| Author | Message | ||
| Roger Smith (rogertvr)
New Username: rogertvr Post Number: 1 Registered: 1-2003 |
Hello everyone, Firstly, a Happy New Year to you all…! This is my first posting in the Alembic forum, although I have been reading the posts for some time… I’ve been playing bass guitar now for 23 years and I first played an Alembic in May 1994 (it was a Series I in a very odd shade of blue), when I visited my local music shop to buy some strings. I still remember the experience now, I’ve never played anything like it before or since. My favourite current bass is my 1980 Rickenbacker 4001 in Azureglo, which I have owned from new and I would still run into a burning building to save it. I’ve been dreaming of an Alembic since the Series I ‘incident’ and I’m now getting close to the point where I can afford what I really want. With such a bespoke handcrafted instrument, there are always going to be questions before anyone even thinks about starting to build it, so I thought I would start to ask them (at long last). I’d like to say thanks to Mica for posting me the Alembic brochure last year, that is now starting to look well thumbed and has proved invaluable in guiding my choice of bass…which is… …A Mark King Deluxe, with a few little changes to it (well – a few at the moment) from the standard spec. Answers gratefully accepted to the following questions from anyone who would like to take the time and trouble to answer them for me please! 1). I absolutely love the size, shape and feel of the neck on my 4001. I have fairly small hands, so Fender size necks are out! I would like my Alembic to have the same neck dimensions as my 4001. How do I help Alembic achieve this? Also, I am seriously considering the Tree of Life or the Dragon on the fretboard – does changing the dimensions of the neck affect the ability to do this? 2). I have a particular liking for Elites Stadium stainless steel strings in 35 – 55 – 75 – 95 gauge. Would Alembic be able to set my new bass up with these strings from day one? I’ll post you a set if I have to! To coin a phrase from the late Mr. Entwistle – ‘I like my action so low the strings are on the other side of the frets’. I assume new Alembics are set-up like this anyway are they? 3). What is the size of the body on a Mark King Deluxe across the widest point? 4). Regarding the side position markers on the neck – I’m considering either aluminium or silver for these. Are they lacquered over? I’m concerned that the aluminium or silver will tarnish in time. That’s about it for the time being – but no doubt there will be many more questions as time goes on and I finalise the spec of this instrument! Thanks again! Roger | ||
| Paul Lindemans (palembic)
Intermediate Member Username: palembic Post Number: 163 Registered: 9-2002 |
Hi Roger, welcome to the club. Thanks for sharing this moment with us: it will do us all pleasure to see the baby growing in Alembics "lap" (HA!!). 1. I don't think they charge for wider or smaller neck set-ups. I don't know for "an exact copy of" a neck. The best way to do is to bring over the bass so it can be measured I guess. It will be difficult from the UK. But if you have a standard Rickenbacker neck-width, it could be found in Santa Rosa. I know there are some measurement techniques for copying necks but I never did it. If THE tree of life will fit I don't know but I bet they will fit A tree of life. 2. Of course. But don't forget: the strings will react differently on the Alembic than on the Rickenbacker. There is a huge chance that your first reactions will be some "huh's?" 3 and 4 there will be a brother or sister who knows the answers. Question: any idea's about the wood yet? Or that will be for the moment you enter the "Customer to factory" department? Or the "wood bank". Bye. Paul (Message edited by palembic on January 03, 2003) | ||
| Roger Smith (rogertvr)
New Username: rogertvr Post Number: 2 Registered: 1-2003 |
Thanks for your reply Paul, already some interesting thoughts to trigger my imagination! Wood - Coco Bolo, end of story! As for choosing it - I'll have to think about that when I get to that point! | ||
| Joey Wilson (bigredbass)
Junior Username: bigredbass Post Number: 34 Registered: 9-2002 |
Welcome to the Club, Roger! I think you'll find this to be an invaluable source of information regarding Alembics. Your questions: 1) I would suggest for your Mark King to try the neck profiles from the Series instruments. These have a small taper from one end of the fingerboard to the other. As I remember, Ricks have necks which flare only slightly at the top. The Series necks are like this, and can be incorporated into a Mark King. Alembic can answer this, and could duplicate your neck exactly if asked. They could then answer your inlay question. 2) These are smaller guages than standard, but the bass could be set for this exact set. BE REAL SURE, because you might need the fret slot/bridge saddles enlarged should you go to the average 45-105 set at a later date. I do my own setup, and a very low action is easily possible with a light touch, like John was reported to have, or I have developed. 3) Mica could answer this question. 4) The side dots are not under finish. Alembic leaves the ebony fingerboards unfinished, as ebony doesn't require it. They ask that you oil the fingerboard a few times each year. My Alembic has the standard bronze side dots, and I've never had any corrosion at all. Incidentally, Alembics aren't laquered. It's a poly finish, except in the case of the oil-finished instruments. The MKs are terrific instruments, and I hope you're thrilled with your new Alembic. Welcome to owning a legend. Alembic's website has lots of information to go along with the topics here in the Club. | ||
| Valentino Villevieille (valvil)
Junior Username: valvil Post Number: 34 Registered: 7-2002 |
Hello Roger, and welcome! my 2 cents 1) You say that " Fender necks are out of the question" and if you are talking about Precision basses, particularly the old "baseball bat" necks of the early 60s, I totally agree that they are too big for small hands( which I also have); however the neck on Fender Jazz is quite slim, and worthy of consideration, I think. I've had 3 Alembics made with it and 1 more on the way, and just about everyone who's played them ranked as the easiest basses they had ever played . BTW Coco Bolo rules! It doesn't just look spectacular, it sounds like nothing else around. 2) I believe Alembics are generally set up for medium action, since there's no telling who's gonna be playing it in a store and everyone has a different touch; having said that, when you order a custom instrument, you can of course specify the type of action you want ; as for the strings, just send them to Alembic once you place your order and they'll take it from there. Alembic will also consider the humidity factor of the area you live in, while setting it up, but be aware that due to the impredictability of the weather sometimes necks will move a bit during traveling or if exposed to sudden changes in humidity. Still, that is something that is quite simple to correct end easy to learn how to do on your own. 3) As Paul & Joey said 4) I have one bass with Aluminum side dots, it's been close to 2 years, no corrosion or tarnish whatsoever. | ||
| Mica Wickersham (mica)
Moderator Username: mica Post Number: 558 Registered: 6-2000 |
Hi Roger, Wow, you almost don't need my help at all! Here's what I can confirm/add to the discussion: 1a. You can order any fingerboard dimensions by specifying the width at the nut and the last fret you can measure (please specify if it isn't the 24th fret). On a Mark King model there is no additional charge for this service. Likewise we can carve the neck any way you like, but that is much harder to describe remotely. As sugested, you can send us a bass you like the neck on and we will duplicate the feel. 1b. We'll scale the artwork to fit the fingerboard size on your bass. Since the inlay work is done completely by hand, it won't be a problem. 2. If you've got a specific brand or gauge of string you want used, just send me a set and we'll make the bass to suit those strings. This is especially important in England where it seems 45s are considered "heavy" gauges. Enlarging the slots is easily done by a professional, but if you want the strings much smaller than originally supplied, you'll need a new nut, new saddles, and a professional setup. Without instructions otherwise, we set up with very low action, then raise it so most players can use it. We want to know it will play low, as raising is simple if you've undershot it. 3. The 4-string Mark King averages just shy of 15" - of course it does depend on the neck width. 4. As reported above, the fingerboards are left unfinished, including the sides. Bronze, silver and aluminum all will tarnish some. The aluminum tarnishes the least and will usually not show becuase even casually wiping with your finger removes it. If the silver or bronze dots get very tarnished, a light sanding along the edge will expose a fresh untarnished surface. Hey - LEDs won't tarnish at all. | ||
| Roger Smith (rogertvr)
New Username: rogertvr Post Number: 3 Registered: 1-2003 |
I'd like to thank everyone for their help and suggestions. Mica's post has about sealed the answers to my questions, so I'm going to have a good think about what I want and see if I can find an Alembic or two to play, just so that I can experience a few options first-hand (hopefully). In the words of Arnie - "I'll be back". No doubt with more questions! |
