| Author | Message | ||
| hydrargyrum
Member Username: hydrargyrum Post Number: 89 Registered: 3-2004 |
I am interested in finding an SF-2 if anyone should decide that they don't care for theirs. I have a Moog MURF I would be interested in trading. For those not familiar with the MURF, check the following link: http://www.moogmusic.com/detail.php?main_product_id=111 Best Wishes, Kevin | ||
| rusty
New Username: rusty Post Number: 6 Registered: 11-2003 |
I have an SF2 and would be interested in that trade. The only thing is that, while it works fine, it does cut out occasionally because of the connection to the wall wart. I think it's a very minor repair. You wiggle it and it goes back on. | ||
| hydrargyrum
Intermediate Member Username: hydrargyrum Post Number: 101 Registered: 3-2004 |
Rusty, you have some mail. Lets talk about that connection problem, and see what happens. | ||
| hydrargyrum
Intermediate Member Username: hydrargyrum Post Number: 102 Registered: 3-2004 |
Are there any threads which deal with loose connections on superfilter-2's, and modifications to their cords that someone can point me to? Assuming that the barrel adapter is loose on the SF-2, any guess how much repair would cost, and how much time it would take? | ||
| lbpesq
Senior Member Username: lbpesq Post Number: 424 Registered: 7-2004 |
I had an SF-2 repaired recently. If I remember correctly, the minimum bench time charge was about $75. This wound up covering the repair and I had it back fairly quickly, maybe a week or two? Unfortunately, it is now back at Alembic again after falling ten feet off of a pile of stuff on a loading dock to a cement floor. (It's my bass player's. Mine, owned by a guitar player, has never suffered such rude treatment while in my possession - LOL). Bill, tgo | ||
| hydrargyrum
Intermediate Member Username: hydrargyrum Post Number: 103 Registered: 3-2004 |
Yes, bass players can be a clumsy lot (throws up arms in defensive posture). After all, most of them don't even seem to have the dexterity to manage more than four strings (prepares for gunshots). Its best we keep them in the back of the mix and out of view on stage (braces for impact). After all, everyone knows that the crowd is there to see the lead guitar . . . (oh man, am I ever gonna catch hell!!). But seriously, that sounds great Bill. I wasn't sure how repair times compared for electronics versus instruments. I will keep my fingers crossed that things turn up golden. | ||
| drjenney
Junior Username: drjenney Post Number: 20 Registered: 11-2004 |
The connection problem you describe is pretty common, since those adapters get yanked everytime someone trips over the cord. I haven't been inside a Super Filter, but here's the standard procedure for fixing one [I'm going to assume you have already eliminated the cord as the problem.]: You need to unplug the unit and disassemble it to expose the printed circuit board. Chances are the adapter is housed in a plastic box, which is in turn mounted to the circuit board with a couple of pins (2-4) on the bottom. Check to see if the housing wiggles or if you can see any loose solder joints at the pins. If you can, you'll need to resolder those pins. Mark the pins with a felt pen, Position the circuit board so the adapter is on the bottom and the weight of the circut board is on the adapter (use a couple of books) [The weight will help seat the adapter during the next step.]. Apply some rosin/flux, then touch the hot solder iron to each pin, one at a time. Each should reseal. If necessary, apply a bit more solder to each pin, but do NOT use any more than absolutely necessary [always use rosin core solder for electronic repairs, never acid core]. Hold the soldering iron on the pin only just long enough to liquify the solder on the pin and the board connection. After cooling, the joint should look shiney [not dull and grey]. The pins should be stable and the housing should not wiggle. The new joints should not join any other connections than the originals did [Too much solder can run and bridge a couple of pins, creating all sorts of problems.] In the worst case, the housing will be cracked and you'll need to remove it and replace it. Take it with you to a nearby Radio Shack. They probably have the part. Then install it as described. Test the unit, wiggling the adapter carefully to make sure the problem is gone. Reassemble the unit when done. Estimated total time: 30 minutes. Estimated cost $0.05 [for solder] or $3.55 [if you need a new housing]. Estimated cost if you have a tech do it: $50-$100. Estimated turn around time: 3 weeks and 1 hour [three weeks sitting on the shelf waiting, 30 minutes to repair it and 30 minutes to write the bill up and call you to tell you it's done!]. | ||
| hydrargyrum
Intermediate Member Username: hydrargyrum Post Number: 104 Registered: 3-2004 |
Although it could be tempting to fix something like this, I am not sure I would trust myself. If I have someone else do it I will have someone to yell at if things turn sour. Otherwise I will have to yell at myself, and people just stare too much when I do that. | ||
| mica
Moderator Username: mica Post Number: 2386 Registered: 6-2000 |
Rusty, is the wall wart the originally supplied one? | ||
| rusty
New Username: rusty Post Number: 8 Registered: 11-2003 |
The wall wart is not original. But the problem was the grounding. It was not making good contact with the wall wart,and meter readings were intermitent. The problem seems to be fixed, the readings are now steady. If it should become a problem again, the part that connects to power supply to the circuit board could be replaced. I would imagine that the part is not costly (Mica?) and you just plug it in. No soldering would be required. Part of me is dreading getting rid of the sf-2. But I have eliminated all of my rack stuff from my set-up, and have gone to all floor based effects. I love effects but I hate to tweak on stage if I can't do it with my foot. Off topic- Mica, chalk me up as a vote for a Trey Anastsio type hollowbody Alembic model, (I would gladly test drive it for you.) |
