| Author | Message | ||
| richbass939
Advanced Member Username: richbass939 Post Number: 299 Registered: 11-2004 |
My '95 Epic has a little buckle rash on it. I was just wondering if anyone has experience with fixing this kind of thing. It is through the finish and into the wood just a tiny bit. If I lightly sanded it and brushed on a few coats of the same type of polyester finish they use at the factory, what are my chances of its looking pretty good. I know it is never again going to look like it did when the elves handed it over. It isn't too bad looking and of course it is on the back. Any suggestions? Rich | ||
| lbpesq
Senior Member Username: lbpesq Post Number: 511 Registered: 7-2004 |
Wear drawstring pants. No belt, no buckle, no rash! Sorry, couldn't resist. (LOL) Bill, tgo | ||
| davehouck
Moderator Username: davehouck Post Number: 1938 Registered: 5-2002 |
An interesting question; hopefully someone will have some experienced suggestions. You might want to take a look at the books and supplies at the Stewart-MacDonald site. | ||
| byoung
Member Username: byoung Post Number: 88 Registered: 12-2004 |
You can get some crepe-soled shoes (white is always a popular color) to go with those sans-a-belt pants. Nice soft soles, so your feet won't hurt after an evening of playing. =P Brad | ||
| bassman10096
Senior Member Username: bassman10096 Post Number: 728 Registered: 7-2003 |
All wisecracks aside...No, really. I think the thing I'd be trying to determine is whether or how much poly lacquer would be needed to fill the indents. See what the books or an expert tells you. I've seen similar kinds of fix-it projects on (don't quoteme, but sounds like  Fretnot Guitar repair. Also, good links there. | ||
| bigbass
Member Username: bigbass Post Number: 61 Registered: 6-2002 |
Just so that doesn't happen to me.....I never wear anything when I play with any of my babes. | ||
| byoung
Member Username: byoung Post Number: 91 Registered: 12-2004 |
Back to the subject at hand: my experience is that sanding is what separates the men from the boys when it comes to any form of painting (well, that and prep work...). For instance, I love those satin neck finishes. According to this page: http://www.alembic.com/info/wayne_bass.html , Alembic uses 2000 grit (!) wet sandpaper to create that satin finish. So, basically, I'd suggest wet sanding (add a drop of soap to a cup of water-- this'll help prevent the removed finish from gumming up) with high grit sandpaper (at least 600). Try to keep "rinsing" the paper in the water (again, so it won't gum up). Then polish it with some form of polishing compound. Brad | ||
| bassman10096
Senior Member Username: bassman10096 Post Number: 729 Registered: 7-2003 |
If the finish is penetrated through to the wood, I don't think you want to wet sand with water. The water will soak into the wood and get under more of the finish (causing it to lift and making a bigger mess). I don't know if mineral spirits are compatible with the poly finish on your bass, but they work great for wet sanding, and dry faster than water, so they don't soak as far into things. I've been doing a lot of guitar finishing work lately, but I'm no expert. What it has taught me, though, is how many pitfalls there are. If I were you, I'd get some professional advice. Your bass is worth it. Bill Lester at Reranch.com would probably know what to tell you (or at least tell you what he doesn't know about your finish). You can Email him through the website. Believe me, I'm all for the intrepid, do it yourself, trial and accident approach - but NOT WITH YOUR ALEMBIC!! Bill | ||
| slapbass
Junior Username: slapbass Post Number: 25 Registered: 3-2005 |
I refinish a lot of basses and with just slight buckle rash to bad as long as it is scratches and not a worn spot like in the picture then do not sand it to the wood.  With just scratches fill them with the correct finish wet sand and polish. If it is a worn spot then you have a lot of work on your hands. well lets start with the wood. If the back of your epic like most is mahogany then after sanding you will need to fill the grain before refinishing to get the nice smooth look. Sand the bass with 320 grit sand paper I use all Mirka products (available at your local auto body paint supply) for sanding. Apply finish with spray gun for small touch ups the little refillable aerosol bottles work well. Build up the finish in stages apply one coat wait five hours apply another and keep going until the new finish is above the old. Now the worst part yet hang the bass up and DO NOT touch it for two weeks! After that painful time level sand and polish starting with 400 girt and work up to 1500 and polish using your favorite combination. Just my quick two cents Keep Thumpin' | ||
| bassman10096
Senior Member Username: bassman10096 Post Number: 730 Registered: 7-2003 |
The above seems like sound advice. Don't underestimate the need to allow the finish to cure for 2 weeks (really). | ||
| byoung
Member Username: byoung Post Number: 93 Registered: 12-2004 |
Bill, Sorry I wasn't more clear-- do not wet sand bare wood. Rich seemed to state that he'd already applied finish, and my suggestions were based on that. Brad | ||
| richbass939
Advanced Member Username: richbass939 Post Number: 302 Registered: 11-2004 |
Actually, I haven't done anything to it yet. I'm just looking at it trying to figure out if I want to take on the project. It really doesn't look all that bad. The two week wait wouldn't be a problem. I always have my Epic 5 waiting to be played. Rich | ||
| bassman10096
Senior Member Username: bassman10096 Post Number: 731 Registered: 7-2003 |
Brad: Sorry I pounced. I assumed Rich might actually do the bad thing. The vision of getting water under the finish of an Alembic was just tooooo horrible to describe...Sorry. Rich: I hope we haven't scared you off from this project. If you use the right procedure and materials, it's not a big job. The only time-consuming part (aside from curing time) should be waiting between finish coats for the newly finished area to build up higher than the old finish around it. As the new finish dries, it will thin down. You want there to be enough thickness after full drying that you can sand and polish it down flush with the original finish around it. That way, you'll be left with a flat, uniformly reflective surface. Bill | ||
| slapbass
Junior Username: slapbass Post Number: 26 Registered: 3-2005 |
Rich Do you have any pictures of the scratches? If they are narrow and deep Get the appropriate finish and use a tooth pick and lay the finish in the crack a little at a time. Let cure and keep building up. If the scratches are wider use a paper matchstick these work great with polyester base finishes. Just do not build the finish up to high or during sanding you could sand through the good finish (don't ask how I have experienced this) if the finish does start to get thin spray a couple of coats over the area and start again. Keep Thumpin' Dale | ||
| bassplayer2106
Junior Username: bassplayer2106 Post Number: 21 Registered: 5-2005 |
Hi I used nail varnish on an old Jaydee bass that I had a few years ago.It had a small dent in the back.I just built up the finish a bit at a time until the area I had filled was slightly raised aboved the rest of the instrument.I the taped of the area around the mark and flattened it down with wet and dry paper and a little washing up liquid.I then polished the area with car finish restorer it looked fine afterwards,you had to look really closely to see what I had done.It's important to take your time though. | ||
| richbass939
Advanced Member Username: richbass939 Post Number: 311 Registered: 11-2004 |
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| richbass939
Advanced Member Username: richbass939 Post Number: 312 Registered: 11-2004 |
Sorry it took me so long to get around to taking and posting pictures. I appreciate everybody's attention and suggestions on this matter. On closer inspection of the rash I don't think it is into the wood at all. I think the whiter parts of the scratches are just where the finish is flaky. Rich |
