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rover
New
Username: rover

Post Number: 1
Registered: 2-2003
Posted on Wednesday, December 15, 2004 - 9:33 am:   Edit Post

I purchased this bass after finding it last month on the Swap list, and need your help. First, the bass has broken straplocks, including one with the screw broken inside. Poor_Nigel had indicated that they are standard Dunlops…are they truly easy for my local music shop to remove and install or do I need to send it back to Alembic? More importantly, I’m not sure the electronics are working properly and could use guidance on a couple of the controls (there was no documentation). What are the different positions of the selector switch and does it make sense that the bridge pickup does not work in any selector switch setting if the mono/stereo switch is in the forward position? Lastly, and to fully show my ignorance, is there any function served by the stereo mode if playing through a single cabinet? Thanks in advance to any and all who can help. (Offline replies okay.) Despite the eventual price and related issues, it is the finest bass I’ve ever owned. Unfortunately, it is prompting me to again consider ordering a custom as well...

Thanks
echo008
Intermediate Member
Username: echo008

Post Number: 163
Registered: 2-2003
Posted on Wednesday, December 15, 2004 - 11:01 am:   Edit Post

Hi,
With the mono/Stereo Switch to the front, you are in Stereo mode, Pushing the Switch back you should be able to control the back PUP.
The Selector switch is Down=off, up one =Bridge PUP, up two= Both PUP's and finally up three=neck PUP.
If you are running stereo you will need two cabs as well as two preamps/amps or a Stereo preamp that can take two signals and route them out to 2 cabs, you cannot run stereo into a single cab.
echo008
Intermediate Member
Username: echo008

Post Number: 164
Registered: 2-2003
Posted on Wednesday, December 15, 2004 - 11:35 am:   Edit Post

before I forget again ....WELCOME! and congrats on getting a great bass.
theres one more thing I wanted to add ... to run stereo you also need , a Stereo cable, thats one end having a single 1/4 inch TRS connnector and at the other end are two 1/4 inch "TS" connectors.
heres an example:
http://www.cobaltcable.com/product/insert_cable.htm

- Tom
poor_nigel
Senior Member
Username: poor_nigel

Post Number: 456
Registered: 7-2003
Posted on Wednesday, December 15, 2004 - 2:31 pm:   Edit Post

Hey Robert, welcome and congratulations on the acquisition of such a fine bass.

"including one with the screw broken inside."

This is hard to picture. If the screw was broken, the strap lock would fall out of its hole. Do you mean that the head is striped, so it cannot be unscrewed? Do you mean the screw broke off, the strap lock is out, and the shaft of the screw is stuck in the bass?

Any music store can order gold Dunlop strap locks for about $20 - $25 (Internet price) for the whole set. However, it depends on just what you meant by the screw being broken as to whom and where the bass should be repaired by. If the screw is broken off in the bass, since you are talking a very good bass, I would consider a master luthier, and possibly a flight to Boston/NY or Santa Rosa, depending on which coast you live on. Let's stop there, until the problem is defined in clearer terms.
rover
New
Username: rover

Post Number: 2
Registered: 2-2003
Posted on Wednesday, December 15, 2004 - 8:14 pm:   Edit Post

Thanks for the welcome and the assistance. Next time, I'll double check the spelling of my topic header.

Just to correct and clarify, I do not get any sound from the bridge pickup when the stereo/mono switch is in the back/tail position. When the switch is in the forward (toward neck) position moving the Selector Switch's tapered/pointed end results in: point toward neck = Off; point down one = Bridge PUP; point toward floor = both PUPS; point toward tail = neck PUP. Is this backwards? It seems counterintuitive for the tapered end not to be a "pointer" in the direction of the selected PUP.

As to the strap locks, I will attempt to upload a picture, but assuming that doesn't go smoothly...a Phillips screw head is visible in one of the strap lock holes, but does not screw out (at a certain point the screw just turns without exiting). The other hole shows no Phillips head, just metal. Something may have broken off, but it's hard to tell because the metal is flush with the casing. (Forgive the simple-speak...I have never used strap locks and am unfamiliar with their operation or lingo.)

If I truly need a master luthier, I could use some referrals. While I'd love to visit Santa Rosa, it's a bit far from Northport on Long Island, NY and there are no Alembic dealers in the state of NY. The closest is several hours away in CT. If I need to make the trip, I will, but if Dunlop strap locks are easily repaired I would make some calls to local guitar outlets. All that said, I don't want to leave the bass with anyone who could hurt it.

Again, thanks for the welcome and I'm glad to see that aficionados of the holy grail of basses don't assume a holier than thou attitude when sharing their knowledge.

Rob
}}
rover
New
Username: rover

Post Number: 3
Registered: 2-2003
Posted on Wednesday, December 15, 2004 - 8:30 pm:   Edit Post

As you can (not) see, I was unable to upload the picture since the attachment was apparently too large. Since I can't compress the pic further, I hope my verbal description suffices.

Thanks,
Rob
rover
New
Username: rover

Post Number: 4
Registered: 2-2003
Posted on Wednesday, December 15, 2004 - 8:56 pm:   Edit Post

One more attempt...
poor_nigel
Senior Member
Username: poor_nigel

Post Number: 458
Registered: 7-2003
Posted on Wednesday, December 15, 2004 - 11:53 pm:   Edit Post

You can use a .050 Alan wrench to loosen both set screws in the chicken-head pickup selector knob and then turn it around 180 degrees and tighten it back up. My selector switch used to point the same way, and it seemed backwards. Turning it 180 degrees should make it more logical for you. I left mine as it was and just got used to it.

I only know of one luthier in NYC that I have dealt with, and he did an immaculate job refretting my old Les Paul Bass. Jimmy Copollo at the New York Guitar and Bass Boutique. Here is a link to his site:

http://www.guitarboutique.com/

Others here may have more recent experience with luthiers in your area who have considerable experience in the repair of Alembics. Just because someone sells something, does not mean they are experts at fixing them. Since the straps locks are recessed and the finish is older (so a bit more on the brittle side), it is easier to pop a chip out of the finish if you try to force anything in this situation. The price Jimmy (or anyone) would charge to remove and replace the strap locks properly is, I'm sure, far less than the $1,150, plus shipping, price tag of a refinish job at Santa Rosa.

Anniversary basses are great basses. I know you will enjoy yours for years to come.
kungfusheriff
Advanced Member
Username: kungfusheriff

Post Number: 228
Registered: 8-2003
Posted on Thursday, December 16, 2004 - 12:22 am:   Edit Post

Rover,
Your pickup-selector issue seems cosmetic at best; one of the perils of living with Alembic basses is adjusting to the quirks their designers built into them. Believe me, a pickup selector that works 100% counter-intuitively is less than others have dealt with. I urge you to follow poor_nigel's example.
Re: your straplock dilemma, if they work leave them alone, but if they don't and you're willing to make a three hour journey north on the Thruway on my schedule, I'll do my best to fit you in because I can probably knock it out without causing noticable havoc, but dinner is on you. While I have great reverence for these instruments, it seems like your bass may need drastic action to replace the Straplock whose head has broken off should they not work or you want to swap them out for something else.
The unit that turns to a certain point can probably be coaxed out with pliers, but the unit whose head has broken off might need to be drilled out, which is a job for steady hands but not impossible. In other words, do as much as you can at home but your compatriots here will tell you what to ask for at the luthier's shop. Good luck.
echo008
Intermediate Member
Username: echo008

Post Number: 165
Registered: 2-2003
Posted on Thursday, December 16, 2004 - 6:51 am:   Edit Post

I wanted to suggest you send an email/call Chris at the American Guitar museum
http://www.americanguitarmuseum.com/agmmain.htm
he is located in New Hyde Park on Long Island, I have never had him work on my Alembic (there was never a need, I would take mine to him in a second if I needed), but he has done other electronic installs/ setups repairs on my other basses as well as my Fiances guitars.
As well, I also think you would not do wrong in going to the Guitar boutique in NYC, Im seriously looking to try one of Jimmy's J basses.
- Tom
poor_nigel
Senior Member
Username: poor_nigel

Post Number: 459
Registered: 7-2003
Posted on Thursday, December 16, 2004 - 10:15 am:   Edit Post

Robert - Personally, I would jump on Shawn's offer. It would be worth the three hour drive just to check out his S-II graphite jewel in person. He may ever let you touch it - no way!!! There is certainly nothing to lose in that offer. You would even get to spend time with another crazed Alembic person. Hey, we gotta stick together, now.
rover
New
Username: rover

Post Number: 5
Registered: 2-2003
Posted on Thursday, December 16, 2004 - 4:33 pm:   Edit Post

All,

Thanks for easing my concerns about the electronics. I'm leaving the Selector Switch as is and if I can't get used to it, I'll follow Nigel's advice.

Your comments have convinced me the strap locks are more problematic and need TLC from skilled hands, definitely not mine. I've met Jimmy Coppola and had been referred once before to Chris at the Guitar Museum, so I'll give them a call and hope for the best since the bass can only be played without a strap.

As to Mr. Sheriff's kind offer to fill the role of KungFuSurgeon, I fear the dinner could cost more than a flight to Santa Rosa...though it would be tempting to play Smoke on the Water on a graphite neck with a pick at volume eleven.

Thanks to everyone for sharing both your knowledge and humor. When I move forward on a custom, I hope I can again look to your collective expertise.

Rob
rover
New
Username: rover

Post Number: 6
Registered: 2-2003
Posted on Thursday, December 16, 2004 - 4:35 pm:   Edit Post

All,

Thanks for easing my concerns about the electronics. I'm leaving the Selector Switch as is and if I can't get used to it, I'll follow Nigel's advice.

Your comments have convinced me the strap locks are more problematic and need TLC from skilled hands, definitely not mine. I've met Jimmy Coppola and had been referred once before to Chris at the Guitar Museum, so I'll give them a call and hope for the best since the bass can only be played without a strap.

As to Mr. Sheriff's kind offer to fill the role of KungFuSurgeon, I fear the dinner could cost more than a flight to Santa Rosa...though it would be tempting to play Smoke on the Water on a graphite neck with a pick at volume eleven.

Thanks to everyone for sharing both your knowledge and humor. When I move forward on a custom, I hope I can again look to your collective expertise.

Rob
echo008
Intermediate Member
Username: echo008

Post Number: 166
Registered: 2-2003
Posted on Thursday, December 16, 2004 - 6:02 pm:   Edit Post

Hi Rob,
Best of luck in getting it sorted out ... may it be quick and painless.
I for one would also like to know how it works out for you.
happy holidays
- Tom
rover
New
Username: rover

Post Number: 7
Registered: 2-2003
Posted on Thursday, December 16, 2004 - 7:35 pm:   Edit Post

Tom,

I'd be happy to keep you posted. Unfortunately, I doubt that I'll have the opportunity to resolve the issue before the holidays. Again, thanks to you, Nigel, and KFS for the education and the suggestions. Hope Santa treats all of you well.

Rob
kungfusheriff
Advanced Member
Username: kungfusheriff

Post Number: 229
Registered: 8-2003
Posted on Thursday, December 16, 2004 - 10:36 pm:   Edit Post

Rob,
Good choice...while I've never seen Jimmy's work in person I have perused his page (whew, too much alliteration) and found it impressive, and many exchanges of e-mail over this and that left me with the impression he's a cool cat.
But my spaghetti is better (grin).
Good luck, and please tell us how it goes. We're curious in dese 'ere parts, as you've come to learn.
Tom, I'm still mulling your suggestion of a temporary bass trade this summer--IF I find a shipping service we can trust, IF I get this job I'm angling for, IF I can use those drastically fattened paychecks to buy that '76 S1 some of us were discussing in Swap Shop so I can have a bass I'm used to for gigs...you know how it goes.
gbarchus
Member
Username: gbarchus

Post Number: 96
Registered: 6-2002
Posted on Friday, December 17, 2004 - 12:15 am:   Edit Post

Rob,

I was tempted to chime in earlier, but it seems you got a lot of good advice and offers of help. Have you tried putting a strap on the bass with the Dunlop straplocks? If they are not fastened in the bass, they should pull out. If they are tight, maybe there's nothing you need to do. I have 89AM031 and it took awhile to get use to the pick-up selector switch. I usually just leave it on both PUs or off. I have played it using the stereo cord through my F2B, power amp and two cabinets but usually use a tube head and one cabinet.

Gale
echo008
Intermediate Member
Username: echo008

Post Number: 167
Registered: 2-2003
Posted on Friday, December 17, 2004 - 6:26 am:   Edit Post

Rob, Again best of luck

kungfusheriff, Bass Trade? ... are you sure you have the right Tom? :-)


- Tom
rover
New
Username: rover

Post Number: 8
Registered: 2-2003
Posted on Friday, December 17, 2004 - 8:03 am:   Edit Post

Unfortunately, the strap locks are kaput, Gale, but I appreciate the input and plan to leave the Selector Switch alone, at least for now.

Thanks all. I'll post again when the solution is found.

Rob
poor_nigel
Senior Member
Username: poor_nigel

Post Number: 462
Registered: 7-2003
Posted on Friday, December 17, 2004 - 10:55 am:   Edit Post

Yo Tom, Shawn means me. Nothing is written in stone. But come summer, if all the stars are lined up just right, I am sure I am up to a trade basses for a while. That is such a great little bass you have. That S-I I picked up changed my mind about short-scale basses not having a true, proper bottom end to em. And to play around on a graphite neck is very, very appealing to me. When summer comes around . . .

By the way, I cleared my profile out because I was supposed to be working the huge hours now, but we cancelled the first release of our program, due to its being too weak (This was asked in a different thread). Joy!
echo008
Intermediate Member
Username: echo008

Post Number: 168
Registered: 2-2003
Posted on Friday, December 17, 2004 - 11:03 am:   Edit Post

poor nigel: Thanks for clarifying ...

- the other tom
palembic
Senior Member
Username: palembic

Post Number: 1829
Registered: 9-2002
Posted on Friday, December 17, 2004 - 11:09 am:   Edit Post

Tom-tom-tom ...if those toms keep on coming we'll have a drumsolo!!!!!!!!

PTBO
kungfusheriff
Advanced Member
Username: kungfusheriff

Post Number: 231
Registered: 8-2003
Posted on Saturday, December 18, 2004 - 12:03 am:   Edit Post

And if those Pauls keep coming out of the woodwork we'll have to think about a charter change! Name tags for everybody, and one Paul fits all!
Uniquely named, and thanks for once, Dad,
ShawnFuSheriff
richbass939
Junior
Username: richbass939

Post Number: 41
Registered: 11-2004
Posted on Saturday, December 18, 2004 - 5:41 am:   Edit Post

Nigel,
You mentioned above that short scale basses don't have a good bottom end. I'm not sure exactly what you mean, but my experience with short scales is that they tended to be boomy. Since the shorter string isn't as tight as a longer string to be at the same pitch a brightness is harder to achieve. The boominess was definitely there and pretty hard to get rid of. All I tried to compensate for it is to play a heavier string.
There's another thread about strings that I'm interested in. I haven't had enough time as an Alembic player to experiment with different strings. Now I'm really curious.
Rich
poor_nigel
Senior Member
Username: poor_nigel

Post Number: 466
Registered: 7-2003
Posted on Monday, December 20, 2004 - 12:27 pm:   Edit Post

Sorry Rich, work has been busy the last few daze! Most short scales I have played are lacking in a nice solid E, as you mentioned, a boomy, undefined sound. I have always used heavy gage strings, regardless of scale, so I am out of that loop on different gages. The short-scale S1 I picked up a while ago has a very defined E, and if anything is too bright. It has standard issue Alembic short-scales on it and sounds great - when I take some of the edge off it. Mark King would love the sound this little bass makes. I got it, as I kept hearing such good things said about the short and medium scale Alembics, and they were right! Happy hunting on your string quest.
richbass939
Junior
Username: richbass939

Post Number: 48
Registered: 11-2004
Posted on Monday, December 20, 2004 - 5:06 pm:   Edit Post

Thanks, Nigel. One thing I've learned since I've owned an Alembic is that you can't judge "basses" by what you've experienced with other brands. I always liked the feel of a short scale but I haven't owned one since I sold my Rick 3000 in 1978.
It was very interesting to hear that Stanley plays a short scale. Of course he isn't going to give up any sound quality for a shorter scale. He's been playing Alembic for 30+ years, so there's my answer.
A recent post said that, despite the fact that he is so big and has big hands, Stanley plays a short scale for "economy of motion". I'm sure it's true but have you ever heard him play his upright? They're usually somewhere in the 40" scale range and he is just as fast and clean as on his electric.
Rich
adriaan
Senior Member
Username: adriaan

Post Number: 439
Registered: 6-2002
Posted on Tuesday, December 21, 2004 - 1:26 am:   Edit Post

Rich,
By the sound of SC's upright - if memory serves me right after about 15 years - I guess he's using skinny strings. Not a sound I like, to be honest. But the strings might explain part of his speed on a 40" scale.
richbass939
Member
Username: richbass939

Post Number: 55
Registered: 11-2004
Posted on Wednesday, December 22, 2004 - 4:54 pm:   Edit Post

Adriaan,
I don't know how SC has his upright set up. I checked mine and the E looks like it is exactly the same 45 as my Epic. I measured the scale and it's 42 1/2". The first "fret" position is over 2 3/4" from the nut. I guess he prefers the short scale on electric but just deals with the looong scale on acoustic. He deals with it pretty well.
Rich
adriaan
Senior Member
Username: adriaan

Post Number: 441
Registered: 6-2002
Posted on Thursday, December 23, 2004 - 5:04 am:   Edit Post

Rich,
When you say about your upright, "the E looks like it is exactly the same 45 as my Epic", I suppose you mean the same 105?
His live sound 15 years ago didn't sound very upright-like to my ears (no oomph whatsoever). It was all zoom-zoom-zoom, not much tone, so he may have had a lot of compression on his signal - which would also have helped out as he was concentrating on speed.
They were showing a recording of a recent live concert on Dutch TV, and according to the screen caption he was playing Goodbye Porkpie Hat - well, I'm pretty sure that was not the piece hiding beneath the endless avalanche of riffs running off his Alembic, but who knows ... perhaps it was.

In case you hadn't noticed, I'm not a fan.
richbass939
Member
Username: richbass939

Post Number: 66
Registered: 11-2004
Posted on Saturday, December 25, 2004 - 9:45 am:   Edit Post

Adriaan,
What was I thinking? Thanks, I did mean 105.
My comment about SC was just noting that, as I recall, he can play as quickly on upright as on electric. The 40+" scale doesn't seem to slow him down. I found it surprising that he went short on electric.
Rich

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