| Author | Message | ||
| goop
New Username: goop Post Number: 1 Registered: 7-2008 |
Hi there. I just joined the forum and wanted to say hello. Nice to see fellow Canadians and Torontonians on board here. I am not a hard core player as most of you, but have played recreationally on and off since I bought my first bass in 1979; a Rickenbacker 4001 from Steves. I think it was Cygnus X-1 that pushed me over the edge. I also recently played a Status graphite 5 string. I love all styles of music and love many basses. I would like the chance to play a Jaydee Supernatural, another highly regarded crafted bass from England. I have always admired and respected the Alembics but find the models and body styles a little confusing. Is there a good site with a historical pictorial? As an example, the Mark King comes in the one bodie that resembles and old series 1 (standard?) and another wild looking body (deluxe?). I've also noticed the older series basses have a variety of body shapes. Is a pre amp necessary with all Alembics, or only if it is active? Are all the models available in active or passive? Are all models neck through? Anyway, again just wanted to say hi and thanks in advance for your help in figuring out what the right first Alembic for me will be. Cheers. Colin | ||
| mike1762
Member Username: mike1762 Post Number: 85 Registered: 1-2008 |
Whereas most manufactures "models" are often based on shape, Alembic "models" are based on the electronic package. You can pretty much get any body shape with any electronics, but you would tend to refer to your Series I as a "Series I" whether it was the long scale point body or a short scale small body. Example: The Mark King model has signature electronics but the same body style as the Series I you speak of. The more "economical" Alembics have set necks, but the construction is still hand crafted and very high end. A set neck might actually be more conducive to tone you are looking for. All Alembics are active. An external power supply is usually used with the Series I & II instruments. I hope I didn't tell any lies. I'm sure someone else will correct me if so. Welcome aboard. | ||
| davehouck
Moderator Username: davehouck Post Number: 6805 Registered: 5-2002 |
Hi Colin; welcome to the board! There is a lot of information available here, and there are lots of knowledgeable members as well. As a starting point you'll want to read through the FAQ and Must Reads sections of the board. Another place you'll find of interest is the Showcase section. I would add to Mike's assessment by saying that even the electronics packages can be changed as well. | ||
| mike1762
Member Username: mike1762 Post Number: 86 Registered: 1-2008 |
Colin When I decided to get my first Alembic, I really struggled with all the choices. Probably the first thing you have to decide is what scale length (Long, Medium, or Short). My first Alembic was a medium scale Spoiler. The medium scale length was an easy transition from having played long scale basses for years. My second Alembic was a short scale SC bass. The short scale was a easy transition from the Spoiler. Then I got my long scale Series I...I felt like I needed arm extensions after having gotten used to the SC!!! Now I can go from one to the the other without much trouble, but my short scale is the most comfortable bass for me. The Spoiler electronics are simple but flexible. Your only decisions are what PUPs (via a PUP selector switch), to "Q" or not to "Q", and then tweak away with the tone knob. The Signature electronics (found on models with somebody's name on it) have a blend knob rather than a PUP selector switch and a "Q" for each PUP. The tonal pallate is expanded with this package. The Series I instruments are a different animal. The PUPs are single coil with a "dummy" coil for noise cancelling. The PUP selector switch is back, but each PUP had its own volume knob as well as a 2 position "Q" switch. Be sure to read about the "Q" switch: it allows tweaking that far exceeds the typical tone control. Several other electronic packages are available, but the above 3 give you an idea of the possibilities. Lots of body shapes are available. Some work better with a given configuration. You probably would not want a long scale bass with a small body secondary to "neck dive". For the same reason, you have to be careful with 5-6 string small profile bodies. I don't think I've ever seen a short scale in anything other than the small profile body. If you are thinking about a new build, the last (and most complicated) thing you have to consider is the wood "recipe". There is a lot to consider with an Alembic. It's not like buying a FJ..."I'll take the blue one"!!! Be sure you play a few before buying. However, unless the instrument is used, some dealers will have a Nigel Tufnel "DON'T TOUCH IT!!!" policy. Call ahead of time and be sure they will allow you to play the instruments. You will notice an immediate difference between the Alembic and your other basses just holding it. | ||
| goop
New Username: goop Post Number: 3 Registered: 7-2008 |
"DON'T EVEN LOOK AT IT". I love that line. I have been reading all of the recommendations and found the body styles on the site. I couldn't find any info on prior bodies though. Thanks for the info guys. Colin | ||
| davehouck
Moderator Username: davehouck Post Number: 6829 Registered: 5-2002 |
By the way, the quote generator is back up. If you haven't checked it out, it's very helpful. Pretty much all past body styles are still available as they tend to keep all the templates. | ||
| davehouck
Moderator Username: davehouck Post Number: 6832 Registered: 5-2002 |
Oh, another page you might find interesting is the history page. |
