass like this would work just fine, and if I put in $900 to own it as a player and sold it for $750 a few months down the road, I'd consider it a pretty fair investment. -Bob | ||
| kungfusheriff
Intermediate Member Username: kungfusheriff Post Number: 160 Registered: 8-2003 |
Bob, If you choose to take that road, look me up when it's time to sell. I like the bass, but that headstock crack scares me so badly I won't touch it as is. I live in driving distance of you. KFS | ||
| bsee
Advanced Member Username: bsee Post Number: 320 Registered: 3-2004 |
Sheriff, it appears to have been pretty well repaired. It didn't appear to separate any when I put pressure on the headstock. As a player's bass, most of my concern is around the electronics and the truss rod. If the rod is stripped, then this is a big waste of time. Just about anything else with it can be worked around. Heck, I bet you could even apply one of then brass plates over the control section and hide the body crack entirely a la the early Japanese models. Come to think of it, I didn't get to plug it in and the strings seemed a bit on the loose side. The back bow may have been reduced by bringing it up to tension, but maybe there was some fear about the headstock that prevented them from doing this? It's in a shop near the Greendale Mall in Worcester, so if you're close enough to check it out, send me an email and I'll get you more details on the location. This is very disappointing to me since it is exactly what I am looking for. At least, it would be if it works. -Bob | ||
| kungfusheriff
Intermediate Member Username: kungfusheriff Post Number: 161 Registered: 8-2003 |
Re-read your post and have my fingers crossed on the truss rod issue...if you're serious, step back in there, flash some cash and demand a little screwdriver time. Bring your allen wrenches, 1/4" wrench and adjustable pliers to be safe. If they balk, you walk. I'm near Albany, NY and don't have a lot of time on my hands, so an in-person visit is not in the cards. I couldn't care less about the crack in the top lam--but how the heck do you manage to crack walnut like that?--and if you say the head's solid I'll trust your judgement. However, at the risk of seeming rude, I can't say I'm too hot on dealing with the shop directly, at least based on what's transpired on this page so far. | ||
| bsee
Advanced Member Username: bsee Post Number: 321 Registered: 3-2004 |
I think the bass fell off of a stand, or the player's neck, and landed hard on the plug. It's obviously had a hard life to get that walnut crack and have the headstock mostly severed. Like I say, I wouldn't recommend a bid to anyone at any price without a bit more examination. We'll see. Maybe if a few days go by and there are still no bids, they will become more willing to accomodate my request. I am still in communication with the seller and hope to convince him. I think it's in their best interest for me to setup the instrument. Forget intonation for now, I just want to make it playable. Either the truss rod will work and I will buy it, or they will know that they are going to get slammed when the eBay buyer gets a back-bowed bass with a stripped truss rod. I highly suspect that $150 buys me a new volume pot and nut if that's what it needs to become playable. I just want to know before I make an offer. If I want to gamble, there's an Indian casino a few miles up the road. -Bob |
