| Author | Message | ||
| son_of_magni
New Username: son_of_magni Post Number: 8 Registered: 1-2004 |
Ok, I have my friggin' awesome MK 6-string fretless. I have a few thoughts that lead to some questions. It would be really nice to bi-amp this thing. I have so many heads and speakers it's just the obvious thing to do. So I'm just looking for feedback from anyone that has tried these things out: Wire for stereo output Add pickup phase reversal switch Also what head would you recommend with plenty of power with a nice tube sound? And a couple questions about the standard electronics. I haven't even taken the backplate off yet so maybe these are stupid questions. It seems like when I turn the pan control clockwise it turns down the neck pickup, anti-clockwise turns down the bridge pickup. Seems backwards to me (not complaining though). Next, when the Q controls are turned off (via the switch) they still have some effect. Interesting that my Pedulla does the same thing, but why? - Karl | ||
| bob
Intermediate Member Username: bob Post Number: 112 Registered: 11-2002 |
Karl, The Q switch only controls the resonant peak you get at the filter frequency. Turning the switch "off" means you don't get a boost where the filter starts to roll off the highs, but the filter is still in place and active (always). To eliminate the filter effect as much as possible, you also need to rotate the filter frequency knob fully clockwise (sometimes referred to here as the "wide open" position). In this position, the filter will have no effect on frequencies below 6 kHz, and you'll essentially hear everything. Your pan control sounds backwards to me, but I'll defer on that and the rest of your questions to others with more experience. -Bob | ||
| valvil
Moderator Username: valvil Post Number: 302 Registered: 7-2002 |
Hello Karl, Congratulations on your new Alembic; I'll take a not-so-wild guess and say it's likely a walnut beauty with a cone headstock and omega cutout. You will receive requests for pictures from our members very soon I believe...  In regards to bi-amping, personally I think the easiest way (but also my favorite) is to use a crossover ( I use the one on the F1X). Much less complicated ( and likely less expensive) than modifiyng your Alembic. Even with my series I, which is capable of stereo operation, I go mono into the F1x and split the signal with the crossover; I prefer this solution because I would rather split the frequencies than the pickups. Going the other way (splitting pickups) you'd also need either a stereo preamp or 2 preamps. Your panpot seems to be operating backwards indeed. It can be fixed simply by reversing the pickup leads, which are clip-on, so no soldering is required. Let me know if you need help with that. Valentino | ||
| bigredbass
Advanced Member Username: bigredbass Post Number: 233 Registered: 9-2002 |
son: -stereo output... well it's actually an output for each pickup. I could see where this could sound great standing in front of it (with a huge wallet!), but it's one of those things that doesn't translate through the PA unless you're traveling with Showco or Clair Brothers. A real quick way for stereo as most people think of it is the way steel players do it: Plug into a chorus, etc. with left and right outs into two amps (RedHeads, etc.) or a rack L/R effect into the two channels of a power amp running identical cabinets L and R. Again, though, it sounds great to you, but really doesn't go through the typical PA most of us see on club gigs. -phase reversal switch ...believe me, with the filters, you can get real close to that quack-quack sound of out of phase pickups you get on a bass. Spend your money on something else if it were me. -biamping ...do any of these heads you have have crossover with the accompanying jacks for the low and high passes? Most mono heads will drive one pass or the other, and you need a second amp for the other pass. There have been some stereo heads that had both amps for biamping: some of the BIG Trace Elliots, GKs, Ashdowns, but more likely you're gonna need a second amp and some fifteens or eighteens to set under your 10s or 12s. Remember you need about twice to four times the power for the lows to match the highs. -high power tube head with great tone/big juice? ...of course, Dino is an AMPEG clinician and St. Louis Music has done a good job with the 'reborn' Ampeg, so he could clue you in on their many variations on the SVT. ALEMBIC's F-One-X preamp with ANY good stereo power amp would biamp and give terrific TUBE TONE to die for. It would also be hard to go wrong with Mesa's BASS 400 PLUS. -backwards pan? ...unscrew the back plate. You'll see two little blue boxes. CAREFULLY unclip the connectors on top of each and re-plug them opposite to the way you found them. This will reverse the pan to front-to-back, instead of back-to-front. J o e y | ||
| poor_nigel
Junior Username: poor_nigel Post Number: 17 Registered: 7-2003 |
What double post? I don't see a double post???! (Message edited by poor_nigel on January 12, 2004) | ||
| poor_nigel
Junior Username: poor_nigel Post Number: 18 Registered: 7-2003 |
I doubt this will help, but I have time to kill, so . . . For serious gigs, I use an Eden Navigator, which has either stereo output or bi-amed, plus does tube or diode preamp. I generally use the DI outs, stereo, into a graphic equalizer, into a stereo three-way Rane, into BGW's for each range. If outdoors, I use two racks of BGW;s, 4-18's in folder horns, 4-12's and 4-2" drivers adapted to Altec 5000B sectorial horns. Got roadies? Indoors switch the 18's with any number of 15's, and however many 10's and 2" drivers on JBL 2395 slant plates are needed. I use all JBL and Gauss speakers, so they are extremely efficient, and never need more that 500 Watts RMS for the lows, etc., even if I am going for the old Greatful Dead Wall'O'Sound look - I have a truckload of 15's . . . Honestly, I really like just playing out of old tube amps into 15's. Big, little, simple or complex, as long it is fun, go for it. Cool, killed enough time to get back to work. Later. Note: I do not run stereo from my bass/RS-5 to my Eden. I only run stereo anything, because my power amps are stereo . . . I have thought about getting another Navigator or an FX-1 and running stereo, but I really do not see the advantage. Hey, try it and let me know. Side notes: B strings go down to 30Hz, I believe. Got 18's? I'm late for work, again . . . . | ||
| mint_bass
Junior Username: mint_bass Post Number: 15 Registered: 1-2004 |
i cant really help whith your questions but just thought id say hello and congratulations on the new bass. a 6 fretless that must be hard to play my friend has one and loves it though im sure it will be buetiful so well done talk to you soon | ||
| dean_m
Advanced Member Username: dean_m Post Number: 252 Registered: 7-2002 |
Hey Karl, Congrats on the new bass!!! So did you get any sleep this weekend???? I wouldn't be a proper Paul if I didn't stomp my beer mug on the table and request PIX PIX PIX. BTW-My wife Rachel has me on a carb diet so Ive got to watch my beer intake now and I refuse to drink "light" beer. There's no carbs in vodka thought is there?!?!? As far as Ampeg gear goes, I'll have some info on new stuff when I get back from the NAMM show next week. I'll be at the Ampeg booth every day if any of you are planning on being there. Peace, Dino | ||
| gbarchus
Junior Username: gbarchus Post Number: 32 Registered: 6-2002 |
I too like the sound of tubes with 15" speakers. With "stereo" out, I have used an F2B preamp with a stereo Marshall tube power amp. That way I can put each pick-up through a separate channel and speaker. On stage it sounds great. It may not have the right balance off the stage, so I do rely on a soundman to get it right from the mono out of the F2B. Even though the Marshall has only 100 watts per channel, I can keep up with three electric guitars! There's a picture on another page. http://alembic.com/club/messages/411/1941.html?1033976607 | ||
| bigredbass
Advanced Member Username: bigredbass Post Number: 238 Registered: 9-2002 |
Gale: Yes m'am! I often think that like Coke in the little bottles or a Hershey bar, single cabs with JBL 15s are a classic sonic recipe that's hard to improve upon. There's a LOT to be said for the elegance of simplicity. Thanks for reminding me. J o e y | ||
| son_of_magni
New Username: son_of_magni Post Number: 10 Registered: 1-2004 |
Well, that's a lot to think about. I had forgotten that I had asked this question and started to read this interesting thread before I realized I had started it :-P... Anyways, I was looking at a Hartke twin amp with tube front ends, I think 350 watts a side. Anyone ever seen those? I don't know how to make the pics appear here but here's some links. I'll post a link with all my basses when I make a place to spread them out ;-) http://www.sonofthor.com/images/Alembic1a.gif http://www.sonofthor.com/images/Alembic2a.gif http://www.sonofthor.com/images/Alembic3a.gif If you want higher res, take the "a" off the filename... | ||
| angelboy
Junior Username: angelboy Post Number: 11 Registered: 1-2004 |
I use a Hartke 3500 and a 4x10 XL series. The head is great as it has Tube and Trans controls, compression, high + Lo controls + a 12 band EQ. (I think it's a 12!)I'm not sure if it's this that you're talking about? It's a really punchy system. I've yet to plug my alembic into it.........it's a long story! | ||
| son_of_magni
Junior Username: son_of_magni Post Number: 13 Registered: 1-2004 |
Actually it's the Hartke Model 7000. I just found one on ebay and grabbed it for $650. - Karl | ||
| willie
New Username: willie Post Number: 6 Registered: 11-2003 |
son of magni i used to have a hartke 7000 amp, also had 6 XL series cabinets. SOLD EM ALL. found eden cabinets and they smoke the hartkes which have no bottom end. i use an alembic f1x with crown power base 3 amps. they can be operated in bridge or parallel mono if you run full range cabinets or in stereo if you use the cross over outputs of the preamp. the crossover outputs with the amp in stereo will give you the best clearest sound even at very high sound pressure levels. you gotta try it talk about a BIG sound. congrats on the bass and lets see pictures | ||
| son_of_magni
Junior Username: son_of_magni Post Number: 14 Registered: 1-2004 |
I tried a Hartke 350 in a music store and liked the sound. The 7000 is basically two of those in one box with the addition of the crossover. I'm planning to run the highs into my SWR Goliath II (4 10's and a horn) and the lows into my home made 2x15. Really should have a 1x18 though... - Karl | ||
| xlrogue6
Junior Username: xlrogue6 Post Number: 43 Registered: 8-2002 |
If you're using a Hartke, I highly recommend upgrading the passive components in the tube preamp--better caps and resistors really improve the warmth, clarity, and definition. I've done a couple of these lately and they kinda made me nostalgic for my old 7000, possibly because it accomplished in 2 rack spaces what I'm now doing in 4. Of course, my new rig sounds better, but I have to wonder if anyone but me (or one of you guys!) could tell the difference. | ||
| son_of_magni
Junior Username: son_of_magni Post Number: 15 Registered: 1-2004 |
Well Rogue, since my stereo is two 150 watt mono blocks into Ohm F's, with an AVA Dynakit front end (not to mention the Ah Tjoeb CD player), I guess I better be able to hear the difference :-) What manufacturer and type of R's and C's would you recommend? | ||
| xlrogue6
Junior Username: xlrogue6 Post Number: 44 Registered: 8-2002 |
Mallory 150's(or any other high quality tubular) for the non-electrolytic caps, since clearances are tight on the board. Orange drops will fit in some locations if you're partial to them. For resistors, I like 1/2 watt NTE 2% metal films, although some would argue for carbon comp in the signal path. Also bear in mind that the RC network between the output of IC101A and the second half of the 12AX7 is a Fender(or F1X/F2B, if you prefer) tone stack with fixed resistors instead of pots, so if you want to tweak the tone of the tube pre you can play with part values here. Kent |
