Author |
Message |
fdeeptone
Junior Username: fdeeptone
Post Number: 25 Registered: 3-2009
| Posted on Sunday, May 09, 2010 - 10:49 am: | |
HI all, I read through the forums under refinishing and most everyone directs the job to Alembic but in my case i just cant afford to do this.Our drummer owns his own refinishing business and has offered to strip the bass and refinish. I am not sure what kind of finish should be used on the bare wood once its stripped and sanded. I beleive my spoiler has the koa wings. Should it be oiled first. or varnished or just clearcoated? I trust hippie (our drummer to do the work but want to make sure the correct finishes are applied. Any help? Here is a link to some pics of the spoiler as you can see it is in dire need of a refinish. http://cid-065b7782ed48fdec.skydrive.live.com/browse.aspx/instruments Thanks, Mark |
dfung60
Senior Member Username: dfung60
Post Number: 412 Registered: 5-2002
| Posted on Sunday, May 09, 2010 - 2:00 pm: | |
Your buddy is probably the best guide on this! When it was being built, the pre-treatment for premium wood like this is pretty mimimal but the preparation is going to be exacting. In your case, you strip all the hardware, strip the existing finish, sand the body to remove all the damage. No oil would be used unless you want to end up with a bare oil finish instead of the regular gloss varnish. Your buddy can make a call as to whether a colored filler is desirable on the grain, but I don't think this was done on your original koa. The grain pattern of the mahogany back of a Les Paul is often enhanced using a darker grain filler before the varnish. The entire face of the fingerboard will need to be fully masked. After everything is immaculately prepped, it's just a lot of spray coats of polyester or polyurethane varnish and a lot of time. The only tricky part of a guitar refinish is that they will be spraying all sides of the instrument. There are a lot of curves and tricky areas (particularly around the neck joint on a through-body instrument). This is a lot of work both for spraying and sanding afterwards, but shouldn't pose any big deal to a refinishing pro. Good luck! David Fung |
fdeeptone
Junior Username: fdeeptone
Post Number: 26 Registered: 3-2009
| Posted on Sunday, May 09, 2010 - 6:42 pm: | |
David, Thanks for the input,I know hip hasnt done a guitar before but has refinished alot of beautifuL antiques, Thanjs for being so thorough with your reply! Mark |
terryc
Senior Member Username: terryc
Post Number: 1182 Registered: 11-2004
| Posted on Monday, May 10, 2010 - 2:27 am: | |
If you friend has done antiques then this should be a breeze. I have restored old furniture myself using the traditional french polish method(taught to me by ex father in law). Prep is 90% of the finish. One word of warning..the Alembic logo does not remove easily, it has pins on the casting which are securely glued into the head stock.If you try to remove it it will bend or snap, you can get a new one from Alembic(quote serial number of bass) or you could mask it over prior to spraying. |
fc_spoiler
Senior Member Username: fc_spoiler
Post Number: 1113 Registered: 5-2006
| Posted on Monday, May 10, 2010 - 4:53 am: | |
Here's a usefull topic for the removal of the logo: Click here If you break it, you'll have to send the bass to Alembic for a replacement, they will not send you one ;-) If you're carefull you'll be fine, I always remove them when I clean up my basses. |
terryc
Senior Member Username: terryc
Post Number: 1184 Registered: 11-2004
| Posted on Monday, May 10, 2010 - 5:14 am: | |
fc spoiler..yep, I stand corrected, the bass would have to back to Alembic. Personally I would just carefully mask the logo. |
fdeeptone
Junior Username: fdeeptone
Post Number: 27 Registered: 3-2009
| Posted on Monday, May 10, 2010 - 6:09 am: | |
not to change the subject but I have ran into another problem, maybe a little input on this? I've noticed for some time the neck pickup is barely half the volume of the bridge pickup. I adjusted the height first on the neck to bring it closer to the strings then I adjusted the trimpot taking the bridge all the way down and the neck all the way up. Well the bridge is still twice as aloud. This is also just checking the bridge and the neck separetly, then checking them both together. I then switched the connections inside the bass and the neck is louder then the bridge. Does this mean that the pickup itself is hosed? Any suggestions would be appreciated. I am guessing im only getting half of what this bass is possible of. Thanks, for all your input. Mark |
adriaan
Moderator Username: adriaan
Post Number: 2475 Registered: 6-2002
| Posted on Monday, May 10, 2010 - 6:37 am: | |
Since the problem switches to the other pickup when you swap the leads, the pickups are quite probably fine, and the problem is likely to be somewhere in the electronics - might be the wiring, the soldering, or some component. |
fdeeptone
Junior Username: fdeeptone
Post Number: 28 Registered: 3-2009
| Posted on Monday, May 10, 2010 - 7:11 am: | |
well thats a relief! now determining what would cause the output problem. maybe the module that the oickups connect to? Anyone know any tests i can run from here? Thanks, Mark |
fc_spoiler
Senior Member Username: fc_spoiler
Post Number: 1114 Registered: 5-2006
| Posted on Monday, May 10, 2010 - 7:20 am: | |
Have you seen this?: Click here Your Spoiler should have 2 trimpots inside to control the volume for each pickup. |
fdeeptone
Junior Username: fdeeptone
Post Number: 29 Registered: 3-2009
| Posted on Monday, May 10, 2010 - 7:22 am: | |
yes i tried that already. I turned the bridge down all the way and the neck up all the way and the bridge was still louder. I also switched the connections and the neck got louder. adriaan pointed out that proves the pickup is ok. |
fdeeptone
Junior Username: fdeeptone
Post Number: 30 Registered: 3-2009
| Posted on Monday, May 10, 2010 - 7:51 am: | |
im thinking maybe a ground? The bass is buzzing thru my amp and when i touch the guitar cable it stops.I checked the cable and amp with another bass and no problem. |
mario_farufyno
Senior Member Username: mario_farufyno
Post Number: 442 Registered: 9-2008
| Posted on Monday, May 10, 2010 - 9:03 am: | |
grounding issue for sure |
fdeeptone
Junior Username: fdeeptone
Post Number: 31 Registered: 3-2009
| Posted on Monday, May 10, 2010 - 10:06 am: | |
i noticed the controls are loose inside the cavity and my switches are somewhat loose. not sure if this would cause a ground issue or not but ill tighten them all up and see;) |
adriaan
Moderator Username: adriaan
Post Number: 2476 Registered: 6-2002
| Posted on Monday, May 10, 2010 - 1:25 pm: | |
Yes, on an Alembic the grounding is not the usual wire going to the bridge, but the pots touching the shielding paint. Tightening the controls and switches would definitely help with the grounding, would be amazing if it also solved the other problem. |
fdeeptone
Junior Username: fdeeptone
Post Number: 32 Registered: 3-2009
| Posted on Monday, May 10, 2010 - 4:48 pm: | |
Does anyone know what size allen is used to remove the knobs or even if its an allen head, I cant tell even with my glasses on haha,I tried the samllest allen I had and no go. maybe a star? Sounds stupid but I just can't see it! I would understand if no one wanted to reply this idiotic question! And thanks again for all the input. I just want to get this spoiler working right:P mark |
mica
Moderator Username: mica
Post Number: 6740 Registered: 6-2000
| Posted on Monday, May 10, 2010 - 4:55 pm: | |
Yup, you need hex drivers. 1/16" for the hat knobs and a .050" for the pickup selector knob. Don't forget there are 2 screws on each one! For a complete list of tools see: adjustment tool sizes. |
fdeeptone
Junior Username: fdeeptone
Post Number: 33 Registered: 3-2009
| Posted on Monday, May 10, 2010 - 5:36 pm: | |
mica you are too awesome,thank you and thanks to everyone, ill let you know if the tightening solves the weak pickup problem. mark |
fdeeptone
Junior Username: fdeeptone
Post Number: 34 Registered: 3-2009
| Posted on Tuesday, May 11, 2010 - 8:19 am: | |
Well i tightened everthing up and still have a buzz coming from the spoiler. If I touch the guitar cable it stops. I tested the cable its fine. One of the pickup connectors is way louder then the other, although when you switch the connectors the other pickup becomes the loud one. when you removed one of the connectors it pops loudly where as the other connection doesnt do this. If I hook up one connector at a time they both still buzz. The bass is playing but a very loud buzz in the background. by adjusting the trimpots the buzz becomes very loud and if I crank the low pass filter extremely loud. you can here the filter working but the buzzing and the one pu being much louder then the other is the issue here.The only way to even get them close in level effects overall output. I would have to turn my volume on my 450 watt amp to 3/4's and that would not cut through anything. as I stated all is properly tightened now. Any suggestions as to if this is a componant problem? It acts like ground if you ask me but everthing is tight now. it is unusual that one of the copper connectors pops when you remove it and the other doesnt. Any help wpould be appreciated. Thanks Mark |
fdeeptone
Junior Username: fdeeptone
Post Number: 36 Registered: 3-2009
| Posted on Wednesday, May 26, 2010 - 8:19 am: | |
Well I am still dealing with this issue, i pulled the electronics and took them to friend for inspection that owns his own electronics repair. he cleaned everything, inspected all the sodering tested the componants and all was well. I went home installed the electronics and same humming noise. Could it be the shielding paint itself? Anyway to test this? Like a ground jumper from the jack to one of the pots possibly? Thanks in advance for any suggestions. Mark |