| Author | Message | ||
| the_8_string_king
Advanced Member Username: the_8_string_king Post Number: 270 Registered: 9-2005 |
Hi gang! I'm just taking advantage of the FTC medium to post my Coco Bolo request details/specification here for mutual reference. There actually isn't anything new here, at this point. I'm just going to copy the previous info I'd E-mailed Valentino on 12/12. (Excerpt copy of E-mail sent to Valentino on 12/12) In the e-mail on 12/1/6, I gave a list of 10 specific examples to use as guidelines for what I’m looking for. Now, I’ve amended and shortened the list to 5 examples. I went over the various threads, and found 5 examples that’ll give you a perfect idea of what I want. Here they are: my VERY FAVORITE –EVER- Alembic coco bolo sample can be seen in the FTC thread “Matt’s Coco Bolo Stanley Clarke”, posts 2059 & 2147 (and others) show this awesome example of what I’d like with respects to figuring, “concentric-ness” (the little swirl on the lower body edge), and color, having lines in the middle (to disguise a BTC) and awesome swirls and figuring. This example is an unsurpassed example of what I’d like. I’d flip if you could get me something like this. A very close second is found if you open the (FTC) “archive through December 31, 2003”, and look at “John’s Coco Bolo Skylark” –and this example is actually BTC’d. I love this example, and it stands second only to the previous mention/example. My third favorite example of coco bolo on an Alembic bass is also on this same page: see the FRONT of “Barry’s Custom Coco Bolo Bass”…I love the color/range of color, I love the figuring, and most especially, I LOVE the little concentric pattern on the lower body edge, by the electronics… IT’S SO AWESOME!!! I REALLY would LOVE to have something like this on my bass!!! Finally, tied for 4 and 5, are Rick’s Dragon Wing and Graham’s Rogue –both of which are on the main/current FTC page. I love the figuring and color/color range on both these basses, and both look like they have liney figuring in the center to disguise the BTC; and they each have a little “concentric-ness”… Graham’s bass has it below the electronics (it’s not quite as awesome as Barry’s) and Rick has a little of it in the smaller horn. By the way, I believe I rated “Thunder and Lightning” as my favorite example. I would now revise that and place it after the 5 examples I just described. These 5 examples should give you a pretty clear idea of what I’d like. I’m figuring that since I’m getting coco on front and rear, I hopefully should be able to get some concentric patterns somewhere! (That completes the excerpt/E-mail) I've VERY THOROUGHLY gone through most if not all of the FTC and showcase threads looking for references of finished Coco Bolo Alembics... and I stand behind these 5 examples as being perfect examples of what I'm looking for, with respects to figuring, concentrics, and colors. Hopefully this will be sufficient to help to select/narrow down wood choices! I'm not too picky... I'll defer to your experience/recommendations... this is just to give you the clearest idea of what I'm looking for. I'd be absolutely ecstatic to get Coco Bolo like any of these 5 fabulous Alembics -especially the first 2... but they're ALL AWESOME! Just one more time, I want to emphasize the single most important detail is to have the figuring disguise the BTC (on both the front and the back) as much as possible... to make sure the center line isn't noticable... to make sure there isn't side-to-side figuring that doesn't line up as it crosses the center line. This is why having "liney" figuring at least in the middle seems like the way to go. Okay, I won't say it again!!! Just had to say it one more time, since it's the most important thing! Thanks again for building the best bass(es) in the world! (P.S. Graham, please forgive me for referring to your most awesome and inspiring Rogue as "less awesome" than Barry's... it was just in the context of describing MY personal subjective preferences AND focusing on THAT specific detail... the "concentricity" detail of that bass. Your Rogue is in fact one of my top 5 Alembic Coco Bolo basses ever!) (Message edited by the 8 string king on December 27, 2006) | ||
| jacko
Senior Member Username: jacko Post Number: 981 Registered: 10-2002 |
Hey Mark. I'm honoured that you've put my rogue up there alongside Rick and Barry's examples. Ricks DW is incredible and Barry's was one of the examples I used when I spoke to Mica about patterns. You can rest assured that she'll choose something stunning for you. Graeme | ||
| the_8_string_king
Advanced Member Username: the_8_string_king Post Number: 330 Registered: 9-2005 |
I'm sure she will!!! And I can't wait. Since "Elana" -that's her name, since she's a replacement for an Elan- will have Coco Bolo BTC'd on both front and back, they'll have plenty of surface area to have awesome figuring in! I'm really hoping they come up with something like the front/top(s) of the 1st two basses I listed. The Coco Bolo Stanley Clarke, and the awesome Coco Bolo Skylark blow me away. I like the figuring on the Stanley Clarke a little better, but the BTC and the features of the figuring on the Skylark... it just doesn't get any better (in my eyes)!!! | ||
| the_8_string_king
Advanced Member Username: the_8_string_king Post Number: 400 Registered: 9-2005 |
Another example of figuring I really like -specifically "concentric-ness" is "Ken's 90's 5-String Coco Bolo Distillate" in the "Showcase" section. Looking at the left side of the picture, I really love the concentric patterns on the horn, and how the concentric circles on either side of the "waist" "drop off" and then pick back up on the other side. I just can't wait to see what'chu folks come up with for me! I know it'll be awesome! | ||
| the_8_string_king
Senior Member Username: the_8_string_king Post Number: 466 Registered: 9-2005 |
I'm dying to see what Bob's come up with! (But, I'm sure you know that, so PLEASE, take your time, and post some pictures ONLY when your busy schedule allows!) | ||
| mica
Moderator Username: mica Post Number: 4311 Registered: 6-2000 |
Bob is gearing up for a large run of bodies. There are little stacks of wood on every available table in the shop, so in a few days, you'll hopefully see what's been cooking. | ||
| georgie_boy
Intermediate Member Username: georgie_boy Post Number: 198 Registered: 8-2005 |
hey Graeme I told you that you had one of the best looking basses on the planet (apart from mine that is!) She is truly beautiful, and you should be very proud of her G | ||
| the_8_string_king
Senior Member Username: the_8_string_king Post Number: 489 Registered: 9-2005 |
While browsing thru the thread for the awesome March Custom of the Month, I discovered the link to "A Fitting Tribute"... The BACK is a PERFECT example of what I DON'T WANT/LIKE... specifically how there is an obvious line in the middle, and how the figuring (really the coloring of the figuring) obviously and abruptly is different (changes -from light to dark) as it crosses the center line. Disclaimers: I'm sure y'all already get this -but when I came across this perfect example of what I DON'T LIKE, paranoid rascal that I am, I felt obliged to share it as a reference; that said, it's a gorgeous instrument... it just goes against my personal aesthetic preferences! | ||
| mica
Moderator Username: mica Post Number: 4431 Registered: 6-2000 |
Because of the carved top, all Tributes look less symmetrical. Here is a piece that looks like it will suit your tastes:  This is just roughly chalked in, slightly oversized. We'd also angle it slightly to get the central lines closer to parallel. | ||
| the_8_string_king
Senior Member Username: the_8_string_king Post Number: 501 Registered: 9-2005 |
THANKS A BUNCH, MICA, IT LOOKS AWESOME!!! Uhm... is that piece the back, or the front flipped over? It looks like there's a horn there, so I'm guessing it's one or the other. It looks beautiful, and it looks like I'll probably have some nice concentrics near the controls -as well as the lines I requested in the middle, to disguise the BTC. Have y'all decided if I'm going to have the front and back made from the same board or not? Just curious, as stated before, I leave this decision in your capable hands. Thanks again for this picture, I've really been "jone-zing" to see this!!! | ||
| mica
Moderator Username: mica Post Number: 4437 Registered: 6-2000 |
This is a piece of lumber. I traced the larger body half so you could see if you liked the piece as much as we thought you might. I'll ask Bob to get the board resawn so you can view the bookmatches. I think this will be thick enough to get both the top and back cut, but I'll let you know after it goes through the bandsaw. | ||
| 5stringho
Intermediate Member Username: 5stringho Post Number: 111 Registered: 11-2006 |
Mark, I can't wait to see the bookmatch. Looks like itz gonna B AWESOME! Drool, slurp, drooooollll....... The Ho.... | ||
| the_8_string_king
Senior Member Username: the_8_string_king Post Number: 503 Registered: 9-2005 |
Thanks, Ho! Mica, the more I look at this, the more I'm sold on this piece of wood! However, as I look at it, I'm trying to envision what portions of it would look best being cut out for the top/back. The tentative rough outline you traced looks pretty good. It looks like it would be easy for you to "line up" the lines in the center to disguise the BTC. But I think it might look even better (not sure) if the outline were moved up to the top (in addition to being slightly angled) so I could get more/all/most of that really cool big "eye" on my top -and also more concentrics on the outside. For clarification, I'm referring to the concentric-ish large figure more or less in the dead center of the board in the picture. To the right are two adjacent "little eyes" I love, and also a single "eye" in the horn. I can't have it all, so I think we'll probably have to sacrifice the little eye in the horn when we angle it. I think I'd like it if the outline (of the horn) were lifted up to the upper (in the picture) edge of the board, and also the rest of the outline. An easier way of describing this idea might be to imagine you just shaved off an inch or two off the lower edge of the board, and lifted/angled the horn up a bit. As I look at that board, I see 3 sections. As you go left to right (or right to left) there is a "really cool section" in the middle, that has the big "eye" in the center, and the smaller "eyes" to the right, and the "eye" in the horn. Above and below this "really cool section" are two "mainly liney" areas. Now I think I'd like to get a little more (maybe as much as possible -without sacrificing the disguised BTC objective) of this "really cool area" on my top/back. And again, this looks like it would also get me a little more concentric figuring by where the electronics would be (and on the mirror side). I'd like to see a trace-line outline for what I've described, at your convenience. I tried to make a little outline-thing out of paper, but it was half-assed. Alternatively, another thing that intrigues me would be to FLIP the outline, that is, to imagine the UPPER edge of the board (in the picture) being the center line/line of symettry. I like the "pinch/pinching" that's around the date "4/10/07" that you have chalked in on the board... it looks neat. The only concern would be if that figuring wouldn't line up right... BUT it looks like the fingerboard and or truss rod plate and/or pickups would be there, so it wouldn't be an issue -at least for the top. That way, you could get most of the "really cool area" in the middle on my top, and what you have as the outer edge would become the center, and what you have as the center would be the outer edge... and it looks like it would be full of concentrics!!! The lines on the top seem more parallel to begin with. So in summary: (1) what you've come up with is great; however, I think I might prefer (2) shaving an inch or two off the lower inch of the board and pushing the outline up (and slightly angling the horn up a little) OR (3) FLIPPING the outline so that the UPPER edge of the board is the center instead of the lower. At your convenience, if you could provide pictures with these outlines traced, I could probably tell you right away which I like best. Another thought is -assuming the board is thick enough to do front and back- do it one way on the front, and the other way on the back. I'm sorta thinking that the last option -(3)- looks like it might be the coolest -for the top. It seems like that option might get the biggest amount of the "really cool area" on my top. I DO wanna make sure I get the full 1/4th of an inch thickness of Coco Bolo on each side!!! Thanks again, Mica, I'm really excited, and this makes me feel better, what with the problem on my other bass and all!!! | ||
| mica
Moderator Username: mica Post Number: 4441 Registered: 6-2000 |
If I use the top side of the image as the center line, there is a disinctive "pinch" in the grain that will not conform to your specification for straight grain at the center. We will be slicing and sanding this chunk in the next few days, so I'll post the bookmatches and some outlines for you when it's ready. | ||
| the_8_string_king
Senior Member Username: the_8_string_king Post Number: 508 Registered: 9-2005 |
Thanks Mica, I'll look forward to seeing it! First of all, it's a great looking board, and I'm sure whatever we come up with will look great. So I'm happy, excited, optimistic, and worry-free! Now what you think is the biggest part of the equation, and I'll defer to what you think is the best way to achieve my objective(s). At this point, as I've had more time to look and contemplate, this is what I think I'd like to do -subject to your approval. (I definitely want the top and back to be the full quarter inch standard laminate thickness... ASSUMING this board is thick enough to yield that amount so that I can have the front/top & back made from this [same] board... what I'm thinking I'd like to do is: ) FOR THE FRONT/TOP, I think I'd like to "flip" the outline and use the upper edge of the board for the center line... IF/ASSUMING the "pinch" area wouldn't conflict with my objective -due to THAT WOOD being cut out by the neck pickup and/or truss rod plate. It looks to me like that is roughly where the neck pickup and/or truss rod plate would go... and other than that "pinch" area, the rest of the figuing is liney -and actually looks straighter than the lines on the other side. So it looks like there wouldn't be an issue with this conflicting with my wanting the figuring in the center to be liney to disguise the BTC... but it depend on whether the pickup and/or truss rod plate would eliminate this concern or not. FOR THE BACK, I think I'd like to use the outline you have above, but slightly modified, by pushing the outline up to the upper edge of the board (to include more of the middle "super cool area" in the top), and also specifically angling/lifting up the horn part of the outline -to make the lines more parallel, as you suggested. I'd like to get more of the middle "super cool" area into the top and back... the liney parts of the figuring should be mainly to (A) disguise/conceal the BTC on the front and back, and (B) to give me the desired concentric figuring on the edges. Thanks again, look forward to seeing the wood when cut, and hearing your thoughts. If it turns out not to be thick enough to yield 1/4 thickness for the top and back, I'll of course want to see another board for the other side (whichever side that would be). But hopefully this board will be thick enough to yield a quarter inch of Coco Bolo on both sides!  Interesting... I just stumbled onto how to make the smiley face!!! |
